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Rear differential - Replace or rebuild

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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #16  
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Unless you drive in a straight line and never turn the spider gears will be moving. Shock load is what typically kills anything in a diff. If it were mine I would, just rebuild it including the bearings. Don't be afraid of a used carrier if you need one. Remember don't mix and match bearings and races.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 12:17 AM
  #17  
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:23 AM
  #18  
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I agree with the not broke no fix crowd.

HOWEVER if you do decide to rebuild don't bet the farm on your existing housing even being rebuildable

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s....php?t=1269163
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 08:13 AM
  #19  
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yes that is also true, if the carrier races have spun a bit due to low preload it will chew the housing up and then it is junk
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
If it is quiet I would forget about it. Those spiders went through some kind of trauma because they rarely give any problems. They will last a long time without any more trauma.
Originally Posted by EXv10
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
I agree with Brent, did you notice any driveability concerns? Was it making any noise, or was this all done because you saw some metal in the oil?

If it runs and drives just fine why bother fixing what isn't broken? These things last a LONG time, and you could have lots of time left on yours.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #21  
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Guy's if there is a bunch of metal in there he needs to find out where it came from and repair it..If you let it go it could become a major problem. It could take out all the bearings if he were to let it go.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #22  
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It was not making any loud noises except for a little amount of what I would call a groan with some floor vibration when I would let off the pedal on the highway.

Honestly I don't tow often with the truck (it is more truck than I need) and if I wasn't about to move across the country in a few months I would just keep driving on it until it failed. Now that I have seen the metal bits in the oil I don't trust it to take me, my trailer, and my new bride across the US. I'm not tight on money so I am willing to pay extra for piece of mind.

The mechanic reports about two grand for the jasper differential and about 300 in labor to install. I'm going to go that route for the piece of mind that the warranty brings. I know nothing will guarantee that I won't have the same out different problem on the drive but I think this is my best bet.

Good idea on having the backing plates checked. I'm also going to have him drill and tap a grease fitting on the slip yoke for easier greasing. Any other ideas on things to do now that he has things apart back there? Thanks again
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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Good time to go through the rear brakes properly . U joints good ?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #24  
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Rear shocks also ?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #25  
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Well if he is going with a reman rear axle the brake will be gone threw I am sure. I am curious though, does the new axle come with brakes? I would assume not but you never know.

Good time to add/remove or change rear springs.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 03:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Well if he is going with a reman rear axle the brake will be gone threw I am sure. I am curious though, does the new axle come with brakes? I would assume not but you never know.
I have installed Many Jasper rear ends .None have ever come with brake assemblies installed .
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #27  
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Well everyone, just got the truck back. Cost was 2300 for the rear end, 300 for labor, and 250 in taxes. No small ammount but at least it is back together and driving smoothly. Parking break looked fine but it's time to change the rear brakes. Thanks to everyone again for the input. I do like having the piece of mind of the 3 year 100k mile warranty is always there if I need it.
 
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