Weatherstripping issues!!!!
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Senior User
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Weatherstripping issues!!!!
So I am new to this forum. I am not new Ford trucks. I have done new weatherstripping on a 78 f150 with no issues. I now replaced the weatherstripping on my 65. Looked great, i believe i did it right. I put the doors initially back in their original place (looking at the paint marks on the door hinge bracket). I closed the door ( passenger side, but having issues with both) to find at the top front I was not getting contact. Also at the back of the door below the latch. (This is where the two ends of the seal meet.) The seal is much skinnier on the bottom "half". I have attempted adjusting everything possible(door latch, door hinges on cab and door) with no luck. Am I losing it or did this weatherstripping kit set me up to fail (macs antique auto parts $60) ??? also I would love to hear the magic trick to making this work instantly. Otherwise I will be pulling it off again to buy either a better kit or a better functioning universal kit. Please help me out here guys!!! All input appreciated
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,014
Likes: 1,565
From: Seattle
Welcome to FTE
Sounds like you have the seam in the back under the latch but don't Mac's instructions say to start at the front bottom of the door?
http://macsautoparts.com/images/art/C1TZ-8120530-PR.pdf
NOTE:
Sounds like you have the seam in the back under the latch but don't Mac's instructions say to start at the front bottom of the door?
http://macsautoparts.com/images/art/C1TZ-8120530-PR.pdf
NOTE:
DO NOT apply adhesive until Step # 2
STEP # 1: Starting at the bottom front of door with the door seal, place the first plastic button into position and also the remaining ten into holes along the bottom then continue up the rear (lock side) and across the top and down the front (windshield side) to the lower (hinge side) front. While doing this be careful not to pull and stretch the rubber. The shorter length of rubber from the first plastic button will then be put in position up the hinge side of door. Trim off extra rubber where the joints in located.
STEP # 2: You are now ready to apply the adhesive and bond the rubber door seal to the door panel.
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I thought I had everything in my last post. I forgot to mention that I had to remove some from the back end. Roughly 3 inches to get the right fit. You are correct about the intended seam being in front. And the part was not made by dennis carpenter. Is that a manufacturer or distributor?? I would love to find a company that sells only quality parts. I am finding myself returning more and more junk parts that belong in a land fill. Thanks for the quick responses.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,014
Likes: 1,565
From: Seattle
Dennis Carpenter is a manufacturer. Now run by his son Daniel.
Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts
They have a good reputation for quality.
I see their door seal kits are 10% off starting today until the 23rd for online orders.
Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts
They have a good reputation for quality.
I see their door seal kits are 10% off starting today until the 23rd for online orders.
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My hinges and latches seem to be in good shape. It seems like the doors are not seating deep enough. Does this sound right? Is there an adjustment that I have overlooked? I have experience here, I just havent had this issue before. I there a part to buy that can fix this? Everything was fine ( minus weatherstripping ) before I started. I am lost at this point. I get the door to line up and sit flush and I just don't get a seal. I can't think of anything that went bad to cause this. Now thinking it is operator error. Could the new weatherstripping be bowing the door? Any thoughts are appreciated.
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 603
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From: San Antonio
A general comment: Unless you live in South Texas or Florida, you will have better luck installing the weather stripping in the summer when it is warm the rubber is softer. I sound like you may have some fitment issues as well.
I have DC seals and they fit prefect.
I have DC seals and they fit prefect.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
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I used Dennis Carpenters seals. Worked perfect. Super soft and fit nice. After doing body work on newer vehicles for 30 years, I was worried about getting seals to work at all on the old truck, but I am pleased and would recommend them to everyone..
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I appreciate the input from all. I just cooked up my jimmy-rig plan. Basically a spacer behind the gaps. just add some more stripping a couple places. Maybe in the future I will attempt it again, but for now I am weatherstripped out.
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After lots of hair pulling - RESOLVED
I tried before without success. But I gave it another shot. I moved the door catch outwards, so the ratchet mechanism clicks twice. I had to slam it a little harder than I wanted but they are settling in alright.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 370
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From: Near Nashille, TN
I had the same issue with mine. They'll compress in a few days to where you won't have to slam the door. But if it's still an issue in a few weeks, you can adjust the striker plate to 'loosen' the door a little.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
Welcome to FTE
Sounds like you have the seam in the back under the latch but don't Mac's instructions say to start at the front bottom of the door?
PR</acronym>.pdf
NOTE:
Sounds like you have the seam in the back under the latch but don't Mac's instructions say to start at the front bottom of the door?
PR</acronym>.pdf
NOTE:
DO NOT apply adhesive until Step # 2
STEP # 1: Starting at the bottom front of door with the door seal, place the first plastic button into position and also the remaining ten into holes along the bottom then continue up the rear (lock side) and across the top and down the front (windshield side) to the lower (hinge side) front. While doing this be careful not to pull and stretch the rubber. The shorter length of rubber from the first plastic button will then be put in position up the hinge side of door. Trim off extra rubber where the joints in located.
STEP # 2: You are now ready to apply the adhesive and bond the rubber door seal to the door panel.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
My DC parts were absolutely unacceptable. They are still in there only because I invested so much work to install them. It took two experienced Ford guys to put in the vent window rubbers and afterward we could see right through the truck. The door rubbers were 6" too long. I'll stop here for now.
Eric
Eric