OK Guys, another trouble starting question... Thank you in advance for your help and wisdom!

My Rig: 1989 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 7.3L IDI C6

Just did the ball joints & tie rods. Had it up on jacks for about a week. Started her up and ran her a couple of times during that period, just to keep her happy. No problems. Finished the project, fired her up and drove to the gas station to fill 'er up. Go to start after filling and nothing. Nada. Swearing ensues...

All the lights go on and the voltage drops (glow plugs glowing) when the key is turned. Wait to Start light comes on for about 10-15 seconds. When the light goes out, turn the key and nothing happens. If I jump the gap on the fender mounted relay with a screw driver, it fires right up, better than turning the key actually... when that used to work.

What I have done so far:
1. Replaced the fender mounted relay. Thought it might be bad because jumping it with a screw driver worked. No improvement.
2. Checked every damn connection and ground I can find. I found that the driver side batter ground was very loose on the engine block. Cleaned it up and tightened it down. No improvement.

Other symptoms:
1. I hear rapid clicking like this (.. . .. . .. . .. . ..) for about 15 seconds upon turning the key all the way. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the engine but might be the starter throwing it's voice. By the time I hop out and run around to jump it with a screw driver, it stops.

Any insights guys? Any other tests I can perform to trouble shoot it? This thing is breaking me with $20 -$100 repairs! lol Thanks for your Help!

 

I had something similar happen to me. It was an acuator in the steering column located behind the lock cylinder. It's made of cheap aluminum. It connects to the op rod which goes down the steering column to the actual start switch.

 

Here's a post on replacing the actuator if it turns out to be the problem:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - help with ignition actuator

 

Take a jumper wire and energize the little contact in the middle of the fender relay with 12V+ from the battery. If that makes the starter turn over good, then your problem is not your batteries or starter, all the stuff with the big cables. The problem is between the ignition switch and the relay. Bad actuator, like fhafer said, which would make it not engage the ignition switch all the way, or somesuch.

 

I had the same issue once same as you. It was the switch on the column. I jumped the fender relay truck fired right up... just incase I ran a toggle switch in the cab. One side of the switch is momentary for the starter just incase it ever happens again and the other side of the switch runs my e fan if I need extra cooling for what ever reason the black and white stranded wire goes from fender relay to my momentary side of the switch.

 

the rapid clicking is coming from a solenoid and it is behind the engine.it's the glow plugs control unit making that solenoid click off/on for a bit.
normally,you don't hear this because you start your engine.this power draw off/on does make the volt meter jump back and forth which you probably have noticed.anywho,that's the glow plug afterglow to help the engine run smooth when first started to reduce white smoke and provide a smoother/cleaner running engine.
it's unrelated to your issue and is working correctly.

well,good luck with the nickle and dime repairs ending anytime soon.these are the joys we have rather than payments lol.

 

Very well put FORD!

 

Thanks for all the input guys!

I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and knowledge, links and pics. That toggle switch is pretty trick! I'm just going to try and get it to start from inside the cab for now but might go for the mad-max mod if I'm feeling confident/ambitious. It seems like every project I undertake on this beast gets a little more involved or introduces another system to learn about. I think I'm becoming emotionally attached to the old girl...

Here's a pretty good vid on youtube about the fix...

I'll let you know how it goes... might be a few days... thanks again!

 

you might also want to check the manual lever position sensor (mlps). if it is not showing that the trans is in park, you can turn the key all day and get nothing. I figured that out after replacing my steering column and couldn't get anything to happen. Only took two days to track that down and that was the last thing I looked at, of course

 

yeah that's a good point there too,chef.though i see a clutch pedal there,same idea.the neutral safety switch is a good place to start with these symptoms.

 

Here's my video I made couple years ago when I put it in

 

My truck has all the bells and whistles for the year but my steering wheel does not tilt... as far as I can tell...

I popped the plastic cover off the steering column, so I could see the actuator working without taking the whole thing apart. The actuator appears to be tight and moves through the full range of the key. There is no moving it with pliers, to start the truck, like the guy in the video. Also, it has light surface rust, so I don't think it's made of aluminum.

Over the last few days my batteries have been slowly draining to the point that the battery light has come on, so I think my alternator has crapped out on me or I've got a short somewhere. But that's a separate issue / system, right? Despite the low battery, when jumping the relay with a screw driver, it fires right up without hesitation. So I'm thinking it's still a communication issue somewhere between the key and the relay.

I'll check my Neutral Safety Switch tomorrow... The gear indicator has always been "off", when it's in Park it has to be so far left you can hardly see the orange and when it's in N,R,D, etc it's not lined up correctly. Maybe that has something to do with it...

The mystery continues... thanks for the additional info guys! I'll keep you posted and please let me know if you have any other ideas or trouble shooting tips.

 

Try a new fender relay....

 

He did that already I thought.

 

Yeah, I did put in a new relay but maybe I got a bad one...