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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 03:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by socks262
Diesel #1 is the "regular" fuel. There's a whole sliding scale up here involving time of year and temperature that decides if/when you get a #1/#2 blend or straight #2. It's been -20 in the last month.

Thanks, Tom. I know the refineries here make the #2 as well, but I didn't know kerosene was in there. I suppose that makes sense. When it comes to which fuel you get, there's no choices. With that in mind, I'm trusting a refinery not to put something more corrosive into my truck. #2 is also about 60 cents more a gallon.
I think you have it backwards socks262. Diesel #2 is what you get during the spring & summer months. Don't want to hear about you stranded in Montana at -20F!!

During the winter months you'll see:

Diesel#2 treated with an anti-gel,
Diesel #1 (kerosene) or
a mix/blend of the two.

When you get below -10F it's best to fill up with #1 if the truck will be parked outside. When you use an additive be sure to add it in before the fuel hits it's cloud point - For #1 diesel the winter cloud point will typically be around -30°F to -40F. # 2 diesel fuel, the winter cloud point will typically be +15°F to +20F.

You will see a drop in MPG when you run #1 for two reasons. #1 has a lower BTU rating and we tend to let the truck idle/warm up much longer during the winter.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:06 PM
  #17  
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Here are a few pics so you can get an idea what happens to diesel fuel in the winter:

#2 Diesel when the temps dropped to -27, the paraffin wax crystals become large enough to drop out of the fuel and clog/gel your fuel.



in the center of this pic is #1 diesel at -5F, not even cloudy.



A 50/50 mix of #1 and #@ without any additive still showed som wax drop out at the bottom of the jar.......

 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:13 PM
  #18  
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The good thing is...........if you can get your truck in a garage for a few hours the wax will eventually reabsorb into the fuel. You can still see some wax in the untreated sample on the right. The others were treated with various anti-gelling additives and seemed to recover quicker than the untreated sample.

 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:34 PM
  #19  
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I was reading on a fuel company's website that the ULSD takes longer to return to normal than the old diesel did. It also said that ULSD will drop the paraffin at a higher temperature if it sits for a couple days and gets cold soaked, and if that happens the fuel needs to be warmed to a temperature quite a bit higher than the cloud point to return to normal, sometimes as high as 50F!

So the moral to the story as I see it is to treat your fuel when it's cold.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #20  
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#2 is the only option we have all year long. 71 degrees today so #1 is non-existent here. While I do add silver DK when I fill up, I do use white DK in the winter months in case I drive up to Big Bear or Tahoe.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 06:36 PM
  #21  
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Humm, I never run #1, always winter blend #2 (pump says good to -30°F) usually from the same station. Rarely do I put additional additive in (MN adds 2% soy for lubricity), I have never had a problem and it was -25° here on Monday. Maybe I'm just getting lucky.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #22  
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Jason,

Do you keep it garaged at night?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jhand124
Humm, I never run #1, always winter blend #2 (pump says good to -30°F) usually from the same station. Rarely do I put additional additive in (MN adds 2% soy for lubricity), I have never had a problem and it was -25° here on Monday. Maybe I'm just getting lucky.
Still got your mixing chamber?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by white Buffalo
Jason,

Do you keep it garaged at night?
Nope, to long for the garage.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by clux
Still got your mixing chamber?
I haven't done any in tank mods. Was set to do the in-tank pump, like Kwik but putting a new to me motor in took presedent.
 
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