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Thank You!!! Put the switch in and got it running after putting gas in the rear tank. While I had it running I dropped the plow and putting it in the garage out of the weather. Went to restart and it would barely turn over. The only part I haven't replaced is the starter. Could the starter be bad?
Went to restart and it would barely turn over. The only part I haven't replaced is the starter. Could the starter be bad?
Maybe, a starter can drag on the field coils if the bushing are bad when it is warm, some can do this cold also. Could also be the battery or a bad connection with the large cables and there ends.
Here's an up date. Took the starter to Autozone and it tested good but it had a broken tooth so ended up getting a new one as well as replacing the solenoid. Hooked everything up truck started and ran great. I left it idle for about a 1/2 hour or so then it died. It's not getting any fuel pressure at the rail. I know the fuel tank selector valve is bad. I'm in the middle of changing that now. All the fuel pumps are new and a new fuel filter, I'm getting power in and out of the selector switch, so my only guess would be this valve.
OK here's the latest. Replaced the fuel tank selector valve. Took the truck for a test ride and it died. Had power coming out of the fuel tank selector switch to the pumps but the pumps wouldn't run. Is it possible I got the wrong pumps for in the tank? It seems they run for awhile then shut down. When running the fuel pressure at the rail was around 34. I did notice when it died that the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. Could all this be computer related?
If it was computer related you should get a code in CM.
Bad computers have been know to run the pumps for a while and then shut them off.
Pumps have also been known to run for a while and quit.
Was the pump on the frame still running when the pumps quit in the tanks?
Note that the computer will turn off all of the fuel pumps one second after the engine dies. This is normal.
That said you may also have a PIP train problem as why the engine quit. The PIP sensor has been known to run the engine for a while and then kill the engine.
If you have power going to the pumps and they are not running I would say you have bad pumps. Take them back and exchange them for another brand if you can from where you got them.
I'm think more towards the pumps myself. Cause I do have power going to the pumps out of the fuel tank selector switch. But what are the chances of both new pumps being bad?
I'm think more towards the pumps myself. Cause I do have power going to the pumps out of the fuel tank selector switch. But what are the chances of both new pumps being bad?
I have seen it on these post a few time, new pumps being bad that is.
The only other thing would a bad plug on top of the tanks.
When you say "I do have power going to the pumps out of the fuel tank selector switch" is this with pin #6 grounded and frame pump running?
Note that there is power at the selector switch going to the fuel gauge sending units in the tanks with the key on.
What wires are you checking?
I'm checking the wires coming out of the fuel tank selector switch to the low pressure pumps in the tanks. Tried both the red and the brown w/ white stripped wire and of course I switched between tanks to match the wire I was testing. When I turned the key on the test light came on then when out which is normal. The inline pump also came on and stopped as it should.
#6 was not grounded all tests were done inside the cab.
I think I put Airtex pumps in both tanks, what brand would you recommend? When I replace the pumps this time I'll change the plug also.
I am not sure anymore, I think they are all made in China with the same outfit.
I was just thinking maybe you could get a pump from a different run as I did not want to see you change them again.