help with cab mounts
#16
The Ford ladder frame was designed to twist quite a lot as stated, one of the reasons so many are still running around where stiffer frames have cracked and failed. As others have said solid mounting the cab to the flexible frame will make you very sad especially when the doors pop open over every bump and dip in the road, and your SO complains about her eye teeth getting shaken out. This system WAS one of Ford's better ideas.Heed what everyone is telling you, the rebuild kits aren't bank breakers, but the dental bills will be!
#17
#18
With all due respect, why would you waste so much thought, effort, and probably a nice handful of money on trying to get around a system that is already in place on your truck, has the proper dimensions and proportions, won't make a bit of difference in the cosmetic outward appearance of your truck, and only costs $50 ($25 per side) to replace with brand new parts that will outlast all of us? As the old cliché goes, it's your truck, do what you want with it. But enquiring minds want to know.......
#19
Why? I dont like stock The same reason I am running a fuel injected engine with double overdrive, improvements have been made since 1952, and I dont see any of my other C channel frame pickup trucks with a lever arm holding the back of the cab anymore. It is just a question rather than just assume it is the best way.
My 55 packard had an electric torsion bar controlled suspension that was state of the art in 1955, I dont see anyone using that system anymore. Just because it was the best way then doesnt mean it is now.
I am going to be running a much softer suspension than stock and if this frame is so weak that it actually flexes while going down the road then there is a problem. Looks plenty strong to me, I will measure but look just a beefy as an S10 and they have rubber mounted cabs.
Money has nothing to do with it, I could weld up some side mounts and have the rear of the cab rubber mounted in a few hours for free, not a big deal at all. All it was was a question, I will be rebuilding the stock mounts, but there certainly wouldn't be more than an afternoons work in converting to a modern system including boxing the frame rails for stiffness. Plasma cutter makes slicing steel quick and easy
Now when I get my mount arms off I will see how torn up they are, I expect them to be junk.
My 55 packard had an electric torsion bar controlled suspension that was state of the art in 1955, I dont see anyone using that system anymore. Just because it was the best way then doesnt mean it is now.
I am going to be running a much softer suspension than stock and if this frame is so weak that it actually flexes while going down the road then there is a problem. Looks plenty strong to me, I will measure but look just a beefy as an S10 and they have rubber mounted cabs.
Money has nothing to do with it, I could weld up some side mounts and have the rear of the cab rubber mounted in a few hours for free, not a big deal at all. All it was was a question, I will be rebuilding the stock mounts, but there certainly wouldn't be more than an afternoons work in converting to a modern system including boxing the frame rails for stiffness. Plasma cutter makes slicing steel quick and easy
Now when I get my mount arms off I will see how torn up they are, I expect them to be junk.
#20
Why? I dont like stock The same reason I am running a fuel injected engine with double overdrive, improvements have been made since 1952, and I dont see any of my other C channel frame pickup trucks with a lever arm holding the back of the cab anymore. It is just a question rather than just assume it is the best way.
My 55 packard had an electric torsion bar controlled suspension that was state of the art in 1955, I dont see anyone using that system anymore. Just because it was the best way then doesnt mean it is now.
I am going to be running a much softer suspension than stock and if this frame is so weak that it actually flexes while going down the road then there is a problem. Looks plenty strong to me, I will measure but look just a beefy as an S10 and they have rubber mounted cabs.
Money has nothing to do with it, I could weld up some side mounts and have the rear of the cab rubber mounted in a few hours for free, not a big deal at all. All it was was a question, I will be rebuilding the stock mounts, but there certainly wouldn't be more than an afternoons work in converting to a modern system including boxing the frame rails for stiffness. Plasma cutter makes slicing steel quick and easy
Now when I get my mount arms off I will see how torn up they are, I expect them to be junk.
My 55 packard had an electric torsion bar controlled suspension that was state of the art in 1955, I dont see anyone using that system anymore. Just because it was the best way then doesnt mean it is now.
I am going to be running a much softer suspension than stock and if this frame is so weak that it actually flexes while going down the road then there is a problem. Looks plenty strong to me, I will measure but look just a beefy as an S10 and they have rubber mounted cabs.
Money has nothing to do with it, I could weld up some side mounts and have the rear of the cab rubber mounted in a few hours for free, not a big deal at all. All it was was a question, I will be rebuilding the stock mounts, but there certainly wouldn't be more than an afternoons work in converting to a modern system including boxing the frame rails for stiffness. Plasma cutter makes slicing steel quick and easy
Now when I get my mount arms off I will see how torn up they are, I expect them to be junk.
#21
Just because we do things differently now doesnt mean the previous way was inferior. Take the new gas cans for example. They always seem to **** gas all over me when i try to use them.
I keep reading the post looking for the problem you're trying to solve. It isnt like the cab swings back and forth like a toddlers walker. If anything Id say the arms are superior than today's mounts.
I keep reading the post looking for the problem you're trying to solve. It isnt like the cab swings back and forth like a toddlers walker. If anything Id say the arms are superior than today's mounts.
#22
Guess you didnt read slow enough. The "problem" is my cab is sitting on the frame in the back. I questioned what the rubber blocks were for and why the arms were there rather than solid rubber mounts, and I wanted to know if one of those parts was the reason my cab was sitting on the frame. That question was answered by Doc's pictures (thanks!) and I already received my mount kit and will be rebuilding the arms back to factory. I questioned why the need for the arms since they are not used on modern pickup trucks. Now that I know the Ford frame is flexible as a wet noodle I will stick with the stock design.
#25
Hey Dave,
Someone in here mentioned "doors popping open" when you go over bumps. That does in fact happen & is very common in my experience with the stock latch set up for these old trucks. So.... If you want to improve on something stock I'd recommend taking a serious look at that door latch design. Stock in this case isn't too great! Some go with more modern bear claw design etc. Cast your creative thoughts on the latch area - it will bug you to death when those doors pop open on your maiden voyage.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Someone in here mentioned "doors popping open" when you go over bumps. That does in fact happen & is very common in my experience with the stock latch set up for these old trucks. So.... If you want to improve on something stock I'd recommend taking a serious look at that door latch design. Stock in this case isn't too great! Some go with more modern bear claw design etc. Cast your creative thoughts on the latch area - it will bug you to death when those doors pop open on your maiden voyage.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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