I've been using this great site to help me with my 2001 Excursion. It has a gas V10 and is 4wd. I purchased it used in April of 2013 when my 2000 F150 transmission gave out on me.

Since then I have come to realize the price in fuel that this vehicle consumes. I have researched different things and finally broke down, spending the money on a HHO system that I put together.

I have not seen anything good on this site in reference to HHO, so I registered tonight so I could post my results. When I bought the vehicle I have always averaged 12.5mpg plus or minus 1-2 mpg.

When I 1st installed HHO I averaged 14.5mpg, again there is always a 1-2mpg variable depinding on driving style and where I go. I later realized a flaw in my OBD Fuel Chip that it could not do what it said it could.

So I bought a seperate fuel computer specifically for HHO and after several hours of tuning it jumped in mileage. I took the vehicle to town and back resetting the mileage on my street when I left. When I arrived home (approx 80miles total) I was at 21.0mpg on my ultra gauge.

Over the past month I have averaged at min 20.2 up to 22.0 mpg. I haven't pulled the boat with it yet to compare that, but normal everyday driving that I do has seriously increased.

I will try to post pictures later on my setup. I prefer not to advertise any products that I have purchased or endorse any product on this site. I'd be more than happy to answer questions that anyone may have. I would also like to see what others have done in reference to HHO on their vehcile.

Thanks,
Chad

 

22 MPG in a gasser... SHARE YOUR SECRETS WITH US OH LORD

 

I'd be more than happy too. Keep in mind to do this right its expensive. When I did the math on how much I drive I figured it would pay for it self in 6 months. Plus with such a large engine, you need a much larger generator.

Dry Cell
6 qt resevoir
3 qt bubbler
KOH electrolyte
PWM preferably CCPWM
ammeter
temp gauge
Fuel Computer
Misc wire 8ga, 16ga, terminals, fuse, hose, check valves, wire ties, ect
several relays

Ill get some pics up so it will make more sense. The real key to better mileage is tuning. I run 15-16amps in my generator and 28%koh. I don't have an accurate way to measure my generators output and I don't believe anything people advertise when they sale them on lpm output.

I intially spent around 800bucks to get started on a dry cell setup. I have since spent more, but again it will pay for itself. You can always go wet cell (mason type jar) but keep in mind you HAVE to tune the fuel maps in the vehicle including the timing maps, retarding it to see any gain. Also having the engine in good working order is vital, faulty sensors or plugs will not allow you to yield good results.

A scan gauge is also key, you need a base line on the following:
MPG
Engine Temp
Intake Air Temp
Timing
Fuel Trim long & short
Map
02

When I tuned mine, I modified all sensors to agree so it would stay in closed loop mode. The scan gauge verifies that as well. Once it goes in open loop for any reason the vehicle utilizes preprogrammed maps and ignores the vehicles sensors.

The trick is when you modify all sensors to agree. If you only modify the O2's for example or only the MAP, the computer will realize that something is wrong and Open Loop the vehicle. Sounds complicated but its quite simple once you get into it.

There are easy ways to modify these through a purchased computer or you can modify each sensor on your own through simple electronic parts bought at radio shack. The web is full of info on it, and if you want to do it cheap, the wet cell and homemade tuning is the way to go.

I have a babysitter that drives my vehicle several days a week to get my kids from school so I had to have a self automated system. By that my system only kicks on when:
1. There is oil pressure
2. The engine is up to temp
3. The system switch is "ON''....it stays on....

Thats where all of the relays kick in. Also if a wreck was to happen, and the engine shuts off with the key on, it will shut down so its not producing hho when the key is on, hence the oil pressure switch.

I did add a way for the system to drain itself of any excess moisture from entering the engine through a check valve so thats one less thing I worry about. The reason for the large resivoir an bubbler is the same thing. most use 1 - 3 qt. I have so much solution it will be months before I have to top it off. Less maintanence the better!

 

IS your mpg hand calculated, if your using the overhead display it is optimistic! Your injecting hydrogen though the intake? Making it with a water based solution & electric current?

 

This is the first time I have heard someone claim it worked first hand.

 

This might help; Why on-board hydrogen generators won't boost your mileage

 

With all do respect, this thread is not for posting internet findings of why it will or will not work. It does work very well and I use it every single day. This was intended for those interested in it or for those who don't believe and have legit questions on what I did to get such good results.

Enough of that...

I don't use the overhead console for MPG, that's a waste of time. I have been using the ultragauge that is normally with 1mpg of actual. After Christmas I will again compare the results off of a full tank. To much expense going out right now to drop a 150 on a tank of gas.

I will say that during my 1st 5 or so miles the system will not kick on because of the temp gauge I installed. During that time my ultragauge still reads normal mileage "prehho".

Also I'd imagine that not all of my gains are just from the HHO, some would have to be from better tuning of the a/f.

In the pics it's hard to see me reservoir & bubbler from the outside of the front grill. I didn't have time to pop off the grill but they are visible to the human eye. I took a pic from the top in the engine bay. Please forgive the dirt, I took the kids 4wd on Sunday.

Also only the temp gauge is on in the pics, reason why is I don't want it idling in the drive until it hits normal operating temp so my relays can turn everything on. I'll get another picture probably tomorrow night when I drive it again of everything lit up. And the TEMP Gauge in the dash is the "solution" temp in the reservoir.

When I refer to engine temp, I actually have a N.O. 95*F switch on the radiator hose, not the vehicles factory temp gauge. I initially had a switch that kicked the system on at 190*F, but it was taking way to long for that rubber hose to get the switch that hot. When the hose gets this switch 95*F, then engine is hot, thermostat opened, and then it heats it up for the HHO to kick on.

