Hydraulic Clutch
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New User
Joined: Dec 2013
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Hydraulic Clutch
I have a 96 F250 XL, 351 5 speed, 205k miles. Over its life it has had at least 6 master and slave kits put in for the clutch. Whats up with this? Why would it eat them so much. The last one lasted 2 1/2 years (a record I think) but now it seems to be failing again (pedal stays on the floor, won't go into gear when running, need to add DOT 3). Oddly, I find no fluid in the bell housing. Any thoughts? Is there a conversion kit to non-hydraulic? What engine / xmsn combination is better for durability and repairability? I'd like to keep a manual.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
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my 95 250 with 351 4x4 single cab zf 42 seems to be going through slaves as well.i put a new 1 in when i changed my clutch witch i thout was bad but didnt look bad after i removed it.it would slip and smell when taking off in 2nd gear even when on flat surface.so i put in a dual friction center force clutch to prevent the slipping.this still happens every once in awhile.anyway i changed the slave out as well with a dorman slave.not like 3 or so months later it went out and i replaced the slave again.1yr or so later now it seems to be leaking again iv added 2 times now in 2 to 2 1/2 weeks so im wondering if these issues are common as well.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2012
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From: Franklin, IN
Jarryd heard right. I only use Motorcraft slaves and masters and haven't ever had to replace one due to wear.
When I swapped the ZF5 I foolishly used a NIB O'Reilleys house rand slave and had to replace it after roughly one year of daily driving.
When I swapped the ZF5 I foolishly used a NIB O'Reilleys house rand slave and had to replace it after roughly one year of daily driving.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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how about the clutch slipping or smelling some when taking off in 2nd?any 1 else have that issue?this is my 1st zf iv owned. iv had 4spd before and they r solid.so far not to impressed with zf other then 5th gear helping on gas mileage.
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Master / Slave
The last one (lasted 2 1/2 years) was installed at a ford shop, but I was told that OEM parts weren't available anymore. Maybe that was just the clutch only, but I had it all replaced. I'll see if my mech can get an OEM slave. I'm getting tired of this particular problem. Anyone know of a conversion to outside the bell housing slave? Better yet, how about a conversion to a non hydraulic actuator? Really gravels my bum cause I just installed a new BW rollover.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
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ya its a pain in the a@@.the only way to get a outside slave is a bid block zf trans.but then the only motor it will fit is big block.im thinking of a big block swap.hope some 1 ealse has an idea.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,271
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From: Franklin, IN
There are no other ideas. Keep the hydraulics and use quality motorcraft components and you shouldn't have any issues.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
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From: Western Central NV
Somewhere in the second post here I asked that question. Using OEM parts is in most cases the best choice. They are built to a higher standard to meet the manufactures demand, not so much their specs. Believe me it Ford starts having problems with a parts manufactures they get it fixed, believe me.
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I think I'm going to buck the trend. The nearest Ford shop is 2 hours away. Local mechanic has a replacement with a lifetime warranty which covers parts and 75% labor. I called Ford and they have a 12 month 12k mile warranty - obviously my last repair is out of warranty. I'm going to chance it with the warranteed part and I'll let you know. Worth trying given the distance to a Ford shop.
I plan on sending this one down the road in a year or so. I need a heavier outfit, but I'm not pulling often enough to cover a diesel. My current F250 is getting tired. Not bad for costs - $1300 in repairs over the last 2 1/2 years ain't bad, but after fixing this problem 7 times it may be time to change. I'm a knot head though - I like a standard transmission, just like I like manual hubs: When I shift or lock them in, I know they're in. Thanks for your input!
How are the clutches in later F350s?
I plan on sending this one down the road in a year or so. I need a heavier outfit, but I'm not pulling often enough to cover a diesel. My current F250 is getting tired. Not bad for costs - $1300 in repairs over the last 2 1/2 years ain't bad, but after fixing this problem 7 times it may be time to change. I'm a knot head though - I like a standard transmission, just like I like manual hubs: When I shift or lock them in, I know they're in. Thanks for your input!
How are the clutches in later F350s?
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
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From: Roseville, MN
My '85 F-250 has an NP435 with (I think) a 3.34:1 2nd gear. With 3.55 gears and 33" tires it worked fine on easy starts, but I'd smell the clutch if I was trying to get into a small hole in traffic.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
So your truck in 2nd gear is just a little taller than my '85 F-250 was. I'd think you should be able to make easy starts empty without smelling your clutch, but it wouldn't surprise me if you'd heat it up pretty good making hard starts, or using 2nd gear with a load.