A friend of mine has a 2001 F250 7.3. His ebpv seems to be working correctly.But no matter how long you drive it, the ebpv still actuates. I own a 2000 F250 7.3, and mine stops actuating after about fifteen minutes of driving. Both trucks are stock. They both actuate at tip-in throttle from about 1500-2000 rpm's. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

Unplug it. Leave it unplugged. Never worry about it or get mad at it again.

 

I'm looking more towards figuring out the problem. It gets pretty cold in WI and I would rather find and fix the issue and keep everything working that is related to keeping the engine and the driver warm. Being stranded at -20 sucks!

 

Not being a smarta$$, but the EBPV IS part of the problem. It's pointless if you let your truck warm up for a few minutes before you drive it. As far as why it's activating, I bet the line going to the sensor up near the HPOP is clogged with soot.

 

I agree and when you go to clean it, you will find a few spots that are rusted open. Just buy a new line, hook it all back up and see if it works like it should.

 

I pulled the EBP sensor and line off a few days ago. Neither were clogged, as well as the fitting on the exhaust manifold. I connected the EBP sensor to its connector and applied a regulated amount of shop air to the sensor while watching the scanner and the pressure increased. I did not see an increase in pressure with everything hooked up as I revved the engine and let off several times.

 

Where you in neutral when reving or in gear?

 

Is a wooshing noise out of the intake when under load (I have a 6637 air filter) caused by the EBPV? I have a new exhaust tube and back pressure sensor. Late '99 7.3 with an auto. Thanks, Larry

 

Contrary to my colleague, I find I really like the EBPV, but I have maintained my system and it works well. You have a scanner... good. Key on, engine off - look at your MAP (absolute) pressure and at the Exhaust Back Pressure at the same time. They should have the same reading. Please let me know what you find, and we'll go from there.

 

Interchange parts from one truck to the other!

 

That seems like more work to me. Do it right do it once.

 

I thought the EBPV is supposed to restrict the exhaust to help warm the engine up and keep the engine warm.


Mine closes one the oil temp warms up to a point and then stays closed as long as I'm not on the throttle too hard.

Somewhere I thought someone had a document describing the logic behind it, but I can't remember where it was and can't find it again.

Basically if the computer thinks the engine needs it, it will keep it closed to keep the engine warm.

Differences between how it's working on the two trucks could be how they are driven, temperature differences on the day, existing exhaust back pressure differences, Engine load (Truck weight, trans, gears, tires, aerodynamics), Driving route, conditions, etc.

I could go on.

If you have an AE and can monitor and record things like the oil temp, "coolant temp" engine load, boost pressure, Exhaust back pressure, throttle, RPM, speed, and EBPV activation. Do this on both trucks and note the ambient air temp and compare the data.

My guess is that your buddies truck is staying just cool enough that the ECM thinks the EBPV needs to stay closed.

It could also be a difference in the Ford programming from 2000 to 2001.

This could all be just normal, but with out the information on how the logic is supposed to work, and then sensor readings from the truck in question, it is not possible to determine if there is a problem or not.

 

I found this information. I have no idea if the temperature points for the valve actuation and deactivation changed from 1998 to 2000/2001 for you and your friends trucks, but this gives you an idea of how it works.

 

I thought it was only in play at idle because my ebpv will open by tapping the brake pedal.
Atleast the exhaust note changes from hissing to normal pressing brake.
Computer will close it again after several minutes if left idling cold.
As soon as brake is pressed to put in gear opens back up again.

 

That's probably part of the logic in the PCM. It might be opening it when you put your foot on the brake anticipating you putting it in gear and increasing the load on the engine. So it opens this to give the engine the best response to that load so it doesn't stall.