Differential Question
Differential Question
I'm wondering differential options and front versus rear.
It seems to me that having a locker in the front and limited slip in the rear would be the perfect set up for a balance of on-road and off-road performance. On the street, you would have the hubs unlocked, so the front differential wouldn't even come into play. You wouldn't have any of the locking/unlocking harshness in curves, parking lots, etc. But off road, you have the benefit of a locking diff.
What would be disadvantage of this set up? Seems like the best of both worlds.
Does the question even make sense? Am I confused about something? I know there is a LOT of mis-information out there about differentials.
It seems to me that having a locker in the front and limited slip in the rear would be the perfect set up for a balance of on-road and off-road performance. On the street, you would have the hubs unlocked, so the front differential wouldn't even come into play. You wouldn't have any of the locking/unlocking harshness in curves, parking lots, etc. But off road, you have the benefit of a locking diff.
What would be disadvantage of this set up? Seems like the best of both worlds.
Does the question even make sense? Am I confused about something? I know there is a LOT of mis-information out there about differentials.
I think this is a great question, I will be watching for an answer also. Only question I have for you, are you talking about a manual locker up front such as ARB or a locker that kinda works as a limited slip and kicks in when necessary up front. It would only work when the hubs were locked in.
If I mis spoke - please explain the set up, I am here to learn.
If I mis spoke - please explain the set up, I am here to learn.
Whew! That is a can of worms with about as many answers as there are opinions.
I wouldn't disagree with your premise actually. Personally, I would go with selectable lockers front and rear if I was going to be off road in some heavy terrain a lot.
That way you can just leave it all open when on the street.
Some guys don't have any issue on the street in the snow being fully locked up, some can't stand it.
Budget also has a lot to do with it. Can you afford a pair of selectable lockers front and rear? They replace the carrier so it is not an easy swap in.
Personally, I like to do things a little on the cheap side without compromising. There are several decent auto lockers now that are "soft".
Spartan lockers have a good reputation for easy locking so they work well on the street. Detroit has their Soft Locker but they are pretty expensive plus install.
Once I get VanDOOM all tuned up and begin the resto, I will be looking at lockers but they need to be street friendly.
Now there is the Powertrax No Slip locker. Installs like the LockRight or Spartan (they are made by LockRight) and they supposedly eliminated the clicking around corners.
Here is a good article on the Powertrax - Powertrax No-Slip
Another thing to think about is the wheel base of the vehicle. If it is going into a F350 quad door then auto lockers won't be an issue, but with a short wheelbase like a Ranger or Wrangler, then it will be more noticeable.
I wouldn't disagree with your premise actually. Personally, I would go with selectable lockers front and rear if I was going to be off road in some heavy terrain a lot.
That way you can just leave it all open when on the street.
Some guys don't have any issue on the street in the snow being fully locked up, some can't stand it.
Budget also has a lot to do with it. Can you afford a pair of selectable lockers front and rear? They replace the carrier so it is not an easy swap in.
Personally, I like to do things a little on the cheap side without compromising. There are several decent auto lockers now that are "soft".
Spartan lockers have a good reputation for easy locking so they work well on the street. Detroit has their Soft Locker but they are pretty expensive plus install.
Once I get VanDOOM all tuned up and begin the resto, I will be looking at lockers but they need to be street friendly.
Now there is the Powertrax No Slip locker. Installs like the LockRight or Spartan (they are made by LockRight) and they supposedly eliminated the clicking around corners.
Here is a good article on the Powertrax - Powertrax No-Slip
Another thing to think about is the wheel base of the vehicle. If it is going into a F350 quad door then auto lockers won't be an issue, but with a short wheelbase like a Ranger or Wrangler, then it will be more noticeable.
i would disagree to an extent.
the best of both worlds would be as shocker said, to have a selectable locker front and rear.
if i did not do selectable front and rear, i would do limited slip FRONT and ratchet locker rear.
the last thing you want is a full locker in the front.
if something happens like catching traction with one wheel only, the steering wheel is going to jerk that way, usually resulting in a broken hand or wrist.
or if you break an axle while under power, you will most likely loose control when the truck jukes to the unbroken side
the best of both worlds would be as shocker said, to have a selectable locker front and rear.
if i did not do selectable front and rear, i would do limited slip FRONT and ratchet locker rear.
the last thing you want is a full locker in the front.
if something happens like catching traction with one wheel only, the steering wheel is going to jerk that way, usually resulting in a broken hand or wrist.
or if you break an axle while under power, you will most likely loose control when the truck jukes to the unbroken side
I'm with Tom.
If $ is there, selectables. If tight, full auto locker in the rear, a limited slip in the front.
Or to save a little $, over both selectables, run just a selectable in the front and a auto in the back.
