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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 286
Likes: 8
From: Chandler, AZ
No worries Dave - none at all. When installing the new gauge set up with voltmeter we tried hard to actually leave as much of the original wiring intact as possible. Who knows, maybe the person I or my son sell the truck to in 20 years might want to migrate back to original. Thus, the original wiring for the ammeter is still floating around under the dash and that explains why removing the junction box under the hood caused problems. It was an easy fix and we do not plan to make any changes under the dash. Leave well enough alone 
We are about to install a new set of modern gauges in our 66 Mustang and we will follow the same philosophy - leave as much of the original wiring intact as possible.
The first two pictures you provide look like the same pages in my 66 wiring diagram manual. I like the third though - nice and simple. Thank goodness my son has an aptitude for electricity or I would be starting fires under the dash and hood all the time
We are about to install a new set of modern gauges in our 66 Mustang and we will follow the same philosophy - leave as much of the original wiring intact as possible. The first two pictures you provide look like the same pages in my 66 wiring diagram manual. I like the third though - nice and simple. Thank goodness my son has an aptitude for electricity or I would be starting fires under the dash and hood all the time
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 968
Likes: 5
From: Corbett, Oregon
I apologize if I wasn't clear enough in my post #11.
65F250CS:
If you have removed the ammeter you should be able to remove the wiring as well, since it is ammeter specific. Follow the pair of large (#8-#6) wires from the terminal block / starter relay. They will run across the firewall and into the cab in their own loom (if still original). There is a wire from the oil pressure sending unit for the oil gauge that will join the loom at the rear of the engine.
After removing the two large wires you will have one wire left on the terminal block. Re-connect this wire to the battery (+) side of the starter solenold. This wire is the battery (+) wire from the alternator. That's it. The wiring is gone, the terminal block is no longer an issue and everything should work as henry designed it.
RC
Sorry for any confusion. Glad you got yhe problem fixed.
Roger
65F250CS:
If you have removed the ammeter you should be able to remove the wiring as well, since it is ammeter specific. Follow the pair of large (#8-#6) wires from the terminal block / starter relay. They will run across the firewall and into the cab in their own loom (if still original). There is a wire from the oil pressure sending unit for the oil gauge that will join the loom at the rear of the engine.
After removing the two large wires you will have one wire left on the terminal block. Re-connect this wire to the battery (+) side of the starter solenold. This wire is the battery (+) wire from the alternator. That's it. The wiring is gone, the terminal block is no longer an issue and everything should work as henry designed it.
RC
Sorry for any confusion. Glad you got yhe problem fixed.
Roger
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