this where i mounted mine its a e8153 about the same as the e3158 used on gm 6.2. i ran it to a relay I added to the fuse box

 

^far out lol.i literally just went out and snapped some pics of my setup too.
dang it though,i still can't find that thread here of the dura lift/transicold e-pump full write up though.ah well.still need a little wire loom there to clean it up some more and pay no attention that extra red wire and solenoid.that's by the po for the dump bed.

 

I'll have to dig up some of the electric pump threads. I'm very interested in that if she's still sucking air.

Today I jb welded the rat chew hole in the fuel element heater, hope that works. I also replaced the engine heater / block heater. For anyone searching this in the future, here's how you do it....

The radiator drain petcock is on the lower left side of the radiator if you're under the truck. Spray it with penetrating oil before attempting to open. You will need a piece of wire to get the dirt dobber nest out of the petcock. Open the radiator cap so it will drain. A piece of hose to extend the petcock helps it drain into the bucket and not into the frame.

After draining the radiator, you remove the old block heater. More coolant will come out so be ready. I got under the wheel well and didn't remove the starter but I'm skinny and flexible.

After putting the new heater in refill the radiator. Then start the truck and rev it up a bit to warm. When coolant starts cycling it will warm up quick so be ready to shut down. Then you can add the rest of the coolant.

Note: Don't drive a mile down the road to warm it up, stay parked. I drove, truck overheated on the way back coasting in second gear. Had to walk home and walk back with coolant. Can't fix stupid.

 

Splice a flushing t in to the heater core line and have the cap to it off while filling the radiator. Can about fill the whole system up within a half gallon this way. It lets all the air out of the lines that's keeping you from filling it all the way. Probably take less time to splice the t in than to walk back home for coolant. ha ha. Plus, now you can give your system a good flushing every couple of years.

 

Oh, btw f250, I know about those starters but I wanted to give this one a try and see how it worked. With the way it cranks, I'd be half tempted to buy another one in a year if I had too. ha ha.. It's crazy. I should try and find the spec sheet that came with it that showed the cranking torque in relation to the power draw.

 

Thought I'd post a follow-up.

Air was the problem, as well as glow plugs. When I replaced the glow plugs they started glowing for close to 18 seconds on really cold mornings, the most they had done before was about 10 sec. I imagine a couple were bad.

But the real difference was in getting the air leaks fixed. I swapped out the fuel filter for a closed bottom filter and got rid of the lower fuel filter housing, running it with no water in fuel sensor now so I have to drain periodically (which should be done anyway). Then I did the return line and o-ring kit. After that the glow plugs, and she still wouldn't fire on the first cranking. I could crank for 8 seconds or 20 seconds and nothing, then wait 2 mins and it would fire within 3 seconds on the second crank.

After I JB welded the rat hole in the top of the fuel element heater plug it fires right up....AMAZING difference. I tried it two days at fairly warm temps, then yesterday in the high 20's to low 30's and it turned over within the first 3-4 seconds.

My next step is to replace the battery cable, then I need to get some brighter headlight bulbs, or replace the headlights. I did a resurface kit on them, but it didn't help much. After that is taking care of some hood rust and getting some new shoes on her. This old truck is coming back to life!