help with steering wheel
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help with steering wheel
I could use some help again. I finally got the brush for my horn and am having some problems with the 'new' steering wheel / steering shaft / Horn button.
When I tighten the steering wheel so the inner brush contacts the contact ring on the steering wheel (and the wheel doesn't wobble), the steering shaft sticks out to far to allow the steering horn button to be installed.
I saw on a 1965 mustang website, that you can loosen the two bolts on the column and pull the column up to “close” the space between the wheel and the trim ring of the directionals. Can this be done with a 1966 F100 ?
Would this move the steering column rearward allowing more room between the metal plate in the horn button and the steering shaft. The metal plate can't touch the shaft or the circuitry for the horn is completed. Washer spacers seem to be the only other solution
I'm asking since I am recreating the steering wheel/horn and have not seen a working one – Yet.
I do know the steering box was replaced by to previous owner and he also had installed a “racing” type wheel installed. There was no horn installed on the racing steering wheel. (A simple button on the dash) Perhaps the column has been repositioned.
Any help appreciated
Scott
When I tighten the steering wheel so the inner brush contacts the contact ring on the steering wheel (and the wheel doesn't wobble), the steering shaft sticks out to far to allow the steering horn button to be installed.
I saw on a 1965 mustang website, that you can loosen the two bolts on the column and pull the column up to “close” the space between the wheel and the trim ring of the directionals. Can this be done with a 1966 F100 ?
Would this move the steering column rearward allowing more room between the metal plate in the horn button and the steering shaft. The metal plate can't touch the shaft or the circuitry for the horn is completed. Washer spacers seem to be the only other solution
I'm asking since I am recreating the steering wheel/horn and have not seen a working one – Yet.
I do know the steering box was replaced by to previous owner and he also had installed a “racing” type wheel installed. There was no horn installed on the racing steering wheel. (A simple button on the dash) Perhaps the column has been repositioned.
Any help appreciated
Scott
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
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From: Glendale Arizona
There is one additional bolt need to be undone on the outside of the firewall. The clamp need to be released to slide the column. 1/16" is spec for gap. If you can not make the adjustment fix your cab mounts.
Garbz
Garbz
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Thanks Garbz, I really appreciate the lessons. I am always amazed att the knowledge this board has at the tip of their tongue.
I took the wheel off a F100 in the junkyard. The nut is thinner than the one on my existing shaft, Both have been peened and tough to start the thread. Is one of these the proper one or does it not matter? I would like to get a new one.
Also there was a large diameter spring under the horn button on the “new” wheel that does not show in the ford parts illustration posted here, but appears in parts catalogs. It seems to work with or without it Is it necessary? Is this a change by year?
I took the wheel off a F100 in the junkyard. The nut is thinner than the one on my existing shaft, Both have been peened and tough to start the thread. Is one of these the proper one or does it not matter? I would like to get a new one.
Also there was a large diameter spring under the horn button on the “new” wheel that does not show in the ford parts illustration posted here, but appears in parts catalogs. It seems to work with or without it Is it necessary? Is this a change by year?
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Well It does close the gap - HOWEVER the shaft is fixed and the horn button will not clear the end of the shaft when the bolt is tightened enough to hold the steering wheel firm.
This must be a cab location problem? Is this something a newby by himself can take on? It looks like I need almost 1/2"
I'm not even sure if this is the right shaft. Short of 1. trimming (cutting) the end of the shaft or 2. drilling a clearance hole in the plate under the horn button and giving up on getting the horn to work
This must be a cab location problem? Is this something a newby by himself can take on? It looks like I need almost 1/2"
I'm not even sure if this is the right shaft. Short of 1. trimming (cutting) the end of the shaft or 2. drilling a clearance hole in the plate under the horn button and giving up on getting the horn to work
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
350983-S .. Steering Wheel Nut / 5/8" -18 / Obsolete
1961/67 F100/250.
TISON MOTOR CO. in Estill SC has 2 = 803-625-2551.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 147 = 800-543-4959.
