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I am so glad to hear you pulled the motor instead of doing something stupid like cutting the frame. Now as far as Moroso parts they are top of line parts. I have trusted Moroso parts for over 25 yrs and never had one let me down. I didn't know they made a pan for the Ford 7.3. And after reading the ad it does sound like they went the extra mile in coating it and it is American made. I'll bet when you get the OEM Ford pan the box will say made in Mexico. The only thing I don't like it doesn't come with the dip stick adapter. Also I have had good luck with Moroso oil pan gaskets in the past so I would say use their gasket instead of the RTV / goo.
Now the OEM pan is around $200 but then you could have it coated with bed liner or something like that. But if you do that make sure to tape off the flange where the bolts go. If you go that route before doing so you could have the dip stick adapter welded to the pan. Swamps welds them on the motors they build. Which is a great idea! No more leaks or the thing coming loose.
Also since you are this far into it I would just install a new dip stick adapter since the plate on the inside of the pan has been known to warp, if you go with the Moroso pan. That I would think about installing the welded piston oil jets Riffraff Diesel: Welded Piston Oil Jets
Let us know what you end up doing.
My only hesitation is with the gasket - they opinion of most is to use permatex BUT this Moroso gasket appears to be a unique and relatively new product. I can understand all the RTV failures with people trying to re-seal pans without the motor inverted and the surfaces prepped correctly. The gasket would be better in that situation.
Since I have the motor out, flipped, and clean I would expect RTV to work fine - but it looks like Moroso has put some thought into the pan design and the gasket. I'll probably go with their gasket since I'm using their pan.
I would definitely not put a factory pan on without doing some sort of aftermarket coating first. Mine had a new OEM pan right before a bought the truck a a few years ago... it already has some significant rust, and I hand-coat it with oil every oil change.
Were you able to remove the motor with your typical 2-ton engine hoist or do you have something bigger/better?
My only hesitation is with the gasket - they opinion of most is to use permatex BUT this Moroso gasket appears to be a unique and relatively new product. I can understand all the RTV failures with people trying to re-seal pans without the motor inverted and the surfaces prepped correctly. The gasket would be better in that situation.
Since I have the motor out, flipped, and clean I would expect RTV to work fine - but it looks like Moroso has put some thought into the pan design and the gasket. I'll probably go with their gasket since I'm using their pan.
On the subject of the Moroso pan gasket for the 7.3 I have yet to use one for the 7.3. I plan on using the Moroso gasket when I have to do my oil pan on my truck. I think the reason you don't hear of other guys using them is because I don't think they have been out that long and the cost scares most away. But I will go on the record again as saying I have used many of the Moroso pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets in my line of work and they make some very nice stuff. Great fit and don't leak as long as they are installed correctly and torqued to their specs. Now the material they use for the 7.3 gaskets is the same stuff FelPro uses in some of their gaskets and works great as long as you get it clean and dry and a small bead of RTV in the front and rear corners.
I had a boat this spring that had engines with cast oil pans that called for cork gaskets and have weird dip stick tube set up that was different on each engine. I called Moroso and they set me up with part #'s ordered them ordered them from Jegs. They came with new bolts that would not work with the cast pan so had to figure out what bolt length I needed and get new bolts. And on this boat the engines had to have the rear windows removed and the engines went in though the window openings so there was NO way I was going to want to pull these engines again due to an oil leak. Trust me when I say the USCG is real funny about oil leaks even in the boat. There are many other cases that Moroso parts have saved my butt.
Now as far as the RTV/ Goo goes I know the factory and many guys have very good luck with it. And maybe it is me but almost everytime I do a RTV gasket something goes wrong or a oil drops right when I am putting together and I end up with a leak. So I am not a big fan of RTV/ Goo gaskets. My Dana80 calls for a goo gasket per Ford but I found a real gasket for the Dana80 for a Dodge that works and no leaks and mind you I am running a chrome dif cover and I didn't want goo oozing out all around it. It just looks so unproffessional using RTV. I think the reason the factory uses RTV from the factory is it is cheaper and faster on a production line.
I'm liking that Moroso pan and gasket. I've got to do mine one of these days. It's not rusted out but the flange is cracked in the right rear. I've built a bandaid for it but I've got to fix it right eventually. I'm just afraid that once I get the motor out it'll be like Hmmm, should put new jets in, better look at the bearings, good time to do a cam, oh look ported heads, AAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGG.
I just went to Moroso's website and as I thought the 7.3 pan gasket is new to their line up I would guess to go along with their oil pan. But here are the installation instructions. http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/27293_inst.pdf
And Barney that is what I am afraid of when I go to do my oil pan. It will just Snowball into a full blown project. I actually have been thinking about getting a back up engine to prep and then take all my good parts off my old engine to make one good one. I think I am better off not even thinking about it so hopefully the oil pan will hang in there.
Still waiting for parts. Once I started doing my homework on what else to do while the motor was out it turned into a long list. I have the pan and gasket - they appear to be of high quality. The instructions do recommend using some RTV-type sealant in the corners and when prepping the surface I can see why - there are joints to contend with. I'll be bringing the motor into a heated space 24 hours prior to sealing up the pan - not taking any chances. Riff Raff Diesel was out of welded oil jets - as soon as he gets some welded up and here I'll be able to close up the bottom end of the motor and get the top end work done.
Who has tried the Moreso oil pan? I didn't like the overwrought write up in the KLM link that described it, but the point about why put in the same old stock pan that keeps rusting is well taken.
Subscribing, and hoping that by this time, a year later, someone has actually installed this aftermarket pan?
I used their gasket & a stock pan from RiffRaff when we pulled the engine in the excursion this past July. Followed the instructions, all surfaces clean, Sealant in the corners, their new studs, etc........leaks at the drivers side rear corner.
Borrowed an Idea from a fellow FTE member - loosened corner & surrounding bolts , used a long 3/8" extension and a small ball peen hammer to tap the corner Sheet metal tighter into the gasket. 99% better but still an occasional drop. Oh, well - just my luck.......
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