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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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E4OD diagnosis

My transmission had a filter change a month ago. Couple days ago I was pulling a trailer when I noticed clouds of white smoke coming from the back of the truck. I stopped, and found fluid pouring (not just dripping) out of the front of the transmission, and splattered all over the muffler, rear axle, etc.

I got it home and took the pan off, and drained the torque converter. I got a little less than 2 gallons out of it. The fluid is dark red/brownish in color. No metal chunks in the pan. There doesn't appear to be particles suspended in the fluid. There's a lot of really fine mush stuck to the magnet.

I think the transmission was slipping. It seemed like maybe the engine was revving up when I gave it more gas, at a steady speed, but I can't be sure on this as I don't have a tach. It would explain the fluid loss due to overheating.

I've ohm-checked the solenoids and they are good. I'd like to know whether this is something that can be fixed by replacing the torque converter. If the clutches in the transmission are toast, I'm going to swap to a ZF.



 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 10:08 PM
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I replace alot of hubs on those converters they tend to crack where the hub hits the weld on the pump of the converter. We put flanges hubs in all heavy duty applications that takes care of the cracked hub problem.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by the builder
I replace alot of hubs on those converters they tend to crack where the hub hits the weld on the pump of the converter. We put flanges hubs in all heavy duty applications that takes care of the cracked hub problem.
I'm not sure what you mean about the hub hitting the weld; is that something internal? I have the converter out and I don't see any cracks on the outside of it. Can these things be bench tested?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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you can pressue test them we test them at 80psi. sorry it took so long to reply email was messed up they usualy crack around the weld also if the hub is worn or out around it will leak some guys can test them with air hose by putting something in the hub to take up space them put air gun in the center put liquid soap and water around pump to see the leak air bubbles will apear if its cracked
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by One Sock
My transmission had a filter change a month ago. Couple days ago I was pulling a trailer when I noticed clouds of white smoke coming from the back of the truck. I stopped, and found fluid pouring (not just dripping) out of the front of the transmission, and splattered all over the muffler, rear axle, etc.

This is a common problem with them leaking out the front especially when working the transmission hard like pulling a trailer. The fluid gets hot and the seal cant hold the fluid, after it cools down it will seal again. The fix is to replace the front seal, there is a new design that is made from a different material that wont fail from the heat and will last longer (time)

I got it home and took the pan off, and drained the torque converter. I got a little less than 2 gallons out of it. The fluid is dark red/brownish in color. No metal chunks in the pan. There doesn't appear to be particles suspended in the fluid. There's a lot of really fine mush stuck to the magnet.

I have seen worse, I am not that concerned with what I see.

I think the transmission was slipping. It seemed like maybe the engine was revving up when I gave it more gas, at a steady speed, but I can't be sure on this as I don't have a tach. It would explain the fluid loss due to overheating.

Transmission may have been slipping due to the loss of fluid

I've ohm-checked the solenoids and they are good. I'd like to know whether this is something that can be fixed by replacing the torque converter. If the clutches in the transmission are toast, I'm going to swap to a ZF.

There really is no way to know if there is damage to the clutches or anything else, you would have to disassemble the transmission to find out for sure
Pressure testing the converter is not a bad thing but in my opinion is the leak will be with the seal and not converter. That is solely based on what I see in my shop, your issue may be different. A crack in the converter or anywhere else generally will leak all the time, not really just when hot.

If it was me and I removed the transmission I would replace the converter just because I was there and because they are known for problems. There are better converters available that would help when towing, they have a better clutch and or multiple clutches inside the converter for a better and stronger lock up. There is also some modifications that can be done to the pump for a better overall performance of the transmission and lock up, but this would mean you would have to remove the pump.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jk080
There are better converters available that would help when towing, they have a better clutch and or multiple clutches inside the converter for a better and stronger lock up. There is also some modifications that can be done to the pump for a better overall performance of the transmission and lock up
Thanks for the replies. Which converters are good for towing? Is the one from NAPA any good? What kind of mods can be done to the pump?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Get one with a billet back cover try and get the sonnax back cover. Also make sure they use the sonnax improved hardened spline with extra oil holes. And a new luk clutch triple kit. You can also get a lower stall pump for better pulling power
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by One Sock
Thanks for the replies. Which converters are good for towing? Is the one from NAPA any good? What kind of mods can be done to the pump?
No not NAPA I would get one through Transtar or W I T. Hear is a link to transtar description page, you dont have to have the big multi clutch one, just not stock, the billet cover is important.

e4od/4r100 Torque Converter For Sale | Transmission Torque Converters | Transtar

I like this kit, its simple and makes them work like they should, to use the rubber seal you will have to disassemble the transmission. You can just not use it, the rest of the kit is where the improvement is at.

You have to be prepared to remove the pump and part of the valve body.


 
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