I am trying to diagnose and fix trans issues for a 2003 7.3 F250.

I have done a good bit of forum research here, powerstrokearmy, and PSN. I have come up with some helpful info but nothing conclusive.

The truck:

-2003 7.3 f250

-410,000 miles

-Trans rebuilt approx. 3 years ago and Dayco triple disc converter installed

-Stock programming/no chip

-Beans injectors installed early this year and are stock size


Symptoms:

-When in D, the truck will not move and will roll back if on a grade.

-When manually shifted into 1st the truck will shudder and ease forward like it as if the friction clutches are not totally engaged.

-When in R there is a hesitation and then the trans slams hard into gear.

-The <acronym title="Over Drive">OD</acronym> light is NOT flashing.

-Will not start in D sometimes. Must be shifted into N.

-Trans fliud is at appropriate level and looks/smells fine.

Codes:

P0605: internal ctrl module ROM error - i think this could be related
P0733: Gear 3 incorrect ratio - almost certainly related
P0541: Manifold intake air heater - i do not think this is related
P0476: exh press ctrl valve perform - i do not think thisis related
P1780: trans ctrl sw out of range - armost certainly related

My plan:

-Clear all codes and attempt to drive. See what codes return.

-Calibrate the trans range sensor

-Check the TSS and OSS sensor and harness.

-Check all underhood connections.

-Check column shifter wiring for wear.

-Drop pan and look for clutch material.

-Flush with Cooler Cleaner, change filter and refill.

-Check <acronym title="Powertrain Control Module">PCM</acronym> grounds.

Ideas/other:

-Accumulator related?

-Sticky valve?

-Sticky solenoid?

-PCM not grounded well?

-PCM need reflash?

-VSS?

-If there is slippage, why is there no P1728?

I consider the shop that rebuilt the trans to be reputable. They rebuilt the <acronym title="Pre 99 Automatic 4 speed transmission">E4OD</acronym> in my 97 (mods in sig) in 2006, gave me a 3 year warranty and let me watch them rebuild it (just wanted to see how it was done). He upgraded the <acronym title="Pre 99 Automatic 4 speed transmission">E4OD</acronym> with <acronym title="99-2003 7.3L Super Duty Transmission">4R100</acronym> parts. I have since beat the crap out of the trans in my 97 with no issues whatsoever.

Please let me know if you see anything I should add/delete/modify in my current plan.
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There is NOTHING electronic that can do that. It MUST be a mechanical failure in the transmission.

Could be a low pressure problem. You should get a pressure gauge and find out what the trans pressures are doing.

Ditto.

Do you mean the engine will not start in D? That's good! It should only start in P or N. If you meant it won't start in P, then you need to see about tightening two bolts on the steering column that can loosen and cause this.

Lay under the dash looking up the steering column. There are two #30 Torx head bolts that hold the shift cable bracket to the shift tube.

I don't.
Usually indicates a problem with the direct clutch, which is also used for reverse.
I agree.
I agree.
No, it is not. It means you didn't press the OD OFF button while running self test, or the button isn't working. Either way it doesn't affect your problem.

Good.

Waste of time.

Waste of time.

Waste of time.

Good idea. See above where I described what to look for.

My guess is that you'll find the direct clutch friction material in the pan.

Won't fix it.

Waste of time.

No.

No.

No.

No.

No.

No.

It won't detect no drive engagement. The test doesn't do that.

 

Ok. Here is a an update. Took it to the trans shop that did the original rebuild. He pulled it apart and it turns out that the center support "exploded" (his term). The "explosion" took out the front drum and poluted the pump with debris. The center support was the upgraded roller bearing type. All the clutches look good. So, my questions are:
-As far as keeping this from happening aain in the future, I assume an beefier center support like the one from Suncoast. Is that the one to go with? Are there better options?
-Is beefing up the center support the solution or could thius failure be the result of some other part/system?

 

Upgrading the center support hub bearing is only part of the upgrade. The other part is to machine the center support and add a thin snap ring to help stabilize the assembly. It's somewhat common for the center support to have a lot of wear on the tabs where it rests against the case so machining the support down and adding the ring is a useful upgrade.

It looks like the SunCoast part has the upgraded hub, matching shaft, support ring and I presume a machined center support. If so, then it's a nice upgrade that you should consider. Also want to check the case to make sure it didn't get damaged when the center support failed.

 

Great trans info here guys TX Mark and Snakebite. The only thing one could possibly add to this is very general and directed at the guys who have never had a trans apart or dont have any idea on general operating theory. Fear of The Big Black Box.
Simply put its a big hydraulic pump with seals and sealing surfaces. Any leaks and you have a problem. The first step(S) should be a pressure check. If its a new school trans then a code check goes with that. Those two basic troubleshooting steps will generally find most if not all trans problems or at least narrow down the problem. Those results will generally tell you what the next step is. That will generally be ancillary part failure such as solenoids & senders etc...If that doesn't do it the next step is a tear down and inspection to find the carnage.