No start! Leaking oil.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Checked fuse # 30 and its good.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
A passenger side oil leak could kill a starter.
I have had to change 2 starters out in trucks due to fluid contamination...
One was oil... the other was fuel.
Try arcing the posts on the selonoid. If it still no go spin then its probably dead.
A lot of guys will tell you to go with oem and steer clear of parts house starters...
I say hogwash...
I have a napa starter in Motorbug and it hasnt given me a hiccup in over a year.
I have had to change 2 starters out in trucks due to fluid contamination...
One was oil... the other was fuel.
Try arcing the posts on the selonoid. If it still no go spin then its probably dead.
A lot of guys will tell you to go with oem and steer clear of parts house starters...
I say hogwash...
I have a napa starter in Motorbug and it hasnt given me a hiccup in over a year.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
I removed the burnt starter and took it up to Orielly's and got a new one. Popped it in and was securing nut to the small ignition wire and the post and all snapped off and was just hanging by the wire. these remans are crap!! anyway, I went and picked up another one here in town and installed it. The truck still doesnt crank. I'm guessing it's the relay inside the truck on the fuse panel, or the glow plug controller. Once I find the culprit, my plan is to keep the reman starter until I can locate the oil leak. That way this oil leak doesnt burn up a good starter lol!! once that is fixed, I will remove the reman starter and go with an OEM starter, Unless I find out about a better one in the mean time. Thanks for the replies on this one guys. More troubleshooting to come tomorrow.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
well, here some pics I managed to take tonight. They aren't the best and I'm not sure they will help, but I figured it's worth a shot. Thanks for looking.
underside near the starter
another-as you can see, the leak doesn't look too bad from down here.
the next four are shots from the top of the motor. even though I've had my truck for 5 years now, I have yet to learn what all the parts and pieces are here. I know where the turbo, intake spider, and fuel bowl are and that's about it lol. Anybody got a good diagram of any of the parts shown below in the pics?
as you can see, there is definitely some oil caked in different areas in the pics. any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
underside near the starter
another-as you can see, the leak doesn't look too bad from down here.
the next four are shots from the top of the motor. even though I've had my truck for 5 years now, I have yet to learn what all the parts and pieces are here. I know where the turbo, intake spider, and fuel bowl are and that's about it lol. Anybody got a good diagram of any of the parts shown below in the pics?
as you can see, there is definitely some oil caked in different areas in the pics. any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
everything in the cab turns on fine. HIDs are just as bright as normal. I know the head lights would dim if the batteries were dead. all connections are clean as well.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Looks like you might have a weepy leak at the exhaust back pressure valve actuator on the turbo pedistal. The rest of the oily caking up top looks like normal oil seepage from the intake boots. Now would be a good time to pull it all apart... clean the shinola out of it... reassemble... and check for boost leaks.
If you are getting what seems like really thin oil leaking down... it may be fuel mixing with the crud in the valley... darkening up... and making you think oil leak. The passenger side fuel line feeding the backside of the head is known to wear through and leak at the clamp just in front of the turbo... on the passenger side head.
Simple green.
Lots of it.
Let it sit and dissolve the crud...
Cover the intake/air filter so it dont get wet...
Then use garden hose pressure to rinse.
Do Not Ever Use A Pressure Washer !
Once you get the engine clean... you will be able to see where its bleeding.
Would a surgeon do his/her thing without cleaning/prepping the patient?
If you are getting what seems like really thin oil leaking down... it may be fuel mixing with the crud in the valley... darkening up... and making you think oil leak. The passenger side fuel line feeding the backside of the head is known to wear through and leak at the clamp just in front of the turbo... on the passenger side head.
Simple green.
Lots of it.
Let it sit and dissolve the crud...
Cover the intake/air filter so it dont get wet...
Then use garden hose pressure to rinse.
Do Not Ever Use A Pressure Washer !
Once you get the engine clean... you will be able to see where its bleeding.
Would a surgeon do his/her thing without cleaning/prepping the patient?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Been there and had this problem. You have a 2002 just like me so let me help you out a bit.
The starter relay on the 02's was moved inside the cabin in the main fuse panel. I can't remember which one, but it's in the manual.
The trip wire for the starter is located on the passenger side behind the battery. It's really easy to disconnect the wire, make a jumper wire and see if the starter will turn over.
If this happens, then your relay in the fuse panel is likely bad. If the starter still won't turn over then your starter is bad. You can also check the voltage to going to the starter relay at this point behind the passenger battery.
If that voltage checks out, you could have a physical starter issue, I had that and a bad relay in the fuse panel. I now have a Napa starter and a spare relay in the truck. All has been good.
