When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
But it was designed to be centered when the thermostat opens. It isn't. I'm going to find out what has changed, and fix it.
Leaving the stock gauge all catty-whompus and mounting an autometer electric gauge under the dash doesn't fix the stock gauge.
What overheat light are you talking about?
Is it the "engine warning" or " check gauges" light?
Pretty sure there's a little module that switches on that light.
Also, your colleagues at Ford designed the coolant and oil gauges to read vaguely normal most of the time so as not to alarm us dumb farmers.
Even the fuel gauge has a slosh module so we Neanderthals don't panic when we go round a bend or up a hill.
The stock gauges are not accurate.
No, I didn't use the scientific method to prove my hypotheses.
I have seen Ford oil pressure gauges read dead normal at 140psi. Enough to pump the cam followers up and open all the valves. Whoopsie!!
I don't know how to say "factory gauges suck" in engineer, but it doesn't matter cuz you won't listen to a knuckle dragger like me anyway.
I would just replace the sender, if I was confident that was the problem.
But the gauge and the idiot light appear to agree with each other, and I'm currently under the assumption that they are fed by different sensors: a variable resistance sender for the gauge, and a switch for the idiot light.
So... the engineer in me needs to figure this out. I'm too stubborn to just write "Electron Magic" in a cloud shape, call it my troubleshooting, and install aftermarket gauges.
No sir. I'll be sitting down with a magnifying glass, a case of my best thinking-man's juice (Busch light), and some wiring diagrams I got off of Google that I will blindly accept as accurate. This system is... elementary.
-Matt
i can save you the trouble there too Matt.
the over temp sensor that triggers the check engine light is located up on the drivers side head.up behind the power steering pump.take a look.you'll see the sensor in clear view with a wire.now,when this sensor triggers the light,then it also peggs the idiot gauge needle.
so if you see the check engine light flickering and it's causing the temp needle to swing up too high,then start by inspecting the wire on this over heat temp sensor and if that checks out,then might be able to test the sensor if you can find out what the proper resistance value is suppose to be,or simply toss it and replace it as that is most likely the issue.
all that said,the oem oil pressure and water temps are unhooked in both of my trucks so as not to waste my glance time when it's time to check the accurate number readings on my autometers.
Originally Posted by MPoulson
I don't know how to say "factory gauges suck" in engineer, but it doesn't matter cuz you won't listen to a knuckle dragger like me anyway.
I dont know how many lights there are, but im starting to suspect that there is a light tied in with the gauge that if it reads so many volts, or w/ever the hell it reads, so that if the gauge is hot, it also triggers the check gauges light. BUT im pretty sure there is an independant idiot light that has its own sender that says "Engine temp" or similar. I dont know which is which, but i remember some of what i just explained from wiring in the 7.3 gauges / wiring into my 79. The 89 guage wouldnt work without going through its associated idiot light. The secondayr idiot light is the big plug. My guess is its your temp sender or ground, or combination of the two. Check the connection at the sender, and i would just replace it.
Youre like me it seems, drives me nuts to have gauges and not use them. My eventual plan is to send the water an oil gauges off to isspro and have 1/4 sweep steppers installed. However, in the mean time my factory gauge is plenty accurate for me, and rest assured it does work, and fairly accurately too.
But, Hairy, that looks like a great deal. Do you personally have experience with either the Champion radiator or that Ebay seller? Thanks,
Roy
I dont, but seems there have been quite a few guys on here and OBN that have em and like em. Ive heard of one bad story, started leakin after a year or so and they sent him a new one. Im definately buying one for mine here in the near future.
That champion radiator won't fit my core support, I have the 15x37 non-AC radiator.
But if I were going to replace it, I'd be going with the copper/brass aftermarket by Spectra Premium. $300 at autozone.com right now with their 20% off sale.
I dont, but seems there have been quite a few guys on here and OBN that have em and like em. Ive heard of one bad story, started leakin after a year or so and they sent him a new one. Im definately buying one for mine here in the near future.