Steering Box?
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Steering Box?
So a few questions for everyone. I'm experiencing some interesting steering issues and noises. So first off when I turn the wheel in my 97 F250HD it has play so it doesn't engage so to speak until I've turned it a few inches. That part I could deal with until recently it seems to be getting worse, and now I can hear and feel it engage it's like a soft clunk when I move the wheel back and forth.
Second, when I am turning and hit a bump - like when I'm turning into a parking lot - there is this knocking noise.
I just replaced the outer tie rods two weeks ago and had the alignment done so the question is do you guys think I should just invest in control arms as well? I'm 99.9% sure the problem is my steering box. Should I get a remanufactured one? I have access to two used ones, one out of a 90 F250 and another out of a 95 Bronco.
Second, when I am turning and hit a bump - like when I'm turning into a parking lot - there is this knocking noise.
I just replaced the outer tie rods two weeks ago and had the alignment done so the question is do you guys think I should just invest in control arms as well? I'm 99.9% sure the problem is my steering box. Should I get a remanufactured one? I have access to two used ones, one out of a 90 F250 and another out of a 95 Bronco.
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I guess the best way to approach this to is ask what are the technical names of the steering components. From what I know, the pittman arm attaches to the steering box, and the outer tie rods are what are connected to the wheels. The other parts that make up the steering I don't know the name of them. Are they inner tie rods?
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Booneville, Missouri
Hello and good morning.
The following is for a 2WD.
Have you checked the pivot arm bushings (Twin I Beam). They are approximately 2 1/2" in diameter.
Put the truck on jack stands and hold the tire with one hand on the top and the other on the bottom. Determine if there is "free play" as there should not be any. Check both sides. You may also want to spin each tire and check for damaged wheel bearings.
Check the stabilizer bar and make sure the bushings are good and also the link bushings on each end of the stabilizer bar. The link is perhaps 4-5 inches long with bushings at each end.
While up on jack stands check the pitman arm, drag link and tie rod for any movement.
Take your time and check every thing related to the front suspension and steering.
There will be others chiming in with additional information as I recently replaced the stabilizer bar bushings including the links, pivot arm bushings, brakes and wheel bearings so I can only offer my first experience working on the front suspension and steering.
Take care and good luck!
ALWAYS DO WHAT IS FREE FIRST!!!!!
Boon
The following is for a 2WD.
Have you checked the pivot arm bushings (Twin I Beam). They are approximately 2 1/2" in diameter.
Put the truck on jack stands and hold the tire with one hand on the top and the other on the bottom. Determine if there is "free play" as there should not be any. Check both sides. You may also want to spin each tire and check for damaged wheel bearings.
Check the stabilizer bar and make sure the bushings are good and also the link bushings on each end of the stabilizer bar. The link is perhaps 4-5 inches long with bushings at each end.
While up on jack stands check the pitman arm, drag link and tie rod for any movement.
Take your time and check every thing related to the front suspension and steering.
There will be others chiming in with additional information as I recently replaced the stabilizer bar bushings including the links, pivot arm bushings, brakes and wheel bearings so I can only offer my first experience working on the front suspension and steering.
Take care and good luck!
ALWAYS DO WHAT IS FREE FIRST!!!!!
Boon
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The truck is 4WD.
I just put new rotors and pads on the front, changed out the auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs, and while I was doing so I re-packed the bearings so I know they are not the problem. The ball joints looked newer as well.
What I think I might do is replace the rest of the steering components in the front from steering box down. What parts would I need for this?
I just put new rotors and pads on the front, changed out the auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs, and while I was doing so I re-packed the bearings so I know they are not the problem. The ball joints looked newer as well.
What I think I might do is replace the rest of the steering components in the front from steering box down. What parts would I need for this?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 959
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From: Imperial, MO
I'd find the source of the play and the noise before replacing parts. The balljoints might look newer, but did you check them for play? Any cracks in the frame at the steering box? Turn the input (steering column) of the steering box while watching the output (pitman arm) to check the steering box for excessive lash. Check the pivot bushings. Check the radius arm brackets and bushings. Get it up in the air and check everything over.
