I have a 1960 F-250 with a 292 Y-block in it. The engine does not match the VIN in the glove compartment (VIN says 223), so I don't know if the glove box was replaced or the engine was.

Anyway, this engine is tapping and knocking and leaking and smoking and smelling - the knocking ("low" in the engine) is my main concern, as it's so freakin' loud I just can't imagine it's good to run like this.

I took it by a shop today that works on some friend's old trucks, and they basically said a 302 or Windsor 351 would be better, and would (for the most part) fit right in - maybe a new bell housing for the tranny and new carb, but all-in-all more power, newer and more available parts, and better gas mileage.

Here's the predicament - this truck will [probably] never haul or tow anything, and 95% of it's usage will be just to drive around town - I'd say < 10 mile trips. Kids will drive to school, church, store, etc - gas mileage is really not a critical factor, nor is horsepower actually.
[Note: I would like to be able to drive on highway if needed, and currently 50 mph is max - maybe it could go higher, but it's revving so high and knocking so loud, it's really pushing it]

I looked at some rebuild kits on the ford-y-block site, and at $1400 to $2400 that ain't happening. What are some good options? Again, gas mileage and hp really aren't selling factors for a new engine, but if the rebuild is that expensive maybe that's not the best way to go either.

Thanks for any advice...

 

If you could find a fox body with a 5.0 and a 5 SPD or newer crown vic with 4.6l and overdrive you would be doing real well,

D

 

There is no cheap way unless you find a deal on a good used Yblock. A 302 or 351 swap is not a drop in and will require more then a bellhousing. By the time you buy a good running engine and do the swap it will add up to a lot of $$$. Ask around the forum for people who have done it and what it takes to do.

 

Thanks, and to the prev post a 5.0 was mentioned as well. Another thing is the idea behind this truck is also as a project with the kids - I'd like to do what I can on my own - it's just I don't want to dump thousands and thousands into a rebuild, I was hoping it'd be less.

 

they way to tell if the glove box door has been replaced is to look for the VIN on the frame. It's located on the right upper frame rail just ahead of the firewall. If it matches, the Y isn't stock to the truck. Regardless, if you like the Y, have it rebuilt. Still a buncha money any way you go. A newer engine ends up being cheaper only if you find a good engine trans combo and you have a hankerin' for an overdrive trans. Ain't no cheap way to convert a stock 1960 engine to an overdrive.

 

Change the rear end. If you have a t98 4 speed you have enough gears. I'd investigate the oil pickup tube leaking air. Who knows how the engine was maintained by previous owner. Sludged up oil can wreak havoc if it gets in the right place

 

So, a couple months after posting this thread, I've done a bit of futzing with the engine - replace oil pan gasket, replace oil pump, cleaned up gunk off engine (as much as possible - mostly to see where leaks are coming from), and put in really heavy oil with some "miracle" additive. Also been adding lead to fuel.

The heavy oil and additive was a suggestion from a friend who said this would help the loud knocking. ...And it did, or at least quiet it for a while.

However, this 292 is still leaking like crazy, and the knocking is coming back since the oil level keeps dropping I guess. And from other posts, where it's leaking seems to mean a rear main seal is the culprit.



Anyway, I saw another post where someone has a 223 with 3sp for a few hundred dollars. Would this be a good option instead of what seems to be a ton of work needed on the 292? My truck still has orig rear end, have not researched if that will work with new tranny.

Thanks for any help, trying to figure out how to proceed without getting frustrated with this truck - does not seem like minor fixes/repairs are working...

 

IIRC the available gears in these was 3.70 and 3.89. As far as going with a 223, 3 speed, that's up to you. These trucks are 50 plus years old, so the chances of the 6 cyl being just as bad are quite good. Have you done a compression check or leak down check? While the pan was off, did you take a look at any of the main or rod bearings?

 

Currently a 4:11 in mine, or did you mean what's matched up with a 223? Also, I did also have the same thoughts regarding the 223 - and the owner just got back to me regarding the status - I won't be getting it, has some issues.

I have not done compression check, or leak down check. I did take some pics with the pan off - not sure what I'm looking for:





Thanks...

 

Another thing to look at; the heads are interchangeable from side to side. This leaves bolt holes open on the very back on the intake side. They take a 3/8-16 bolt. It is my understanding that some people have found these not installed. They weren't on my remanufactured, exchange engine. I promptly installed some 3/4 inch long bolts. If they're left open, it's a path for the oil to escape quickly while under pressure as when it's running. Time to crawl into the engine compartment and look