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Ok, what's the secret to getting the OEM fuel filter/gasket to properly seat without spraying fuel all over under the hood? After trying many different things, and still ending up with a 50% fail rate, I've switched over to Purolater brand, which has a flat gasket instead of a v shaped one, and has a plastic nut on top which enables me to snug it down precisely. But it bugs me that I can't figure it out. What's the secret?
Get it warm...lube it up with diesel of course. Install on top of bowl bevel up. Put the cap on...screw it so it's snug...then unscrew it...then again just so its snug...ahh just tighten it already. Whew hope that helps.
My process is exactly as described above, and I've only ever gotten sprayed like 2 times out of dozens. I usually tighten it up pretty good.
Do you like the Purolator? It seems so cheap to me, and I don't like that it doesn't have the cloth screen on the outside of the filter.
Ok. Well, I usually lube it up, put it on, and then either hand tight, like an oil filter, or tap it tighter with a screwdriver and hammer. Never bothered warming it up, or putting it on, off and back on again. I'll have to give it a shot. The Puralator was $38, which seemed like more than normal to me, but I was in a hurry, wanting to hear my engine fire for the first time since I put it back in the truck. I honestly didn't even really look at the quality of it next to an OEM.
I just had the same issues with my Racor the other day. They package the seal in such a bad way that it is severely ovaled especially after sitting outside in the mail. It took me 3-4 tries to get it to not leak.
If the bowl is completely full of fuel, it will hydrolock when you try to cap it... I just mention it and I'm not saying this is your issue. I would never go with anything that doesn't have that "special" water protection on the outside of the filter.
I've switched over to Purolater brand, which has a flat gasket instead of a v shaped one, and has a plastic nut on top which enables me to snug it down precisely.
I've spent lotsa time searching parts houses till I find a filter that DOES'NT have their stupid cap attached IOT retain my stock filter cap.
Some part jockeys will say, "Oh, just remove the cap first, then install it"
Sure Sparkey, here, you remove it. Ot oooooh.
If the bowl is completely full of fuel, it will hydrolock when you try to cap it... I just mention it and I'm not saying this is your issue. I would never go with anything that doesn't have that "special" water protection on the outside of the filter.
Which part are you talking about?
To the OPs question....I just lube the o-ring and tighten the lid by hand. I then turn on the key to pressurize the bowl and see if there are any leaks. Most times it seals just fine. Every once in a while I have to turn it another 1/8th turn or so. I haven't used any tools to tighten (or loosen) the filter cap for several years now....
Remove old stuff. Install new element. Lube new oring. Set oring inside top rim of housing. Install and tighten cap. Twelve changes on three different 7.3's in the past 7 years without a single leak.
The Wix one I just bought and installed has a flat washer and a large hex head molded into the cover. No issues sealing. The Wix I replaced was so tightly installed, I broke the hex part, had to uninstall the fuel bowl assy and get it in a vise to get the cover off. Awesome design.
Whatever kind I bought at Napa last time was kinda nice it has a 1" nut at the top and I had no issues when it came to leaks.... I'm in the same boat as the OP hit and miss. That filter was $40+ but I was in a hurry and also buying filters for the hutch mod.
I REALLY don't like the filter caps with the large nut molded in the top. We have had our fuel bowl split open twice by an over eager mechanic who tightened that lid way too much. In both cases the shop covered the repairs on their own dime but we had some down time as a result. Now-a-days, when it comes to our Power Stroke trucks....I keep all the filters in stock and I hire a mobile mechanic to come change the fluids and filters. This forces them to use the filters that I choose vs whatever they get from NAPA or wherever.
Of course I wrench on my personal vehicle myself....nobody else touches those things but me.
Remove old stuff. Install new element. Lube new oring. Set oring inside top rim of housing. Install and tighten cap. Twelve changes on three different 7.3's in the past 7 years without a single leak.
Same here except 6 years with my truck and 10 with dads. Not to rub salt into the cut. I read all the time about folks having issues and i don't understand it. But maybe it is in the process, i have always lubed orings and I always leave the drain open until i am finished. Maybe it is the hydro lock issues as said above. When screwing on the cap it will build a little bit of pressure pushing the seal out of position. Not sure, But that is how i have always done it. Dad has the aftermarket filter w/cap. I still have the original stand alone oem cap.
Maybe the hydro lock is my problem. I usually drain the bowl 1/2 way, shut the valve and re install. I can see where someone may get over eager with that but on top, but I don't let anyone else work on my engine, so I'm gentle, but firm with it. I do lube the ring, in fact that's partly why I drain the bowl 1/2 way. I dip the ring into the diesel that's left so the whole thing is damp, let it drip dry into the bowl about 5-10 seconds, and reinstall. It's not a huge deal, as if it's causing me down time, but def a thorn in my side that I have pulled both my engines, done countless repairs to rhem, but yet, I can't consistently get the OEM filter on without it spraying everything down. I do keep the stick lids so I can go back whenever I want, but I just thought there may be some secret. I guess next time I'll drain the bowl all the way and leave the valve open til I'm done.
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