If $ is there, selectables. If tight, full auto locker in the rear, a limited slip in the front.
Or to save a little $, over both selectables, run just a selectable in the front and a auto in the back.
i would disagree to an extent.
the best of both worlds would be as shocker said, to have a selectable locker front and rear.
if i did not do selectable front and rear, i would do limited slip FRONT and ratchet locker rear.
the last thing you want is a full locker in the front.
if something happens like catching traction with one wheel only, the steering wheel is going to jerk that way, usually resulting in a broken hand or wrist.
or if you break an axle while under power, you will most likely loose control when the truck jukes to the unbroken side
the best of both worlds would be as shocker said, to have a selectable locker front and rear.
if i did not do selectable front and rear, i would do limited slip FRONT and ratchet locker rear.
the last thing you want is a full locker in the front.
if something happens like catching traction with one wheel only, the steering wheel is going to jerk that way, usually resulting in a broken hand or wrist.
or if you break an axle while under power, you will most likely loose control when the truck jukes to the unbroken side
And only jerking ever with a front locker I've noticed is at higher speed on roads with snow. Wheel slightly pulled under throttle or after throttle was released. Again only at high speeds
Front mechanical locker is fine in a fullsize rig. Shorter wheelbase is more effected in steering manners. I ran a Detroit in my front and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it for a long wheelbase wheeler.
Selectable is ideal but more $.
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Broken hand??? Serious lol
And only jerking ever with a front locker I've noticed is at higher speed on roads with snow. Wheel slightly pulled under throttle or after throttle was released. Again only at high speeds
Front mechanical locker is fine in a fullsize rig. Shorter wheelbase is more effected in steering manners. I ran a Detroit in my front and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it for a long wheelbase wheeler.
Selectable is ideal but more $.
And only jerking ever with a front locker I've noticed is at higher speed on roads with snow. Wheel slightly pulled under throttle or after throttle was released. Again only at high speeds
Front mechanical locker is fine in a fullsize rig. Shorter wheelbase is more effected in steering manners. I ran a Detroit in my front and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it for a long wheelbase wheeler.
Selectable is ideal but more $.
i know 3 people that broke hands/wrists, including one person here(Larry) due to a front locker grabbing traction under power with one wheel and the steering wheel being ripped out of the drivers hand.
and a 86 bronco that was totaled after the front right axle broke under power, the truck jerked left, and rolled 6 times off a hill.
I run an Detroit style auto locker in both axles and have driven on the street a few occasions with the front hubs locked. I've never had. An issue with the steering wheel trying to break my fingers, but I am running hydro assist which muffles a lot of that behavior. I would not hesitate to run a Detroit in the rear in the street, (or Yukon grizzly etc)
like i said, i would never ever run a full time locker on a front axle on a truck.
i know 3 people that broke hands/wrists, including one person here(Larry) due to a front locker grabbing traction under power with one wheel and the steering wheel being ripped out of the drivers hand.
and a 86 bronco that was totaled after the front right axle broke under power, the truck jerked left, and rolled 6 times off a hill.
i know 3 people that broke hands/wrists, including one person here(Larry) due to a front locker grabbing traction under power with one wheel and the steering wheel being ripped out of the drivers hand.
and a 86 bronco that was totaled after the front right axle broke under power, the truck jerked left, and rolled 6 times off a hill.
i am not talking about normal driving with a locker in the front.
i am talking about aggressive driving with a front locker.
if you are under power and break an axle, all the power will go the other side and YOU WILL LOOSE CONTROL.
on the same lines, if you are under power offroad and loose traction on one tire but not on the other tire, the steering wheel will almost surely get ripped out of your hand.
i am talking about aggressive driving with a front locker.
if you are under power and break an axle, all the power will go the other side and YOU WILL LOOSE CONTROL.
on the same lines, if you are under power offroad and loose traction on one tire but not on the other tire, the steering wheel will almost surely get ripped out of your hand.
I never had a issue with the steering wheel jerking out of my hands when I broke one side or the other with my front locked. I ran welded or lockers in the fronts since I got my first 4x4, only rig I had issues with it jerking the steering wheel was the old 68 bronco with manual steering. But wasn't bad enough to break fingers or anything....
I ran a locker in the front for awhile but found out I was MUCH more likely to break front axles. Did a poor man's limited slip (added side shims to the spider gears) and stopped having problems with broken axles.
Now my truck wasn't a "street" truck by anyones definition but I have found that an open diff in the front is NOT a disadvantage, but having a locker in the front does frequently have serious consequences.
Now my truck wasn't a "street" truck by anyones definition but I have found that an open diff in the front is NOT a disadvantage, but having a locker in the front does frequently have serious consequences.