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1961/66 F100/250 2WD; 1967/70 F100/350: Two different Horn Blowing Springs:
CODF-13A807-B .. Use with Horn Button / GREEN SALES has 3.
CODZ-13A807-B .. Use with Horn Ring / TISON has 10 / GREEN SALES has 361.
1961/67 F100/250.
TISON MOTOR CO. in Estill SC has 2 = 803-625-2551.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 147 = 800-543-4959.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1961/66 F100/250 2WD; 1967/70 F100/350: Two different Horn Blowing Springs:
CODF-13A807-B .. Use with Horn Button / GREEN SALES has 3.
CODZ-13A807-B .. Use with Horn Ring / TISON has 10 / GREEN SALES has 361.
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Thanks ND. I have the spring here - its just not shown on the illustration you posted and I was not sure if its required. I have two nuts -just don't know which is correct (and why the hardware store won't work). one is 5/16" thick and one is 1/2" thick.
I guess I'm just frustrated over having the parts and can't get it to work all due to lack of knowledge and ability
I guess I'm just frustrated over having the parts and can't get it to work all due to lack of knowledge and ability
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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I think so Shadow, it came off the on in the junkyard. IF hornring is 13A800 Part 13A808 is the one that hits the shaft. Its like the splined shaft that's smooth and tapered - slides to far down the shaft when tightened ( don't know which part it is -looks to be molded into the wheel 13318?)
I'm trying to shim the shaft with tape - but it's such a hack thing to do
I'm trying to shim the shaft with tape - but it's such a hack thing to do
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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Could you have a ps column with a manual steering shaft in it?
The ps column is shorter, the 4 speed column is the same length as the ps column.
If you somehow got a manual steering shaft in a ps column it will be to long.
Who knows what may have happened in 45+ years and multiple owners?
The ps column is shorter, the 4 speed column is the same length as the ps column.
If you somehow got a manual steering shaft in a ps column it will be to long.
Who knows what may have happened in 45+ years and multiple owners?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
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From: Glendale Arizona
Look at the rag joint and make sure it is correctly mounted and not binding on the steering box flange or the Steering shaft flange. It should sandwich the rubber and the posts should not touch the flanges when installed.
The steering wheel should only be seated tight on the splines with the nut not drug down hard bottoming it.
There was a third part to the column that i failed to mention there is a collar on the steering shaft that slides up and down between the lower flange and the lower column bearing. This is what retains the shaft in the correct relation to the Column buy pre loading the lower bearing against the upper internal spring.
It will look similar to this.
Garbz
The steering wheel should only be seated tight on the splines with the nut not drug down hard bottoming it.
There was a third part to the column that i failed to mention there is a collar on the steering shaft that slides up and down between the lower flange and the lower column bearing. This is what retains the shaft in the correct relation to the Column buy pre loading the lower bearing against the upper internal spring.
It will look similar to this.
Garbz
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1965/68 F100/250 2WD & 1967/68 F350.
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The rag joint seems ok and no binding. I'm not sure why you mentioned the collar since I can't see how that would affect the length of the shaft. maybe I'm missing the point.
The steering wheel must have been tightened too much sometimes in its life and rides down to the point of the splines indenting the tapered point of the shaft. If I Shim the tapered portion of the shaft the wheel fits better, yet the wheel will have to move back almost 3/8" for the shaft end to clear the plate under the horn button.
btw - the "new" steering box has 2 bolts nutted with a lock washer and no nut. Every time I look at something - something else is missing. what's missing?
The steering wheel must have been tightened too much sometimes in its life and rides down to the point of the splines indenting the tapered point of the shaft. If I Shim the tapered portion of the shaft the wheel fits better, yet the wheel will have to move back almost 3/8" for the shaft end to clear the plate under the horn button.
btw - the "new" steering box has 2 bolts nutted with a lock washer and no nut. Every time I look at something - something else is missing. what's missing?