I'll look for my old post where I had this issue back in May. If I can find it I have pics and videos in there to help out. But just realize the 02's are different from the older model years.
The starter relay on the 02's was moved inside the cabin in the main fuse panel. I can't remember which one, but it's in the manual.
The trip wire for the starter is located on the passenger side behind the battery. It's really easy to disconnect the wire, make a jumper wire and see if the starter will turn over.
If this happens, then your relay in the fuse panel is likely bad. If the starter still won't turn over then your starter is bad. You can also check the voltage to going to the starter relay at this point behind the passenger battery.
If that voltage checks out, you could have a physical starter issue, I had that and a bad relay in the fuse panel. I now have a Napa starter and a spare relay in the truck. All has been good.
I'll look for my old post where I had this issue back in May. If I can find it I have pics and videos in there to help out. But just realize the 02's are different from the older model years.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
You got it, no starter click at all. Only thing i can hear is the relays under the dash click.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Looks like you might have a weepy leak at the exhaust back pressure valve actuator on the turbo pedistal. The rest of the oily caking up top looks like normal oil seepage from the intake boots. Now would be a good time to pull it all apart... clean the shinola out of it... reassemble... and check for boost leaks.
If you are getting what seems like really thin oil leaking down... it may be fuel mixing with the crud in the valley... darkening up... and making you think oil leak. The passenger side fuel line feeding the backside of the head is known to wear through and leak at the clamp just in front of the turbo... on the passenger side head.
Simple green.
Lots of it.
Let it sit and dissolve the crud...
Cover the intake/air filter so it dont get wet...
Then use garden hose pressure to rinse.
Do Not Ever Use A Pressure Washer !
Once you get the engine clean... you will be able to see where its bleeding.
Would a surgeon do his/her thing without cleaning/prepping the patient?
If you are getting what seems like really thin oil leaking down... it may be fuel mixing with the crud in the valley... darkening up... and making you think oil leak. The passenger side fuel line feeding the backside of the head is known to wear through and leak at the clamp just in front of the turbo... on the passenger side head.
Simple green.
Lots of it.
Let it sit and dissolve the crud...
Cover the intake/air filter so it dont get wet...
Then use garden hose pressure to rinse.
Do Not Ever Use A Pressure Washer !
Once you get the engine clean... you will be able to see where its bleeding.
Would a surgeon do his/her thing without cleaning/prepping the patient?
Thanks for the info. Would this cause a no crank condition?
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
So just to catch you guys up on what I have done so far to troubleshoot, here it is:
1. replaced starter
2. Looked for obvious oil leak(still trying to locate it)
3. relay #307 checked out fine. I also swapped it with the blower motor relay and got the same result
4. Tried starting it in neutral
5. checked the connection on my DP tuner switch(had problems with it before coming disconnected)
6. added 2 quarts of oil(it was 2 quarts low and someone in another forum mentioned being really low on oil could cause a no crank condition. Figured it couldn't hurt anything at this point)
7. Scanned the puter for codes and received a code p1389, "glow plug circuit high side, low voltage".
8. checked fuse #30.
I only have one more day to troubleshoot and Then I'll be heading to New Zealand for three weeks. If I don't get it fixed before that, It will have to wait. But I'd rather fix it now and not have to worry about it while on vacation and when I get back.
thanks for all the help guys. I know it may be frustrating dealing with an newb mechanic. I really appreciate all the advice.
1. replaced starter
2. Looked for obvious oil leak(still trying to locate it)
3. relay #307 checked out fine. I also swapped it with the blower motor relay and got the same result
4. Tried starting it in neutral
5. checked the connection on my DP tuner switch(had problems with it before coming disconnected)
6. added 2 quarts of oil(it was 2 quarts low and someone in another forum mentioned being really low on oil could cause a no crank condition. Figured it couldn't hurt anything at this point)
7. Scanned the puter for codes and received a code p1389, "glow plug circuit high side, low voltage".
8. checked fuse #30.
I only have one more day to troubleshoot and Then I'll be heading to New Zealand for three weeks. If I don't get it fixed before that, It will have to wait. But I'd rather fix it now and not have to worry about it while on vacation and when I get back.
thanks for all the help guys. I know it may be frustrating dealing with an newb mechanic. I really appreciate all the advice.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 5
have you bypassed wiring/starter solinoid relay on firewall,using jumper to comfirm the starter is capable of turning over the engine,whats your voltage of batteries after resting overnite & while cranking with glowplugs timed out,thats if you get it to crank. the only way I know how to get to the bottom of these problems is breaking down each component by process of elimination,other words if starter wont crank engine then bypass everything down the line & start at jumping the starter & working backwards from there.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
I've already replaced the starter and the wires looked good.