If I were to turn on the HHO before the engine was warm, it may not start on a cold day, or run rough until normal temp. Reason being is that I modified the engine temp & Intake Air Temp. It won't supply enough fuel for the cold air initially.

 

What you are describing is impossible, The HHO system would have to be more than 100% efficient for it to make any gains. This doesn't take any other losses into the equation. If this was possible we would have a free unlimited energy source, they don't even have that in the movies unless you consider Chain Reaction a movie.

 

I didn't answer all of your question, Sorry.

Yes it's injected through the intake. Mine is a little different where I placed it. If you look in the pictures I have a tee that takes it pre throttle body and post, so there is always vacuum on it. It does make me idle a little higher than normal. In the pic its around 900rpm i believe, but I just started the engine for the ultragauge to be on in the pic.

Yes distilled water with KOH at a weight ratio of 28%. (KOH gives the water less resistance) I then tune my amperage draw with the PWM (blue device) to a specific current draw. Under my ultragauge is a ammeter. I will be upgrading my PWM to a CCPWM that is set to a specific amp draw and it keeps it there.

Thats the only thing not truely automated on my system. If there is a change in outside temp, it directly affects the current draw on my generator. Colder solution = less amp draw while hotter = more. Thats where the Constant Current PWM comes into play.

Other systems don't use one. They set their solution lets say at 10%KOH. It has more resistance and keeps the amp draw low, but again the hotter it gets the more amp draw. Called thermal runaway, because the generator will heat up the solution. It would take a while normally to get there so not everyone uses a PWM or CCPWM to control amp draw.

I hope that makes sense.

Several things you can't see in the pictures. I have a tee before the intake as well. Any moisture that comes into the line from the bubbler will go down into the tee "which is the lowest point in the line" out through a check valve. draining itself.

I also have 2 more tees with a valve that I use to drain the reservoir and a separate one for the bubbler which is only distilled water. Again all tees are at the lowest point in the system.

There are also numerous check valves which you can see in some of the pics, they all have a purpose that I won't get into yet, more of an install type question.

 

Not true.... My gas engine or my HHO isn't 100% efficient, I am capitalizing on that. I'm using a minute amount of hho to get BETTER EFFICIENCY (not 100%) on my gas, which is where my gains come from.

My EX doesn't "run on water''. However it does get more energy from the gas it is already burning. At least that's my understanding. I think you are confused in the fact that people think cars run on HHO, maybe some do? Don't know / don't care.... But understand mine doesn't, let's call HHO on my system an additive.

As soon as someone has tried it (assuming they knew what they were doing) and it didn't work then post your findings, I'd be very interested in hearing on your setup. Till then the net is full of it doesn't or does work, including a study by NASA.

 

I guess the part that is hard for me to swallow is the fact you are using what looks to be a few hundred dollars in materials along with a backyard understanding of how it works and gaining 30-50% better gas mileage.

Yet, not one manufacturer (many with multi million dollar R&D departments) has been able to figure out how to make it work, which would translate into BILLIONS in profits for them. Huh, who woulda figured!

 

It is what it is, I'm not in the HHO industry making money, or the car manufacturing industry. I feel your pain though and asked myself the same questions, but in the end I had to do something to help with the cost of fuel.

I live 30miles from Panama City. Usually i put 80miles a trip to town, but more often than not I go to a small town twice a day to get my kids from school. Even that was eating my lunch on fuel cost.

My pastor at Fountain Baptist Curch, Doug Sanders, tried a simple wet cell on a 70's model chev truck with a 350 in it. He gets 10mpg on the hwy, now he gets 13mpg but he hasn't had time to retard his timing or back his carb off on fuel. He is obviously hoping for a little better results, and is in the works of a better wet cell. He might have 50bucks in his setup, so mpg per dollar, he defintely has me beat.

Timing is key because flame propegation. With our electric timing advance, this will ignite before the piston reaches the top, and detonate or ping making it fight against itself. For gasoline that is a complex molocule thats fine, but hydrogen is very simple and very explosive. thats whats helping it burn more of the existing fuel.

Keep in mind there is more to HHO than made to believe, its not plug and play. If u try that u will not see results, Ill say it again and again TUNING!!!

 

I'm willing to bet it's all tuning in where you are seeing the gains.

Lean any thing out, and time it proper your milage will climb alot.

 

Your right, I guess the question is how much is the hho helping vs the a/f ratio? I will say this, I'm certain the hho is making a difference.

Same with the power gain I'm seeing, proper tuning will show the same effect. If I was willing I'd pull the power to the generator to find out, however I know the effects of a lean engine, and I'm not willing to possibly cause severe engine damage to see exactly how much the difference is.

Keep in mind that HHO will allow you to run a slightly leaner mix to begin with, so if I take all of it away I will have to add some fuel.

 

This and spoofing several sensors that feed info to the Ultra-gauge = unreliable readings. I have used an Ultrs-Gauge on my EX for over 3 years and I also hand calculate every tank's MPG, I have seen variation of up to 20% between the two beased on what I was doing on that tank. MPG results are only valid when identical full tank fills are used as the standard, way too much variation in partial tank fills.
I had a 16 MPG tank back when I still had the factory tune, stock tires and 3.73 gears on a very hot day and mostly highway miles, I'm sure pushing it towards lean and adjusting timing would have pushed it up near to if not to 20 MPG.
Good luck with your system, you seem to like it. I would suggest you post up your finding over at ecomodder.com also, that community is much more centered on high MPG modding.