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Time for a compression test. A fouled plug will lead you to the cylinder with the problems.
Could be a cracked piston. But it's Time for a fixin it.. The longer you keep driving it the worse things will get....
orich
Here, the knocking is much more prominent. You can here it both at idle and running speed. You'll notice that the oil pressure and operating temperature are both very low, but I don't know that the gauges are even working at this point. 1971 F250 390 Knocking 2 - YouTube
Finally, here we are smoking up a storm. I can't decide if this is white or a grey-ish colored. There was a fair bit of condensation dripping out either tailpipe but it had mostly dried up by the time I got to filming it. 1971 F250 390 Exhaust Smoke - YouTube
The gentleman I bought her off of had had the top end rebuilt a few years ago by a shop down in Tucson; I do have receipts. According to him, after the rebuild she was driven up to Phoenix and left to sitting for the last two years, being fired up once a month and driven around the block on occasion.
I had hope the piston ring might just be stuck so I soaked each cylinder with Mystery Oil for a week, which actually seemed to help... for about a week. I've know the oil rings can be installed upside down on occasion and that such a circumstance would cause blow-by but would it cause knocking? I don't imagine it would.
Im thinking valve train issue, because of the speed of the ticking. With it running you could undo one plug wire at a time, if it's a rod when you get to the one knocking it will stop.
It sound like the valve train: I have seen a few times over the yrs. where a exh. seat has worked loose and starts wobble as it opens & closes messing up the head.
All because a shop over cut the exh. seat bore too large, And once it heats up became loose enough for a little movement until it breaks the valve head off and messes up the cylinder walls & cracks the top of the piston. Then its time for a whole engine replacement at worse..
So best not to start it or drive it.. You got something wrong and you'll find it by doing an inspection orich
A loose valve seat would make constant noise, am I right? So far, it's only been after she's driven a ways. I have the valve covers off and so far everything looks normal. I'll dig deeper and see what I find.
A weak lifter with real dirty oil can do that also, put in some Sea Foam into the oil and let it idle so it won't pound and see it that help loosen or free it up. Or use some oil engine flush will do the same thing. If oil is supper dirty it maybe help also to change.
I, had a 90 bronco II v6 with 244,000 mile on it and would have to run some oil flush in it once in a while too keep it happy if not it would sound almost like your's..
orich
The oil was changed only three or four months ago. I had supplemented a quart of oil with MMO. I'm planning on doing an oil change tomorrow to check for the usual signs of damage.
I visually inspected the valve train today, starting it with the covers off. Nothing really caught my eye. I took some pictures and a video but I'm not sure if much of it helps.
The spark plugs were changed only a month or two ago.
Here she is running and knocking real bad. The video without the valve covers won't load, but I can tell you that it sounds more like it's coming from the head or oil pan. Disregard the smoke; it's just oil burning off that managed to get everywhere without the covers on.
Non adjustable rockers. I would run them in order and see if you have one or more that have excessive lash. Or at least watch each one as you bump motor over and see if they all move the same. Then check to see if each valve tip is at the same height.
Does not sound like rods, too metallic like. Definitely valve train issue.
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