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I keep going back and forth about whether to rebuild the engine I have and not change anything except the rear end or change the engine, tranny, and rear end to a more modern drivetrain. I am at the stage in the rebuild where I need to make a decision since I have the frame all cleaned up and primered. I need to decide whether or not to keep the crossmembers I have or buy the new ones for the modern stuff.
First off can someone help me identify the engine I have... I believe it is a 223 but dont know year. The engine was set up on 6 volt still when I pulled it so I am guessing its older??
I am also wondering what to look for to determine whether I should rebuild the engine completely or just a new gasket job and freshen up some of the components. The previous owner said it was running when parked but the water pump had went out and they never got around to fixing it. I knew my plans on restoring the truck so never attempted to get it running before I took it apart. The engine turns freely, exterior of the block looks fine. It is missing the water pump and also has 6volt ignition stuff on it so how hard is that to convert to 12V? It also appears to have been rebuilt at some point since there is faded blue paint in some parts of the block, unless this was factory??
It depends right, on your vision for the truck and on your budget. Those had decent HP and torque for what they were or so I'm told. I was constrained by my dream for a a warmed up flathead in my 53, but that doesn't apply to you. You have a blank canvas there. I have a friend with a sweet 57 t-bird y-block in his 55.Enjoy the process!
This is the 1960 on up to 1964 with the perimeter bolt pattern valve cover . The early valve cover had the two studs that came through the top and used the acorn nuts.
This is my 1962 223 engine ..............Dude
That sure looks like a 223. I like stock vehicles. The 223 will not be a power house by modern standards, but will get the job done. How do you intend to drive the truck? Highway speeds, around town, combination, heavy hauling, etc? Different transmission and rear axle ratio combinations work well for any, but not necessary all, of the above.
Pull the valve cover and inspect the rockers for wear. Post pictures. If the top end looks good, pull the head an inspect the bore. Post more pictures. If the bores look decent, pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom end. Post yet more pictures.
Once we have your feedback and the condition of the engine we can give you much more helpful advice.
Converting the engine to 12V is really easy. Install a 12V generator, starter, coil, and if needed, condenser and sending units (oil pressure). To convert your truck to 12V you also need to install a 6V power supply to your fuel gauge. I don't know how the idiot lights work with 12V conversions, maybe you only need 12V bulbs. All that said, do you really need 12V? The only reason I have ever converted a vehicle to 12V was to install A/C.
Last edited by 38 coupe; Nov 26, 2013 at 06:43 PM.
Reason: 12V conversion information
38 coupe.. Thanks for the info. I will try and pull that stuff off soon and get some pics. I don't have any of the old 6 volt wiring since it was bad and I tore it out when I disassembled the truck.
My plans for the truck are mostly 55mph back roads and city roads. Very small chance of highway driving and won't be pulling heavy loads.
I got this 223, and a t98 trans that came with the truck, plan on using them if I can
1952-53: 215 ci
1954-59: 223 ci
1960-63 (or 64) 262 ci
When I had the 215 motor rebuilt, it cost me approximately $3k with parts and labor. Major things to look out for is a cracked crankshaft (most crack in the journal areas) and cracked exhaust manifolds (most crack in the heat riser area).
Your engine also has the coveted Holley 1904 carb with the glass bowl.