5r110 TRANS UPGRADE DIY MOD
#1
5r110 TRANS UPGRADE DIY MOD
I always have had a few issues with flare in my 3-5 shift running big tunes and towing, so I have been looking around to see what can be done to the trans to increase the performance a little. This seems to be a more prevalent issue in the early job 1 builds, mine is a 07-07 build. What I came up with was up grading the EPC solenoid to a stage 2 for more pressure and modifying the direct drive solenoid for more pressure and flow. This was relatively easy to due and I am very happy with the out come. The shifts are now firm and crisp and i have successfully almost eliminated any 3-5 flare i previously had. Before it seemed that the trans would get a little lazy with bigger tunes and time, which makes since there is adaptive programming in the TCM. This mod doesn’t change the programming, actually changes the hydraulic pressure in the trans so it is more consistent. I originally thought that this might result in very harsh shifts with a bigger tune and aggressive trans tuning but that is not the case. If your trans is not already damaged i would recommend this upgrade for the guys running bigger tunes or people towing heavy loads. Don’t do this is your the person that doesn’t like to feel the shifts.
The stage 2 EPC solenoid came from 03-up 5R110 HD EPC Solenoid Heavy Duty Application
The modified direct solenoid came from PTP | DirectSOL | Modified Direct Clutch Solenoid Ford Powerstroke 6.0L / 6.4L
Kit to replace dummy sensor plug Transmission Pressure Switch End Plug Kit, 5R110W (Sonnax) 03 -UP S16411
Knowing what I know now I probably would try the MTS modified direct solenoid simply because its cheaper and could be matched better. PTP has some good pics which ill share below on the modified direct solenoid install. Sorry i didn't catch pics on the EPC install. Everyone told me that the solenoid valve body had to be removed to change the EPC solenoid because the main wire harness for the trans is in the way of removing it. So I did, but after looking at it a-part it would appear all you have to due is remove the harness plug not sure if thats it, but i went with what i was told and I actually removed the solenoid valve assembly. Which I think may have been better because I could clean it better after the installs. As you are lowering it out make sure to hold the main valve spool becasue it is loose and could fall out which might ruin your day. Also make sure you get the torque sequence and spec on the solenoid body when you install it. I also change the plastic dummy plug sensor between the overdrive solenoid and the TCC solenoid. The plastic dummy plugs are known to leak and i see why, it was just a plastic piece that dosen't fit well, the dummy plug replacement is a steel fitting with a o-ring to seal it better. On a early 08 (7-07 build)You will need the 2 solenoids and a solenoid valve body holder plate gasket ( valve body to holder gasket/screen assembly if you want to change while you are in there) 1 dummy plug kit, a new o-ring for the harness connector,new trans filter and about 8 quarts of fluid unless you have a deep pan then 16 quarts to do this. This is my first attempt at this and i have never messed with a 5r110 before so make sure if you do this research it well. I found all the information need online.
The following photos are for replacement of the Direct Drive solenoid , like i said i didn't catch photos of the EPC removal and installation. Refer to the diagram below for the solenoid locations.
The stage 2 EPC solenoid came from 03-up 5R110 HD EPC Solenoid Heavy Duty Application
The modified direct solenoid came from PTP | DirectSOL | Modified Direct Clutch Solenoid Ford Powerstroke 6.0L / 6.4L
Kit to replace dummy sensor plug Transmission Pressure Switch End Plug Kit, 5R110W (Sonnax) 03 -UP S16411
Knowing what I know now I probably would try the MTS modified direct solenoid simply because its cheaper and could be matched better. PTP has some good pics which ill share below on the modified direct solenoid install. Sorry i didn't catch pics on the EPC install. Everyone told me that the solenoid valve body had to be removed to change the EPC solenoid because the main wire harness for the trans is in the way of removing it. So I did, but after looking at it a-part it would appear all you have to due is remove the harness plug not sure if thats it, but i went with what i was told and I actually removed the solenoid valve assembly. Which I think may have been better because I could clean it better after the installs. As you are lowering it out make sure to hold the main valve spool becasue it is loose and could fall out which might ruin your day. Also make sure you get the torque sequence and spec on the solenoid body when you install it. I also change the plastic dummy plug sensor between the overdrive solenoid and the TCC solenoid. The plastic dummy plugs are known to leak and i see why, it was just a plastic piece that dosen't fit well, the dummy plug replacement is a steel fitting with a o-ring to seal it better. On a early 08 (7-07 build)You will need the 2 solenoids and a solenoid valve body holder plate gasket ( valve body to holder gasket/screen assembly if you want to change while you are in there) 1 dummy plug kit, a new o-ring for the harness connector,new trans filter and about 8 quarts of fluid unless you have a deep pan then 16 quarts to do this. This is my first attempt at this and i have never messed with a 5r110 before so make sure if you do this research it well. I found all the information need online.