The tie rods you're inquiring about are indeed the inner tie rods. You'll also need a pair of adjusting sleeves. RockAuto is a great source for all of these parts.
The tie rods you're inquiring about are indeed the inner tie rods. You'll also need a pair of adjusting sleeves. RockAuto is a great source for all of these parts.
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I don't usually operate off of the replace to replace rule but in this case I just got the truck a few months ago and it has 235 plus thousand on it and the PO didn't seem to like doing maintenance. rotors were actually cracked and I have never seen transmission and motor oil that dark. Part of me wants to replace all the parts so I won't have to go back and do part by part. The inner tie rods the grease bushings are cracked and dont' hold grease so I'm sure they could use replacing. When I replaced the outer tie rods I pumped fresh grease into those bushings and attempted the other ones and the grease leaked out. I'm Sort of fixing it all to know what I have in it type of thing.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Imperial, MO
Replacing all of the steering linkages is completely justifiable. What I'm getting at, is don't overlook the other possible sources for play.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Bitterroots of Montana
You should also check the steering shaft from the box up to the firewall. The shaft from the steering wheel slides into the shaft from the box (or the other way around, can't remember which), and you can get quite a bit of play there. I just replaced my tie rods, and still had a bit of play, which I tracked down to the steering shaft. This is the telescoping steering shaft, and is a common wear point.
Just got a Borgeson replacement shaft last week, but haven't put it in yet.
Just got a Borgeson replacement shaft last week, but haven't put it in yet.
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Thanks ewalt98 I did get under the steering wheel inside and didnt' see or feel any play from the wheel to the firewall so I eliminated anything having to do with inside the vehicle. Thank you for the help.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Bitterroots of Montana
I am referring to the shaft from the firewall to the steering box, in the engine bay. You can open the hood, grab the upper part of the shaft, and try to rotate it. If it does rotate a bit back and forth freely, but the lower part does not move, then there is play in the slip shaft part. You can also, at least on my truck, see it from the fender well.
I've only got 200k on the truck, and the play is pretty bad, and I initially thought it was the steering box itself, until I had the alignment shop show me otherwise.
Don't know if it would make the noises you hear, though.
I've only got 200k on the truck, and the play is pretty bad, and I initially thought it was the steering box itself, until I had the alignment shop show me otherwise.
Don't know if it would make the noises you hear, though.
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The noises just started and this isn't my primary vehicle so I'm trying to get it all fixed up before the first week in January for my next hunting trip. I'll take a look at that I know exactly what you're speaking of.
Has anyone put a Steering Stabilizer Kit on their truck before? I heard its suggested for older trucks with high mileage and trucks with tires bigger than stock.
Has anyone put a Steering Stabilizer Kit on their truck before? I heard its suggested for older trucks with high mileage and trucks with tires bigger than stock.
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And to answer my own question and if anyone else down the line needs the information the parts are as followed according to LMC from drivers side to passenger side in order of parts
-outer tie rod
-inner tie rod
-drag link
-outer tie rod
The outer rods hook to the drag link/inner tie rods
The inner tie rod on drivers side attaches to the drag link
The drag link connects to the pitman arm which connects to the steering box
I will note in addition to these parts you can buy new adjusting sleeves for the outer tie rods but mine are still good so I'll paint them and reuse them to save $35 bucks
-outer tie rod
-inner tie rod
-drag link
-outer tie rod
The outer rods hook to the drag link/inner tie rods
The inner tie rod on drivers side attaches to the drag link
The drag link connects to the pitman arm which connects to the steering box
I will note in addition to these parts you can buy new adjusting sleeves for the outer tie rods but mine are still good so I'll paint them and reuse them to save $35 bucks
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my father in-law had a 96 F250 that had horrible steering wheel Lash. so bad that you would have to move the wheel 3 or 4 inches in either direction to keep it on the road. he told me to fix it there is an allen screw on the steering box that he tightened and it took up the play there.
I did not do this my self so I am not sure on the correctness of this and this only works if the play is in the steering box.
I did not do this my self so I am not sure on the correctness of this and this only works if the play is in the steering box.