Water temp gauge
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Water temp gauge
So along with all the other issues I am having with my truck the water temp gauge is on the fritz. It has been going on for a while but now it has gotten bad to the point it bothers me. Pulled CM codes and it looks as though it is a short in the cluster. I figured as such seing as the park brake indicator light doesn't always work. When it does work it shows a normal reading so I'm. It too concerned about over heating but I am planning on swapping over to e-fans soon and wanted a working gauge but don't have the time to tear the dash apart to try to repair the stock one. Can I wire an aftermarket gauge in to the factory sending unit? I would think so but wasn't sure. Would that clear up the CM codes as well?
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Yea I've tried to clear the codes but CM codes usually won't clear until the problem is fixed or they just come back. From what I gather there is a short in my cluster and I really don't want to have to tear into the dash if I don't have to. If I have to open it to hook up the new gauge I will just get the factory one fixed
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Exactly what CM codes are you getting? Post them up.
Are you aware that code reading should be performed with the engine at operating temp to prevent false temp sensor codes(air and water)?
The dash temp gauge has it's own sender completely separate from the computer sensor, on V8's it found just behind injector #5, on the I6 it's down on the side of the block under the intake, and in all cases there is a single wire pushed on over a stud in the top of the sensor.
Are you aware that code reading should be performed with the engine at operating temp to prevent false temp sensor codes(air and water)?
The dash temp gauge has it's own sender completely separate from the computer sensor, on V8's it found just behind injector #5, on the I6 it's down on the side of the block under the intake, and in all cases there is a single wire pushed on over a stud in the top of the sensor.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
There are no CM codes for the cluster temp gauge.
As stated above the temp gauge in the cluster is not related to the PCM Computer. The PCM computer has its own sensor for water temp. The gauge has its on temp sender.
As stated above the temp gauge in the cluster is not related to the PCM Computer. The PCM computer has its own sensor for water temp. The gauge has its on temp sender.
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Well the code is for a circuit failure in the coolant temp sensor or sending unit. The gauge was working intermittently but now it is pretty much dead. I have them wrote down somewhere or I can pull them again later and post them up
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That would be for the ECT in the thermostat housing so sounds like you have 2 problems.
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Finally got around to re pulling the codes they are as follows
117-Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Lower Than Minimum Voltage
233-Spark Angle Pulse Width Malfunction(what the deuce does that mean?????)
533-Diagnostic Connector Link Or Electronic Instrument Cluster Circuit Malfunction
and a 7 indicating a problem with cylinder#7 i am going to most likely sort out tomorrow. oil looks good, not losing coolant, no smoke coming from anywhere, and decent power but leaving something to be desired so i assume either bad plug, plug wire, or injector. gonna pull compression to just be safe
like i previously stated i have been having issues with the temp gauge and the park brake indicator light working intermittently so given my symptoms what is my best course of action?
and i did pull them after driving home from work which is a 30-35 minute drive over 20 miles so i assume it would be up to normal operating temperature by then
117-Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Lower Than Minimum Voltage
233-Spark Angle Pulse Width Malfunction(what the deuce does that mean?????)
533-Diagnostic Connector Link Or Electronic Instrument Cluster Circuit Malfunction
and a 7 indicating a problem with cylinder#7 i am going to most likely sort out tomorrow. oil looks good, not losing coolant, no smoke coming from anywhere, and decent power but leaving something to be desired so i assume either bad plug, plug wire, or injector. gonna pull compression to just be safe
like i previously stated i have been having issues with the temp gauge and the park brake indicator light working intermittently so given my symptoms what is my best course of action?
and i did pull them after driving home from work which is a 30-35 minute drive over 20 miles so i assume it would be up to normal operating temperature by then
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
117 sounds like a bad wire (open).
There is no 233 code.
DTC 533 indicates a Data Communication Link to Electronic Instrument Cluster circuit failure.
Do you have a Electronic Instrument Cluster?
Neither code seems right.
If these are the codes you got then I think I would change the PCM Computer.
There is no 233 code.
DTC 533 indicates a Data Communication Link to Electronic Instrument Cluster circuit failure.
Do you have a Electronic Instrument Cluster?
Neither code seems right.
If these are the codes you got then I think I would change the PCM Computer.
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I may do that. Been throwing that idea around for a while seeing as how I keep trying to fix problems and am running around in circles. If it wasn't for having the E4OD I would just take it back to carb and make things simpler. My truck is a 95 and I have a 90 Bronco with the same drivetrain. Would the PCM be interchangeable? I know there are different calibration codes with different part numbers but I don't know which ones can swap with what.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
No the computers are not interchangeable.
The 1990 is a push-start computer and the 1995 is a CCD computer.
They also take a different type of ICM to work with the different computers.
The two trucks also have different wiring under the hood to work with the push-start & CCD.
The 1990 is a push-start computer and the 1995 is a CCD computer.
They also take a different type of ICM to work with the different computers.
The two trucks also have different wiring under the hood to work with the push-start & CCD.
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am I correct in the change with the icm was in 92 with the body style change along with the other changes stated? So as long as I pull one from a 92-95 with a V8 and an E4OD trans I should be good right? Local pull your own JY runs 60ish for a PCM. I was planning a MAF conversion soon once I could afford the harness so I may wait till then to do anything.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mexico, Missouri
Need.a '94 and up w/E4OD. If there is a black ICM module on the fenderwheel, your good. Push-start, Grey module, CCD, Black module.
Also, the '95 is MAF. Unless I've misread something.
Also, the '95 is MAF. Unless I've misread something.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
You need a 95 computer to work with the E4OD solenoid pack. 1994 E4OD has the damper diodes on the solenoid pack inside the E4OD and in 1995 they were moved to inside the PCM Computer.
They went to CCD in 1994 as stated above.
If you have E4OD then I would not think you have a 5.0L engine in 1995.
The 5.8L & 7.5L were not MAF in 1995 unless it was from California.
Being the same engine as a 1990 Bronco I would not think that you have a 4.9L.
They went to CCD in 1994 as stated above.
If you have E4OD then I would not think you have a 5.0L engine in 1995.
The 5.8L & 7.5L were not MAF in 1995 unless it was from California.
Being the same engine as a 1990 Bronco I would not think that you have a 4.9L.