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Rough idle and acceleration

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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Rough idle and acceleration

I have a 1973 F-100, with a rebuilt 351 Cleveland in it. The truck idles rough and when I drive it, the acceleration isn't smooth.

I had this problem before the rebuild. I have new plugs (gapped), wires, coil, distributor, distributor cap, points (dwell at 26) and rotor. The carb is not new (but was rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago).

I can not get this motor to idle or run smooth. See video.


What are the top 3 or 4 things I should look at?

Alex
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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30,000 miles on a carb means it's probably about time for another rebuild. A carb kit is cheap and easy enough to do just to rule that out.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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I'm leaning toward buying a new/ bigger carb to add a bit of power, so I might as well, just to rule that out.

How do you feel about Pertronix no points systems? I was thinking going that route too, just to rule out points being the problem.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 08:11 PM
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What carb are you running and at what fuel pressure?
What is your initial timing? Total mechanical advance?
Do your idle mixture screws work? Have you tried to clear them?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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missing, carb settings, vaccum leak.............


Engine Tuning Using a Vacuum Gauge
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pickenspolitics
I'm leaning toward buying a new/ bigger carb to add a bit of power, so I might as well, just to rule that out.

How do you feel about Pertronix no points systems? I was thinking going that route too, just to rule out points being the problem.
Carb, not enough info to make a suggestion.

Pertronix is decent stuff but why bother when you can put on a better stock DSII system. Just need to grab a stock box and dizzy and wire it up. I'm not sure off the top of my head if any Clevelands had DSII stock but the dizzy is the same as any 351M/400 or 460 so any DSII dizzy from one of them will work.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Is the choke working properly? I had a heck of a time trying to figure out what was wrong with my 4.9L, and it ended up being the automatic choke was dead. A manual choke fixed it, and it runs like a champ
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pickenspolitics
Watched the vid, in person I could fix this in 10 minutes.

It's tuning related, tell me how you are tuning it?

Ignore that the timing is high, is it stable, I bet it isn't?

Where did you plug in the vacuum advance?

Got a vacuum gauge?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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The distributor could be "tired".......meaning time for a complete disassembly & rebuild....it will cause those exact symptoms.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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At idle I sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold and the idle did not change.

I then put a vaccum gauage on the motor. At idle it was 17 on the gauage and was consistent. At 2,000 RPM it was 22 and consistent.

Does it sound like it is tight?

It has a new distributor in it.

It is a Eldelbrock 1406 carb. I plug in the vaccum advance (looking at the front of the motor), on the lower left.

Tuning. I put new plugs in and wires and set the points to about .017. I put a dwell meter on it and kept adjusting the points until it settled at 26 degrees (the book calls for 24 to 29). The timing I did by feel. The motor is rebuilt with a RV cam. If I time it to specs, it is way to retarded, so I kept moving the timing forward until it had trouble starting and then backed it off and I found a spot where it sounded smooth and started with just a quick turn of the key.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pickenspolitics
At idle I sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold and the idle did not change.

I then put a vaccum gauage on the motor. At idle it was 17 on the gauage and was consistent. At 2,000 RPM it was 22 and consistent.

Does it sound like it is tight?

It has a new distributor in it.

It is a Eldelbrock 1406 carb. I plug in the vaccum advance (looking at the front of the motor), on the lower left.

Tuning. I put new plugs in and wires and set the points to about .017. I put a dwell meter on it and kept adjusting the points until it settled at 26 degrees (the book calls for 24 to 29). The timing I did by feel. The motor is rebuilt with a RV cam. If I time it to specs, it is way to retarded, so I kept moving the timing forward until it had trouble starting and then backed it off and I found a spot where it sounded smooth and started with just a quick turn of the key.
yes, that's what you needed to do........when you change the cam profile, it changes the timing specs way off from the oem......as long as the engine does not ping, you are good to go!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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It still has the problem with a rough idle and during acceleration. What do you suggest?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 12:24 AM
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Carb tune, how are you setting the carb?

If you unplug the vacuum advance what happens?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:00 AM
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Tuning the carb: I screw in each screw until it slows the idle. I then back out 1/4 turn until the idle is maximum. I do that for both screws.

When I unplug the vaccum advance, it doesn't change anything, not the idle or the timing.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:26 AM
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I just double checked it with the timing light. When I give it gas, the timing advances. At idle, when I unplug the vaccum advance, the timing doesn't change at all.
 
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