How to add trim
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
How to add trim
This is a long term project. I would like to add the trim which follows the bottom fender line to my truck.
I have no way of attaching it currently. I know how it is held on by the factory, but was wondering how I should do it.
I would like it to look similar to Luke76's truck.
I have no way of attaching it currently. I know how it is held on by the factory, but was wondering how I should do it.
I would like it to look similar to Luke76's truck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: penn twp.
Here I am listing a couple of options for you to consider on how to do this.
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...e95/p22689.jpg
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...36e95/p880.jpg
just grind paint to clean bare metal then just mark where the clips are to be placed and where the rivet itself I to be placed then weld one f these rivets to the panel. Makes for a clean factory looking install.
Another method is the cheaper more rust prone method. That is to mark as described as mentioned above. Then drill an 1/8th inch hole and rivet the clip to the panel using a standard blind rivet. One thing to mention with the weld on rivet method is to be sure to coat the back side of the panel. As the heat of welding the rivet on to the panel will burn the primer and paint off the backside of the metal exposing bare metal to the weather. Which will also allow rust to set in.
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...e95/p22689.jpg
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...36e95/p880.jpg
just grind paint to clean bare metal then just mark where the clips are to be placed and where the rivet itself I to be placed then weld one f these rivets to the panel. Makes for a clean factory looking install.
Another method is the cheaper more rust prone method. That is to mark as described as mentioned above. Then drill an 1/8th inch hole and rivet the clip to the panel using a standard blind rivet. One thing to mention with the weld on rivet method is to be sure to coat the back side of the panel. As the heat of welding the rivet on to the panel will burn the primer and paint off the backside of the metal exposing bare metal to the weather. Which will also allow rust to set in.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Alan - If you could show a picture it would help. But, I will tell you how I plan to handle it on my truck.
The trim I'm using has plastic clips that go over a stud on the body and the slide a bit to lock in. I'm going to use stainless pop rivets to hold the clips on, and have already drilled the holes which will get painted as the cab and bed are painted. That way I won't have any rust. But in your case you would need to use a small brush or Q-tip to paint the hole after you drill it. Locating the hole is only critical in the up/down direction as the trim just snaps on the clips, which can slide in the trim fore/aft. But up/down is critical as you don't want any bends.
Also, 3M makes a trim adhesive tape that is routinely used on vehicles. I've not used it, but am told it holds very well so might be an option.
The trim I'm using has plastic clips that go over a stud on the body and the slide a bit to lock in. I'm going to use stainless pop rivets to hold the clips on, and have already drilled the holes which will get painted as the cab and bed are painted. That way I won't have any rust. But in your case you would need to use a small brush or Q-tip to paint the hole after you drill it. Locating the hole is only critical in the up/down direction as the trim just snaps on the clips, which can slide in the trim fore/aft. But up/down is critical as you don't want any bends.
Also, 3M makes a trim adhesive tape that is routinely used on vehicles. I've not used it, but am told it holds very well so might be an option.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
paredneck, that looks like the best way to replicate a factory stud. I like it. I wonder how much that would cost? Are those tools rentable from somewhere?
EDIT: Just looked up eastwood. That tool is expensive. If I went that route, it would need to be a rented tool.
Gary, I hadn't considered pop rivets, but my try it. And as for using 3M tape, I thought of using it, as it would be easiest.
I found a picture of another members truck:
EDIT: Just looked up eastwood. That tool is expensive. If I went that route, it would need to be a rented tool.
Gary, I hadn't considered pop rivets, but my try it. And as for using 3M tape, I thought of using it, as it would be easiest.
I found a picture of another members truck:
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: penn twp.
I doubt that you can rent it. However you can buy them used. And harbor freight has cheaper version. You'll just need to get the mould rivet tip and rivets. These tools can be worth their weight in gold if used correctly. Not only can they be used to pull dents and install mould rivets, but with the proper tip use can use them to also shrink metal that has been stretched as well. The listings I provided were meant to be used as a reference. Not necessarily to push to buying those exact models. You may want to check with local tool suppliers if you know of any in your area for used ones. And you can also check at local autobody supply stores. You may get lucky and find one that somebody is willing to rent. You may be able to get the rivet studs and the proper tips at the local suppliers cheaper as well.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: penn twp.
I wouldn't suggest the 3M tape as you would have to build up several layers to fill the recess space for the clips. Also to ensure that it would bond strong enough to the moulding you will need to use an adhesion promoter. And eventually it'll still want to peel apart and you may loose the mldg.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
Awesome. I think I will look more into the tools you mentioned, and see if I can find them. If not, I will go the route Gary is, and use rivets.
I also need to find the trim.
I also need to find the trim.
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Logistics Pro
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From: penn twp.
Hey 4x484150 I forgot to mention as I also assumed you hade the mouldings you wanted to install. Is that the sections that go onto the bodyline above the wheel lip is held on by a pin clip. For those area you will have to drill holes and use what is known as a barrel clip. You can get steel or plastic ones that should work. However the factory used a steel clip for those areas. Have you had any luck searching for a used or rental stud gun?
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
Thanks for the info pa. I'm familiar with the barrel clips, I added older emblems which use them. All the places near me for renting have normal things for rent, like drywall stuff and other construction tools. Nothing for specialty auto work.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
So as an update, I had a thought, maybe I could use small bolts instead of rivets? I was doing some research, and it appears that some of the clips were made from metal, with a bolt on it.
Also, Fordzilla is selling me some trim, and looks like that part is taken care of
Also, Fordzilla is selling me some trim, and looks like that part is taken care of
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
If you use small nuts and screws I would include lock washers. In fact, personally I'd add Locktite. Further, I would be concerned about the fasteners rusting so would use stainless. Harder to find in, say, a #10 screw, but worth it for the peace of mind.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: South Carolina
Absolutely Gary, I love stainless. Worth its price. I am going to look up prices for nuts and bolts. If a lock nut is cheaper than getting lock washers and nuts, I will use those.
Also, Gary, would you say that the bolt size would be a #10 for sure? I know at least one of your trucks has moulding, so you might know.
Edit: I found a nylon rivet, would it be strong enough? Linky
Also, Gary, would you say that the bolt size would be a #10 for sure? I know at least one of your trucks has moulding, so you might know.
Edit: I found a nylon rivet, would it be strong enough? Linky
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
I don't know what size the holes in the clips are for the trim, so can't say what size of fastener you will want to use. But I just picked #10 as an example.
But, I don't think I would use those nylon rivets, for two reasons. First, they stick out a long way on the inside so might get hit and sheared off. Second, I don't know that they would clamp tightly enough and might let the trim move or even rattle.
But, I don't think I would use those nylon rivets, for two reasons. First, they stick out a long way on the inside so might get hit and sheared off. Second, I don't know that they would clamp tightly enough and might let the trim move or even rattle.