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I am still having speedometer issues. I have tried another cluster, cable end gear, and lubing the cable. I still have no speedo other than it will bounce occasionally when leaving from a stop.
I have a 1970 F100 4x2 with 300 i6, T18 4 speed w/granny 1st.
What I would like to know is what does it take to change the drive gear on the trans shaft? What other seals/parts will be needed when changing the gear such as new output shaft seal and tail shaft housing gasket if there is one. Where is the best place to get the gear and seals? Also how would I determine for sure that I have a T18. If it matters reverse is to the right and up, next to 3rd.
Like this:
1 3 R
2 4
Any help or links to more info would be greatly appreciated
Yes, that pattern fits a T-18 up to 76, IIRC, just like my 72 F-100. The warranty sticker under the door striker will have an F code if readable. The Reverse down is from 77+ as attested to by my Dad's 77 F-150 and my son's 79 F-250 4wd which is strange as I thought Ford put NP 435's behind 4wd's til 80. Also, the case is marked BW (Borg-Warner)T-18, and the top plate is marked either T-98 (the T-18's older brother, which BW used up old stock) or T-18, IIRC. I could crawl under my son's 79 to doublecheck these details, but it is -20 and 8" of snow and dark so I gotta pass.
GREG. Get me your rear end ratio and I can look up the drive gear for you. I have never changed one but it looks in the Ford micro-fische pic if you remove the tail housing it will be right in front of you.
The part number was originally C8AZ17285A before it was changed to C8AZ17285B. 7 tooth gear. T18 OR np 435. Dennis Carpenter Ford shows two of the 2nd number in stock. 1-704-786-8139.
No Ford parts available?
Also how are you seeing them at DC. I went to their site with no success.
Nope Greg, not available from Ford anymore. NumberDummy told me what the difference is between DC FORD and DC catalog once but I don't remember now. Try that phone number I posted tommorrow buddy.
So you have checked that the gear is stripped and not working in the tail housing?
I'd would removed the speedometer cable at the back of the dash then drive to see if the cable is turning all the time before pulling the tail housing.
These old classic Ford speedometers would get to bouncing. This was the main reason I went to a electronic one. ..orich
I have lubed the cable, replaced the gear on the tranny side of cable, and tried a different speedometer in the cluster.
Aw but have you done what, I listed above?
You maybe could use a mirror and a flash light cocked so you can look into the housing hole to make sure it's stripped.
I have used a slow turning hand drill that, I attach it to the tranny end of the cable that goes to the dash head unit for testing. It do take much rpm to over clock the speedometer this is why you'll need a slow turning hand drill for a test:....
You may need a helper watching dash head unit for this test!!
Also some tranny's are geared too turn the cable in reverse to work.
Just a heads up...orich
I have turned it by hand but that generally just shows that it will move as you can only get a couple rotations before you run out of finger twist. I will see what I can find to turn it steady. I was thinking about trying to look into the hole to see the gear before I removed the housing. I will need to go get another inspection mirror or use one of the wife's compacts. Was helping a buddy that closed his hood on my last one.
And/or you can remove the cable out of trans and reach in the hole with your finger. You'll feel the drive gear. If the teeth are flat accross the gear is still good. If it's worn into like a valley feeling there's your problem.
Sorry for not getting back to this in so long. Today I pulled the cable from the tail shaft and felt around inside. The drive gear is definitely worn out. it is no longer flat across the teeth. It is worn into a 'U' shape almost like the finger indents on a pistol grip.
Here is a Pic. I know it's blurry but the camera phone couldn't decide on what to focus.
[IMG][/IMG]
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