The following photos are for replacement of the Direct Drive solenoid , like i said i didn't catch photos of the EPC removal and installation. Refer to the diagram below for the solenoid locations.
#7
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#8
#11
The EPC controls pressure to all the solenoids, changing just the direct solenoid to the modified direct clutch only increase flow and makes the shift quicker, but there will not be additional holding pressure. Changing the EPC to a modified EPC you can basically have it preset to any pressure you want, but if your running a tune that makes adjustments to the trans aswell the two usually don't work to well together, shifts can become extremely hard to the point your chirping tires at shifts.
#12
Hi, I just recently had some issues and stumbled across this post. I have an SCT tuner on my 08', so are you saying I should not change both because of the tuner? Or do I need to figure out if the tune is adjusting the trans before I attempt to replace both?
#13
Good morning,
Hate to dig up an old thread but...
my 08 is bulletproofed, spartan tuned, intake, and 5” exhaust. I had the flare and it struggles to shift to high gear. Almost like it go’s in neutral around 40 until converter locks. Is this what yours was doing? I bought the modified solenoid and changing that today. Truck did this for while and then cleared up. Just started doing it again Friday and real sloppy. Daily driver and never hard on it. 112,000 miles never been hooked to a trailer. Anyone with same problems I would appreciate the input. Transmission heat has never been above 170 and I drive 72 miles one way 5 Days a week to office. Lower gears shift crisp and no slip it’s just the last shift is ugly.
Hate to dig up an old thread but...
my 08 is bulletproofed, spartan tuned, intake, and 5” exhaust. I had the flare and it struggles to shift to high gear. Almost like it go’s in neutral around 40 until converter locks. Is this what yours was doing? I bought the modified solenoid and changing that today. Truck did this for while and then cleared up. Just started doing it again Friday and real sloppy. Daily driver and never hard on it. 112,000 miles never been hooked to a trailer. Anyone with same problems I would appreciate the input. Transmission heat has never been above 170 and I drive 72 miles one way 5 Days a week to office. Lower gears shift crisp and no slip it’s just the last shift is ugly.
#14
Good morning,
Hate to dig up an old thread but...
my 08 is bulletproofed, spartan tuned, intake, and 5” exhaust. I had the flare and it struggles to shift to high gear. Almost like it go’s in neutral around 40 until converter locks. Is this what yours was doing? I bought the modified solenoid and changing that today. Truck did this for while and then cleared up. Just started doing it again Friday and real sloppy. Daily driver and never hard on it. 112,000 miles never been hooked to a trailer. Anyone with same problems I would appreciate the input. Transmission heat has never been above 170 and I drive 72 miles one way 5 Days a week to office. Lower gears shift crisp and no slip it’s just the last shift is ugly.
Hate to dig up an old thread but...
my 08 is bulletproofed, spartan tuned, intake, and 5” exhaust. I had the flare and it struggles to shift to high gear. Almost like it go’s in neutral around 40 until converter locks. Is this what yours was doing? I bought the modified solenoid and changing that today. Truck did this for while and then cleared up. Just started doing it again Friday and real sloppy. Daily driver and never hard on it. 112,000 miles never been hooked to a trailer. Anyone with same problems I would appreciate the input. Transmission heat has never been above 170 and I drive 72 miles one way 5 Days a week to office. Lower gears shift crisp and no slip it’s just the last shift is ugly.
#15
I'm probably not the person you were hoping would reply, but if you'd like my honest opinion, I'd stop messing with it and take it to a dependable transmission shop. I fought mine for a while trying to fix it and all it did was waste time and money. These transmissions are really tough and can take a beating. My clutch packs we're pretty beat when I had it rebuilt, and what ended up completely killing other vehicles, just caused some slipping in this trans. So, I'd just go have it rebuilt, do some minor upgrades while they are in there (based on budget), and you'll never regret it. Swapping these solenoids is a bandaid at best and really fixes nothing. Hope that helps.
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