Need a little help...I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed. Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Any idea where to start troubling shooting this problem?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Thanks in advance for your help/ideas.<o></o>
Robert <o></o>

 

You need to check fuel pressure performance first.
When you repeatedly turn the key on and off it runs the fuel pump for about 1 second each time.
Put gauge on and observe the pressure build up.
It should not take more than two key cycles to build to near 30 psi.
.
Normally at first key on before cranking, a good amount of pressure builds.
At cranking the pump is turned on full time and quickly completes the build against the regulator.
.
If this does not happen starting become longer and longer and wears on the starter and battery unduly plus the excessive alternator charging to recover the battery charge after starting.
At repeated cranking the battery voltage drops making the pump action even worse.
Also consider moisture in the gas. Use 1 gas treatment for that (not injector cleaner) in near full tank. Using to much will affect the fuel tables until it is run out.
Good luck.

 

I had the same problem in my 2000 F-150 it ended up being the choke was hanging up on me. So I gave it a few shots of starting fluid and it never did it again.

 

Choke!
No fuel injection motor uses a choke.
Cold and hot starts are all under computer control.
The throttle plate does not move and the intake air 'opens' for raised idle.
To put it another way there is no choking action to draw fuel out of a bowl like a carburetor needs to do for cold starts..
The fuel injection is increased to take the place of a choking action.
What you might have done is loosen up the intake air controller (IAC) so it would go to high idle.
Good luck.

 

Sorry I'm a newbie that's what a guy at work told me it was. Since it worked I believed him sorry again I'll better research my replies from now on.

 

I just went through the same thing,, it's the fuel pump.. Till you get a chance to replace it carry a BIG rubber mallot with you and when it doesn't start bang on the gas tank.. This will turn the pump motor to a good spot on the armicure.. I did this for a few weeks till we got snow.. Took it in yesterday and had a new pump installed,, $600.00..

 

It's been a while since I've posted on here.

2001 F150 SuperCrew
4.6l
337k miles

Truck runs great with no problems idling or accelerating.

Fuel pressure drops to zero within two seconds after turning key off. The key needs to be on KO engine off for about two seconds and then it starts fine. I clamped (pinched) the fuel return line past the fuel regulator and pressure holds for at least two hours (which is much longer than two seconds!) So I figure it's not a leaky injector or a fuel pump check valve since the pressure is holding. I replace the fuel pressure regulator with one from Advance auto parts and have the exact same issue, what gives? Any ideas to start on?

 

I think it IS the fuel pump check valve leaking.

 

Just a question.. If it is a defective fuel pump check valve, why would pressure hold on the rails when the fuel return line is clamped? Puzzled....

 

I think it maybe the result of you 'dead heading' the whole line with the return clamped off.
The pump is capable of nearly 100 psi. This is why special high pressure line is used on the feed side.
When clamped off like this and no leak down path, the check valve may hold near 100% from the closed high system pressure when the pump goes stalled and power removed.
Same as a valve stem in a tire holds pressure against it's rubber seat after air application is removed.
At the lower pressure from the regulator action at about 35 psi and the open return line, the check valve may not hold.
When [you] do this there is only one path for the pressure to escape and that is back through the check valve or a leak at some other point such as the filter or the feed line has a pin hole in it.
If the check valve is rubber or some soft material it will seal harder from the higher pressure than from the lower pressure from the regulator operation, in that kind of situation.
Normally, the regulator discharges the fuel rail pressure at rated rail pressure and bypasses the rest back to the tank such that the feed pressure never gets to the very high pressures the pump is capable of so you see the leakdown.
Without thinking this through considering the physics of it, it would be puzzling.
Good luck.

 

Because the check valve is in the tank on the fuel pump assembly.

 

Bluegrass7:
That makes sense and I had not thought of that. (duh) Is there a way to check the fuel pump check valve for your idea? Preferably before I yank the tank?

Thank you