hi all
my 06 150 keeps stalling out on me. it starts and runs at high idle and then drops after running for like 5 minutes. when i shift gears it dies on me. when i come to a light or stop sign it dies on me. it dies before the van even stops. the rpm's run under 500 when stopped. i have to use the brake and give it gas to keep it going. when it stalls the rpm's go over 1,000 and then takes like 10 sec. before the idle comes back down
what could be the problem or multiple problems. if it matters it is a 4.6. it is really becoming a pain to drive anywhere
thanks
mike

 

Are you showing any codes or the CEL light on?

Not sure if your year has an IAC or Idle Air Control valve but if so this sounds a like its acting up or needs replaced.

Some advocate removing it to clean then reinstall---depending on your mileage its probably wise to simply replace it.

Also double check for any vacuum leaks, most notably the 90* fitting from the PCV to the backside of the throttle body---notorious for leaking. Dorman makes a replacement part# 46017 $15 or less almost anywhere parts are sold.

PCV could also be bad---check it too.

 

no the CEL light has not come back on for months. i disconnected the battery once and it has never come back on. i am getting a code for the bank one o2 sensor thats it. it is weird because before i disconnected the battery i also got a codes of cylinders 4 and 8 misfire. the code is now gone but i did not do anything

 

Does any of this seem to happen more when its cold outside or the truck sits outside over night?

 

I think a faulty O2 sensor would be a likely candidate for the problem described, would anyone else agree?

 

I'd agree a faulty O2 sensor could be the culprit----but wouldn't that show up on a diagnostic scan OR trigger the MIL?

 

As I understand, Mike (Thunderbird 1986) disconnected the battery which cleared all the codes and the MIL or as he referred to it, the CEL (Check Engine Light) went out and hasn't come back on, but the re-scan did give a trouble code for the Bank 1 O2 Sensor. Still, I also would expect the MIL to come on as well, but I have had to change O2 sensors' in other vehicles in the past that ran like crap and never generated a MIL activation. I just think that due to the description of how the vehicle is running, plus having a O2 sensor trouble code come up after clearing all codes, it is where I would start as O2 sensors are pretty inexpensive and I'd want to eliminate that as a possibility before that catalytic converter gets ruined since we know how much more costly those are! Just the way that I would go, but I am not a Certified Tech. or anything, I've just worked on quite a few vehicles over the years.

 

i replaced the 02 sensor. got a bosh from auto zone. the scanner says it is bad again. when i installed the new sensor i ran codes again and no codes. it ran the same too. the only time it does not stall is in the morning or if it has not been driven for hours and it runs at higher rmps, but that is only for a very,very short time. maybe 3 minutes
mike

 

I think I would start cleaning some other sensors like the M.A.F., check all vacuum lines for cracks and of course, if you haven't done it yet or for a while, replace the air filter. Take the air filter right out and start it and see if that makes any difference, just for the sake of saying you did it. Running it w/o a filter is basically the same as having a new filter. I just wouldn't drive it very long at all w/o a filter in place. Just long enough to see if that makes any difference. Sometimes it is just a process of elimination. I just hope we figure it out soon and it doesn't turn out to be a plugged catalytic converter! Like I said, I start w/the less expensive stuff 1st and work my way through the problem! Some problems you can diagnose right away, some you can't. I just had to replace my fuel pump (relay) module on my 2006 F150 because it would stall if I tried to give it too much gas! I could only go low speed eventually working up to higher speed by feathering the gas pedal. Step on it too much and stall! Module was rotted right out to the point of breaking in half. Apparently it is a VERY common problem on many Ford vehicles of different makes and models! As I understand, it could potentially affect up to as many as 3.8 Million vehicles!!! It doesn't sound like this is the problem w/yours, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to take a visual look to see what its physical condition is. On my '06 F150 it is located on a crossmember above the spare tire that is suspended under the bed of the truck. I'll stick w/you and try to help ya out as much as I can. Hopefully we'll figure it out quick. Good Luck, Tom in Vermont.

 

All too often I've seen/read Bosch O2 sensors can have compatibility issues---almost always the fix is installing Ford OEM instead.

That might be the reason your MIL is being triggered. Its not defective so much as it's unreadable by the ECM.

 

i looked on ebay for the O2 sensor. the one i took off that is the original ford one has this number. 5L8A-9F472-B2A. none of the ones on ebay or anywhere else that i can find have this number. i have found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OXYGEN-SENSOR-MOTORCRAFT-DY1045-FORD-5L8Z-9F472-AA-/200243268833?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9f6dcce1&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OXYGEN-SENSOR-MOTORCRAFT-DY1045-FORD-5L8Z-9F472-AA-/200243268833?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9f6dcce1&vxp=mtr

these two are the same thing. what is the correct part number and where is the best place to buy it.
thanks
mike
ohio

 

You're seeing two different part numbers for the same part----no difference in them at all.

Ford has its OEM number and even though MotorCraft is a Ford company it has its own numbers. They cross reference to each other which shows complete compatibility, the perfect replacement for the OEM part.

This is a slightly better deal---free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-DY1045-Oxygen-Sensor-/250863808499?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a68a5eff3&vxp=mtr

 

i do not have this fitting anywhere on the back of the throttle body.

JWA
Also double check for any vacuum leaks, most notably the 90* fitting from the PCV to the backside of the throttle body---notorious for leaking. Dorman makes a replacement part# 46017 $15 or less almost anywhere parts are sold.