Storage question
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
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Storage question
It's that time of year again, cold and rainy. Camping season is over and the RV pretty much sits (out of the weather under a hard cover) until spring.
At the end of the season I change the oil, check all the fluids, winterize the fresh water system, and generally try to take it out for a 30 mile run, weather permitting, about once per month.
Is running it up once per month a good practice? Any other tips or tricks for the long winter layover?
Thanks.
At the end of the season I change the oil, check all the fluids, winterize the fresh water system, and generally try to take it out for a 30 mile run, weather permitting, about once per month.
Is running it up once per month a good practice? Any other tips or tricks for the long winter layover?
Thanks.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You just warm it up to get the juices flowing?
Where are you located, i.e. how long and how cold a winter?
If it were me I would probably just fog it and bring the battery inside to put it on a tender, but I don't know your situation.
Where are you located, i.e. how long and how cold a winter?
If it were me I would probably just fog it and bring the battery inside to put it on a tender, but I don't know your situation.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
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I'm in the Pacific NW and winters are probably mild by most standards. Mostly it rains a lot. Typical highs 40's to 50's and overnight lows in the 30's with occasional cold snaps into the mid-teens. Camping season ends in October and begins again in April.
I try to take it out and drive it for about 30 miles monthly to run some gas through it, get the juices (various fluids) flowing, and keep the seals and gaskets from drying out, not to mention "rotating" the tires in an effort to avoid flat spots...
I try to take it out and drive it for about 30 miles monthly to run some gas through it, get the juices (various fluids) flowing, and keep the seals and gaskets from drying out, not to mention "rotating" the tires in an effort to avoid flat spots...
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
Adding some fuel stabilizer to non-ethanol blended fuel is a good idea. Ethanol blends do not fare well to sitting, even for 2-3 months.
Going for a drive every few weeks is good for the trans (C6 does not like to sit unused) and rear axle (ring and pinion can rust in humid climates, like you describe), as well as the engine and brakes. Tires can not only flat spot, but start to decay from continuous contact with the moist ground. Not a good thing to discover on the highway......
Going for a drive every few weeks is good for the trans (C6 does not like to sit unused) and rear axle (ring and pinion can rust in humid climates, like you describe), as well as the engine and brakes. Tires can not only flat spot, but start to decay from continuous contact with the moist ground. Not a good thing to discover on the highway......
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,989
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From: Virginia
I agree on the non-ethanol fuel. Southern States sells it here. Look to see if someone sells it in your area. It's a little bit higher in price, but won't go bad as quickly as the ethanol blend fuel, and you will get a couple more mpg with it so the price is a wash.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
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Likes: 65
Thank you for the replies and suggestions.
X100 on the pure gas. Before ethanol (BE) I'd get around 10 mpg. Now I'm happy to get 9. I get clear gas for the boat, I'll have to see if they'll pump it into the truck.
I'm familiar with "Stabil". Are there any other fuel stabilizers to recommend?
Thanks again.
X100 on the pure gas. Before ethanol (BE) I'd get around 10 mpg. Now I'm happy to get 9. I get clear gas for the boat, I'll have to see if they'll pump it into the truck.
I'm familiar with "Stabil". Are there any other fuel stabilizers to recommend?
Thanks again.
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Fordrules
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 12, 2007 07:05 AM
