I have a 93 f350 4x4 e4od I have only had the truck a few months the guy told me the transmission was rebuilt because it wasn't shifting when it went back in it had the same problem after the rebuild when I drove it home (45 miles) it wouldn't shift past second so naturally I stomped on it almost redlined before slamming into 3rd then 4th did 70 fine for about 20 miles then I pulled over because the temp gauge wasn't working so I wanted to make sure it wasn't getting hot went to take off never would shift past second again no mater what I did the oil is nice and red seems like an electrical issue to me but any ideas would be appreciated

 

ok the very last thing you want to do when you have auto trans issues is to romp on it.they are very expensive to fix if you brake it.pushing one hard when down will never cure what ails it.
when not working correctly,you want to baby it at most,and preferably not drive it at all until you can fix it.
following this rule could lead to simply free fixes,or multi thousand dollar ones.

do you know if the TPS/FIPL has been replaced before? it's easy to test it for any blank/dead spots with a multi meter.have you seen the TPS/FIPL thread as noted in the upper most "read first" thread?

another extremely common place to inspect is the solenoid pack plug.do a quick search and you'll get pics with detailed cleaning instructions.

does the od light flash? does the bulb work,light up when you turn od off?

 

The od light flashes the tps sensor gets 1.2 volts at idle and 4.3 at WOT as far as I know that's good and the wires into the solenoid plug look good I haven't actually unplugged it and looked though

 

Won't the wheel speed sensor cause this if it is bad?

 

Yours is working.

Google tranny codes and how to pull them.
Could be as simple as a broken connector at the tranny. Happens all the time.

 

yeah,very good news then.the flashing light as noted by MPoulson,means the control unit for the trans received a signal it didn't like,or didn't get one it was suppose to at the right time.this can really help point you in the right direction.
though that flashing od light seems like your enemy lol,it's your friend.
(baby that trans real easy on home when you see that flashing if you can't tow it next time.)
do you have a ford OBD1 code scanner? if not,you can use a test light/multi meter.mostly for the gas jobs,but this will help you figure it out:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

i suggest buying a OBD1 reader though.they're like 20$ or so last i looked on amazon.
once you get your code(s) post 'em up.

 

Thanks for everything so far I'll look for one and order it tonight I tried to get it check at O'Reillys and the guy just kept saying it wouldn't read anything but I know its getting power to a couple of the pins but that's it. If the computer is bad banks makes a replacement for the e4od I plan on getting its only $250 which I'm not sure but that's probably cheaper than the factory replacement has anybody ever used one of these?

 

what banks has to offer is called a trans command.it's simply a device that goes with your current tcm.an electronic shift kit.for this,it would be best to do the valve body mods instead,and it's not anything that would help your current issue.
no need to worry about things like the tcm going bad.it can happen but rare.when diagnosing,it's all in starting with the basics.inspect and clean the complete wiring harness best you can (if you haven't done so recently) and pull the codes.most often a flashing od light is either a free fix of dirty contacts,or around 50$ for a sensor swap.

 

Ok so I got a code reader today hooked it up and got three codes 23,10, and 11 any ideas on what those might be

 

ok so;


10 = ?

^how sure are ya about this one? please try scanning again.



11 = System checks OK

^ this is good.


23 = Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high

^ you'll get that every time if you don't hold WOT (wide open throttle) during the entire scan.you probably just didn't know this right? if you didn't know that,please scan again while holing the throttle wide open to see if it reports 23 again.

EEC IV 2 digit codes

and did you get a change to inspect the solenoid pack plug?
while down there,follow this back up around the top of trans,over along pass side frame and inspect here very well too.your looking for any chafing of the wire loom and or possibly chafed open wires,which would be doom for the trans and must be repaired.things of this nature would cause who knows what kind of codes.typically these (and dirty solenoid plug packs) would trow tot sensor,converter slip,line pressure, and or shift solenoid type codes.not seeing these,but still.it's good to inspect this harness while your diagnosing and even just making sure plugs you see get pulled and cleaned while your at it.it's just good preventive maintenance while your searching.

 

So since the system checks ok that could be a bad thing since that would mean its more likely to be a mechanical issue the connectors looked fine its possible I missed something since it was 30 degrees outside so I was kinda in a hurry I guess my next step would be to drop the pan and look for metal.

 

the system pass doesn't mean you don't have an electrical issue.it simply means the tcm is getting good readings from power,ground,and it's sensors.it's not saying that there are no issues with sensors.
you didn't say if you inspected the wiring,plugs and cleaned anything yet,and you didn't mention if you rescanned with WOT and still got code 23.you also forget to post what the story was about code 10 and how you thought you read a "0"
remember,your the one with the eyes.we're blind here.
your a long ways off from condemning anything mechanical.with an electronically controlled transmission,you must focus and diagnose the electrical system first.

 

Did it at WOT and just got 11

 

is the od light still flashing?

 

It seems more like its flickering more than flashing and if I push the button it stays on for about 5 seconds then goes off