While we have settled on a 383 Stroker as our power plant, the builder and I have not discussed transmissions. I might be wrong but I get the impression that he believes a standard 700R4 will be ok behind this motor. The motor will make 420 Hp and 430-440 TQ. All the conversations I see on here and the H.A.M.B indicate that most believe that those numbers needed a beefed up trans. I solicit your comments and advice. Ben 73058 who has been a great help to a newbie like me commented that had he to do again, he might have went with a manual over his auto. I truly would like comments on this as well, I originally went with the 700R4 over my 350 because I wanted OD. I am open to both manual and auto. I await the boards advice. Thanks to all for this wealth of information that is shared on this board.

 

How are you planning on using the truck? What average mileage do you want?

_______________________________
48 Ford F1 - Darkside
46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod
"There's no substitute for cubic inches"

 

My usage plan for the truck is really just a weekend driver and to events every now and then. There will certainly be no racing or abuse with the truck.

 

Just curious, if no racing or hard running, why the need for 400HP? What trans I would use depends on rear gear and tire size. I would not use a stock 700r4 unless you never plan on getting on it hard..and then back to the question why the HP if you arent going to use it.

 

I went thru a similar decision on what to do for a transmission although I did want an automatic which imho is better suited for towing-which is a design point for me. I built a clone to the GMPP 383HT. It dynoed at 350HP and 440 torque. I had a 700R4 that I really did not know much about other than it came out of a 2wd 1989 Suburban. I had a reputable independent shop go thru it putting HD components in it but not for crazy HP. Including the converter the total cost was $900. I could have gambled with it as just a used trans but decided that everything else on the truck is rebuilt.

 

It's all about what you like. Either choice, I am sure, will work with want you are building. Due the math before you decide. What differential gear, tire size, OD gear ratio will help you make your decision.
I have a T350 in my Street Rod and it works fine but my F1 has a T5z just because I like shifting gears. I'm sure that my F1 decision was based on my age. When I built my first Hot Rod in High School all Hot Rods had 3 pedals.

___________________________________________
48 Ford F1 - Darkside
46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod

"Happiness - 3 pedals and a 5 speed"

 

Hey Derek,
I think the thread below gives a good overall discussion on manual vs. automatic in our old trucks. Brain75 (Bryan) is a resident expert on transmissions here as he's done a ton of research on the different options so you might want to contact him while you are looking at alternatives.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1-f-1-a-3.html

My personal preference would be to go with a Manual 5 speed or an AOD with beefed up internals. We went the AOD route so the women in my group could still drive it - but the reality is they would rather walk (10) miles than drive "that smelly old thing".

Some thoughts:
o Don't buy your transmission too early as your 12 month warranty starts clicking away as soon as its shipped to you. So.. If it sits on the shelf and you install it a year later & it doesn't work - you are out your cash.

o If you aren't doing it yourself I would use a specialty transmission shop to handle the rebuild & installation so you have one place to go if you have problems. ie Don't have your mechanic do an AOD transmission install - have the transmission shop do it & provide warranty. They are tricky - if you don't get the pressure just right.

On a positive note the AOD is a very good highway cruiser and you don't have any issues with the Bench seat & the Manual shifter.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

how did I get volunteered into this?


Lets start with what I can guess / know from the basics here:

383 stroker that has a chevy 350 muncie pattern on the back, yeah?

TKO 5
T-56
T-5 (world class)
can all be had in a 350 muncie pattern... issue is the WC t-5 is mostly in mustangs and the ideal shifter is S-10's and there is a few WC T-5's in S10's (6 cyl).

sooooo, what's wrong with the T-56 or the TKO5 - I never investigated those... lets here from the chevy experts.
1) will a WC T-5 stand up to 400 ponies?
2) is the T-56 a viable install?
3) is the TKO 5 a viable install?

 

What is a 350 muncie pattern?
Pretty much any GM trans can be made to work with a SB chevy. First question is one piece rear main seal or two, it will determine what is needed to make whatever manual trans fit. Automatics are easier.
Torque is what kills a transmission, and first gear ratio is next as far as rating on similar transmissions. T56s with different first gear ratios have different torque ratings.
GM never put a WC T5 behind even a TPI350 (345 ft/lb torque), only came with the 305 (300 ft/lb). So based on their engineering I would say a stock WC T5 is a no go. Would it last if you never dump the clutch or hammer it? Sure. No fun. Aftermarket is another animal.
T56 I have done conversions with, huge transmission, see my build thread for an idea of size.
Back to the original question, I would not run a stock 700r4 behind a 400 ft/lb engine unless you never do a burnout and plan on not having any fun with the truck

I plan on big smokey burnouts with my T56!

 

"What is a 350 muncie pattern? "

ummm.. I'm a ford guy so take this as a ford guy trying to explain chevy technology and terminology... when he doesn't really know a whole lot of chevy foo.

The most common transmission pattern I have seen amongst almost every chevy I have touched has the 4 bolt flat faced pattern that the industry describes with these terminologies:
"chevy 350" "muncie", "350MT" "350 muncie", etc - this thing:



for reference here is a really good write up with real pictures (not sketchy drawings) of the various transmission patterns, mopar, ford and chevy.
(I hot linked the beginning of the chevy)
Wilcap Company Tech Page


I had a hunch a WC T-5 would be too weak to take the abuse - glad someone else who knew more about the figures chimed in.
(for the record all my research was geared at putting a modern trans behind a flathead - I wasn't ever looking at HP figures over 200)

 

Hope I'm in the correct place with this questions. My bone stock '50 F1 has the factory 4 speed tranny in it. My question is, should it have synchronizer's between 2-4 gear, or any at all?

If I wanted to 'upgrade' to a newer 4 speed tranny, possible a '55-'56 tranny, if these years had synchronizer's, what should I look for keeping in mind I'd like to keep my heap stock.

Thanks so much for any information. Be well.

 

You will probably get some answers here but you may want to start a new thread as your question may get missed in this post. Sorry I don't have the answers you need as I have a HD 3 speed and it has synchros except first gear.

 

Thanks RimRock. Must I be a paid member to start a new thread?? I can't find a place to start one......dawg gone it.

 

Upper left hand corner of the main page for this 48 - 56 forum has the New Thread button.

The stock 4-sp has zero synchros. No other transmission except possibly a C4 automatic will fit without cutting out the transmission crossmember, which is a main structural element of the frame. You have to leave parts of the crossmember to support the pedals, and create a new trans crossmember, and reinforce the frame. It's been done a lot of times, there are lots of threads here about it. A google search will turn them up for you.

 

Ross is correct (he's kinda a general expert around here - but just thought I would give you a 2nd confirmation with a little more explanation).

I spent a ton of time (basically all of one winter) trying to figure out all the trans options that were "zero fab" meaning you don't have to cut the crossmember.
This is the data I compiled and saved:
Ford F1 series Transmissions swap

As a result somehow I get volunteered as the local "trans expert" hehe.

The short and skinny that Ross gave you is absolutely correct - the F1 small crossmember makes everything tough. It sits so close to the back of the engine that you need a transmission that is 9" long or less total, an impossible bill to fit anymore.

I went with the T-5 trans (non WC, from a 6 cyl S10) using the Dwight Bond adapter plate. It was really a painless conversion when it came down to it.