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I checked the wiring very carefully today. It appeared that the wires to number 8 were melted a little so I disconnected the left injector harness and pulled it out to get a better view. It turns out the wires were NOT melted, just stuck together and discolored. I checked #8 injector wires for continuity to FICM and got .2 to .3 ohms on each wire. The connector pins and the FICM pins all look good with not corrosion or any visible damage. Fortunately we have a lot of good literature to go by. We have a the Ford Service, Parts, Wiring and Power-train/Emissions manuals. They have been a blessing. The work bench looks like a library right now.
When u changed ur ICP sensor, did u also change the pigtail?
How about pulling the oil filter and checking in the base of the housing for metal. I have seen cont bal codes before from a cam/lifter issue. But it didn't run as bad as yours. Have you air tested? Stupid question,, you didn't forget to put the #8 gp in after the comp test???
Ur welcome. Sorry to hear about the mysterious problem. Did u get all new injectors?
I'm starting to wonder if u may have a faulty fuel line going into number 8 injector since tat seems to be the problem.
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The new engine which is a Ford Reman Long Block came with all new injectors. When we first started diagnosing the problem, we put a new injector in #8 slot with no change. Then we tried swapping injectors around from #6 and 8 with no change. The injectors are common rail so the possibility of a faulty line are eliminated. Were checked the rail for leaks and did a visual inspection with the head off and did not see anything wrong.
This morning at end of shift I was running through some tests with the Ford IDS scan tool. On one of the KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests, the engine was making all kinds of strange noises and lurching all over the place, then set a code for cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance along with cylinder 8. I had not seen that code before. The day shift guy said he saw it come up, but it was not in his pass down notes.
For the most part, I have been the only one working on this truck. He has done some of the scan tool diagnostics since he is more familiar with the IDS system. He has maybe 8 or 10 hours in it, I have over 230 hours in the truck with the engine replacement, other repairs related to engine replacement and running problem diagnostics. Try handing that bill to a customer.
We need mchan and or cheezit to see this thread. This poor guy has done everything he can. Short of let it slip through the ice in the bay. :-/
Believe me, if I had my way, it would already be an artificial reef. The head honchos considered writing it off and sending it to Port Hueneme, California on the resupply vessel that is due here in a couple weeks. There it would be auctioned off to the highest bidder. We have about 10 pieces of equipment that are headed that way soon.
When u changed ur ICP sensor, did u also change the pigtail?
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No, we did not change the pigtail when we temporarily replaced the ICP. Now that you mention it, the guy that originally diagnosed the bad engine made some sort of note about the ICP harness. I will go back right now and check his notes and look at the harness more closely. I haven't noticed any issues with it, but I did not pull the heat insulator off of it. It seems that if it were a problem, that I would be getting more codes than just the #8 C/B code but you never know. I am not going to discount anything at this point. When I put everything back together this last time, I reinstalled the original ICP because it did not fix the problem and it is the only spare we have. I did not want to waste it on this truck.
How about pulling the oil filter and checking in the base of the housing for metal. I have seen cont bal codes before from a cam/lifter issue. But it didn't run as bad as yours. Have you air tested? Stupid question,, you didn't forget to put the #8 gp in after the comp test???
I am assuming you mean metal in the oil cooler housing screen? I have not removed it. I have had the oil/fuel filter housing off several times and did not notice any issues there.
We suspected a lifter/cam issue at one point. When I had the head off, I checked for a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod but did not see anything out of the ordinary. I would not expect a faulty cam on a Ford reman engine but anything is possible, especially since the engine has been sitting in a crate since 2007. I wanted to pull the lifters in #8 while I had the head off but you can't really do that without removing the high pressure oil tube. In order to do that, I would have to completely disassemble the top of the engine. I don't think that tube will come out with the engine in the truck. I may be wrong. The cam seems to be ok because the valves seem to be opening the same amount on all cylinders on that side.
Not sure what you mean by 'air tested'.
Yes, I did put the glow plug back in after testing compression.
Where was the noise coming from? Intake? Or somewhere else? Could be a lifter if it set that long. Hydraulic roller. Could need time to pump up or has collapsed.
When we originally cranked the new engine back in November (I think), the knocking seemed to me to be coming from the bottom end. The night foreman insisted it was an injector knock from air in the system. When that cleared up, the noise it makes is mainly just because of the rough idle. It just doesn't have the normal diesel noise, hard to explain. The tach surges up and down about 50-100 rpms at idle. I may try to record a video with sound so you can hear it run. I will have to figure out how to post in on the forum. We have run the engine several hours at varying rpms, so the lifters should have pumped up by now. They don't appear to be collapsed.
I am not a quitter so I will keep plugging away with it. The pay here is the same whether I am reading the forums about this problem child, pulling my hair out under the hood of it, or working on some of the other chit we have here. The sad thing is, the Fire Apparatus F550's are the nicest trucks we have here, besides maybe the 2011 E350 vans and the 2009 E350 Ambulances. Most of the vehicles here are kinda wore out.
[QUOTE=Iceman Antarctica;13929385]I am assuming you mean metal in the oil cooler housing screen? I have not removed it. I have had the oil/fuel filter housing off several times and did not notice any issues there.
no need to go that far,,, I mentioned the oil FILTER only. If there's a lifter issue,, there should be metal laying in the housing the oil filter goes in.
We suspected a lifter/cam issue at one point. When I had the head off, I checked for a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod but did not see anything out of the ordinary. I would not expect a faulty cam on a Ford reman engine but anything is possible, especially since the engine has been sitting in a crate since 2007. I wanted to pull the lifters in #8 while I had the head off but you can't really do that without removing the high pressure oil tube. In order to do that, I would have to completely disassemble the top of the engine. I don't think that tube will come out with the engine in the truck. I may be wrong.
YES, but removal of ALL the lifters is possible only with transmission removal.
The cam seems to be ok because the valves seem to be opening the same amount on all cylinders on that side.
Not sure what you mean by 'air tested'.
AIR TEST,,, means pumping air into the hpo system,, while having the ipr commanded closed,, and check for a nipple cup leak or any leak.
PS Apparently iPhone and the FTE album do not place nice together...
X2 on that Josh.
Will those tracks run ok on asphalt? I would assume its not recommended, but theyd b cool to have at tge shop to put in for those kinda days we have been having lately. Lol. Are those just bolt on??
Will those tracks run ok on asphalt? I would assume its not recommended, but theyd b cool to have at tge shop to put in for those kinda days we have been having lately. Lol. Are those just bolt on??
Yes they are bolt on with only slight modification to truck. They are designed to be easily removed just like taking e regular wheel off and changing it. They are called Mattracks. Check out their website here: Mattracks | Worldwide Rubber Track Technology
I would check all fuses and make sure none are blown. I just had a radio shop blow 3 20-amp and 1 10-amp fuse in my 2006 F250 while installing a new radio. The truck ran like crap just like you are describing (although the computer was not generating any codes).