If you do that, you will be back where you were I am thinking. The factory set these engines up with very little initial timing, and lots of vacuum advance timing. You are getting rid of all this, and have set the timing high on the initial, you need less on the vacuum. I think you need to go to summit or jegs and see if you can find a aftermarket vacuum advance, install it, and then adjust it. You won't have as much vacuum advance as the factory unit did, which is what I am thinking you want.

If you get your timing light setup, and watch the timing mark while you put the vacuum advance hose on and off a manifold vacuum port, the timing mark will move way up each time you do this. If it does, the unit you have now is working, which is why I think a rebuilt one is going to do the same thing.

 

I put a new distributer on today, adjusted to 10. and i have the same problem. Im considering taking this carb off and getting another.

 

What evidence leads you to believe you need a new carb?

 

Idk it seems i have replaced the parts that could be causing these symptoms And it leaves the carburetor. Ive been wrong before though.;-)

Forgive me if this sounds dumb, but I can have the truck idling good and when i start reving the motor i get some stumbling erratic timing, like the timing is out. While i have the engine reved up (not exactly sure what rpm, say around 2000) i remove the vacuum line from the carburetor running to the VA bulb the stumble subsides.
Could the carb be pulling to much vacuum?
And yes i have it on the correct vacuum port.

A mechanic friend is telling me i have a weak cylinder or a bad valve seat. Im going to do a compression test on the cylinders today.

 

Apparently you missed what I said in post #16. I think your only solution is to leave the dist vacuum line disconnected, or go buy an adjustable vacuum advance unit.

 

Ok i might end up doing that Franklin2.

Just to update and catch everyone up here is what ive replaced and done so far.

Gas tank, lines, filter, pump, Edelbrock 600(this is #3 as of last week) accel coil, accel wires, plugs,gapped the plugs correctly, new distributor assembly. I have taken the ignition module to oriellys and they tested it 5 times and said it was perfectly fine.

I have removed and reinstalled the distributor multiple times to ensure proper placement. My wires are on the correct way and direction /counter clockwise. Also i checked compression on all cylinders ranging from 95 on low to 115.

I can start the truck let it warm up and it idles ok. Has a slight miss, really have to listen for it. But non the less it idles. Set my timing with the vac plugged off. Everything hooked up engine idling i jump in put it in drive and it wa ts to die.
Adjust idle up a bit, same thing.
If i put it in drive or reverse and power brake it, it starts missing bad, and if i give it even more gas to the point where the tires almost start to spin it misses and sometimes backfires threw the carb.

Ive read back firing usually a sign of timing so ive adjusted the timing both way not much success.

Also id like to note ive done this with the VA capped off and the timing advanced.

Ive been told that my timing could have jumped a tooth and that it would idle but not perform under a load.

Ive also been told my cam could have a flat lob.

And also my engine is junk.
Not trying to make a performance machine, just need to drive it to work.

 

The way it misses bad under a load makes me think something is fouled on the ignition end.

 

Thats the way im leaning.im just at a loss some what as to what part.

 

See your post above. I thought this got you going? You seem to be following rabbit trails with all this other stuff. I would concentrate on what you found in the above quote.

 

IDK, Check firing order? #'s 7 and 8 are easy to cross...

 

Good idea Brnfree!

 

Something I have seen happen is people try and use Chevy's cylinder-numbering scheme when installing plug wires... Ford does it entirely differently....

 

I will have to admit, Chevy's way makes sense, Ford's doesn't.