I'm saving for headers and am considering Stan's or FPA's for my FE powered, 2wd, 1970 F250. I like their design etc. Is anyone using these and can you remove and replace a stock type starter without a lot of hassle?

 

Maybe you should post a link or a p/n for them.. What your asking us should be noted on the web site.
If not any info there then ask customer service theses questions.

Most header building company's today don't seem to give a damn if you can remover it or not..
This is why theirs mini starters it seems to be there way of thinking:.. orich

 

Hey Aby. I found this old reply to another thread. I used the search engine top of this page.

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Post Fiend
2010 Mazda Mazda5
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</TD><TD width="100%"></TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,859




</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD id=td_post_2278860 class=alt1><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- message -->Quote:
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by 66 Ranger
I'm in the process of building a 428 for my pickup. Planning on using the Edelbrock aluminum heads. Need to know if anyone makes headers for this application that fit so that you can get the starter on and off without a big hassle. Needs to clear clutch linkage, too. Anybody had any experience?? Tried 'search' but didn't get a whole lot of information. Thanks.

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For a very high quality product, check with Stan at FPA (Ford Powertrain Applications). They are not cheap, but they know what they are doing regarding fitment and construction quality).

see mine here: http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...FPAheaders.htm
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Thanks for the help.

 

I bought their Alternator bracket what a disappointment that was over their workmanship for the money. Sharp edges with a rough cut, Had to dress it up with a file. That turned me off from buying any headers from them and went with the Sanderson's headers. I chose the best one's as they don't use any gaskets just rtv.

Back in the 70's header Co's gave better info for fitment as to removing starter. I had a pair of long tube headers that lasted 20 yrs sold by Sear's made by Black Jack. and, I could remove the stock starter. One starter replacement in 20 yrs.

The #4 tube wrapped around the back by the bell housing bolts. This made it ez to pull the starter only had to deal with #3 cyl tube that was close to the frame motor mount. The #1&2cyl. tubes went in front of the motor mount. Wish they still made those type.. orich

 

I've talked to both FPA & Stan's and like most headers theirs also have to be loosened to remove the starter. They both said even though the headers are close to the start you don't have to run a starter heat shield IF the headers are ceramic coated. They don't run on their own personal vehicles. The both agree it want hurt anything to run one.

Several guys on the Dentside forum like Stan's and the Mustang & Galaxie crowd like the FPA header. Both are tri-y design. Some say Stan's makes them for FPA. To add to the confusion FPA is ran by Stan Johnson & Stan's is ran by Stan Fuller. I forgot to ask them both if one makes headers for the other one. Their specs are identical and prices are close. They both have been very pleasant to talk with and very helpful. Stan at Stan's really likes to talk.

I have always planned to buy Sandersons when I got the cash but the idea of the tri-y design got my attention. Supposedly they make more low end torque than any other design. I use my truck to tow a camper and stay well below 3000 rpm.

I'll keep saving my money and maybe in a couple months I'll be ready for one or the other.

Stan's
Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.

FPA
Ford Powertrain Applications

 

Some info from Stan's website on the FAQ page.

" A 4 tube header makes its horsepower and torque increases above 5500 RPM. A "TRI Y" header makes its increases from an idle to approximately 5500 RPM. If your vehicle is a "street" vehicle or "off road" a "TRI Y" will work the best. If you race only and keep the RPM above 5500, a 4 tube header is best. If you drive on the street and off road but occasionally race your vehicle, then you can decide which header you need by how much you use it doing either. Some times on certain cars, like muscle cars, a 4 tube header looks more performance able and most people use a 4 tube on these even if a "TRI Y" will work better. "

 

I don't know how these measure up to the other you have listed but these have been around for many yrs.. If were designed like Sanderson's not using gasket I would gone with these listed in the link below... orich

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390719240503?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648

 

Well I'm getting an early birthday present. I found a guy near me in Atlanta that had a set of Stan's headers he never installed. His truck came with leaky headers and after he fixed the flange gasket he decided it wasn't worth it to change them. The Stan's set is new in the box and will be delivered today. I paid him $500 including shipping for them. These are uncoated so it would have cost me just over $600 if I bought them from Stan due to shipping. I'm going to have them ceramic coated here locally.

The headers come with bolts but I've read about of few of you using the Stage 8 header bolts. Those look nice but will they still work with my setup because one of my 390 heads have been drilled out due broken manifold bolts. I have nuts & bolts on one side and just bolts on the other. I guess I can order the State 8 a little longer to fit the drilled head??

 

Me personally, I'd use a stud and nut in that drilled out hole and the Stage 8's in the rest. I swear by them. Out of all the vehicles I had headers on I NEVER had to change a blown out header gasket. Stage 8's in every one of them. They even had a allen wrench hole in the hex head of them to ease installation. They are expensive but well worth it IMHO.

 

That sounds like a good idea. I have 4 holes on one head that are drilled out.

These headers come with flange gaskets that Stan prefers but I don't know what brand they are. What flange gaskets do you guys prefer with headers? The collectors are ball and socket so I don't have to worry about gasets there.

 

I have heard nothing but good from Stans headers. You wont be disappointed, they fit and clear. I think L and L headers are one of the best made, but there is fitment issues for some people, especially for the 460. You are going to be fine.

 

I got the headers back from the coating shop here. These are coated with Ceracote Titanium. I hope to get them installed in the next couple weeks. I'll post more pictures when I'm done.

 

I finally got the headers installed. The drivers side was a breeze to install. The passenger side needed either the frame slightly clearenced or one tube dented. I chose to grind a relief in the top of the frame and I have no problems. Now to remove the stock starter that header has to come loose but not completely removed. I like them. I think maybe the Sanderson shorty's would be easier to install with the engine in the truck but I wanted this tri-y design that Stan's have.

 

Congrats. How's the exhaust tone now? Feel like a lot more power?