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Since this seems to be an extremely common issue as well as solution offered up by many on several threads, I'd like to just compile some real life experiences where the solution ended up being replacing the CPS.
I think I might have one now myself, but I'm away from the truck for a bit and can't confirm nor deny the CPS is indeed the issue.
So for those who have had it, please give a brief description of your actual symptoms leading to the TS process and maybe a little bit what you did that didn't fix it. Also are you currently using a gray or black one?
Since this seems to be an extremely common issue as well as solution offered up by many on several threads, I'd like to just compile some real life experiences where the solution ended up being replacing the CPS.
I think I might have one now myself, but I'm away from the truck for a bit and can't confirm nor deny the CPS is indeed the issue.
So for those who have had it, please give a brief description of your actual symptoms leading to the TS process and maybe a little bit what you did that didn't fix it. Also are you currently using a gray or black one?
Black ones are hard, if not impossible, to find now.
Grey or the Dark Grey/Blue are the common ones now, although they don't idle as well as the black one they tend to last longer. Don't try aftermarket, as many have quirks that cause the same issues as a failing CPS.
IMHO if you suspect the CPS....change it. It's under $30 for a Ford CPS and not hard to change.
my truck would cut out occasionally only in the rain when useing the wipers, soft SES light with a bunch of random codes...I don't remember the codes becasue it was 6+ years ago but I do remember none of them where CPS related. I tried delectric grease on all connection under the hood, scratched my head for a while then did a search on FTE ( should have done that first). Found several threads indicating the wiper motor could cause interference with a CPS that was failing so I went down to Ford and purchased a nice grey gen 2 CPS for a shade over $20 (they had recently come down from $170), installed it and have never had another issue. My original black CPS had 270K on it and my #2 CPS is still in the truck and has north of 150K on it.
When mine went, the engine shut down suddenly for about a second while driving a couple times. Then it completely died while driving the next day. It restarted after a few minutes, but died again shortly after and I had to change the sensor in the parking lot I managed to coast into.
When the CPS acted up on mine, the truck stumbled and the tach zeroed for about 3 seconds, then came back to life. Ran fine rest of the day. Next day it stumbled and died, but restarted promptly. Which was just enough of a hint for me. Replaced it later that day since I already had the recall letter from Ford for the cruise control wiring, pretty good timing there. Currently running the dark grey with purple O ring from IH (1876736C91) smoother and quieter than the recall Ford unit. Have a NIB black one yet to try.
1. Black OEM (Running now)
2. Grey OEM (In the glove box)
3. BW, color irrelevant. (In the garage)
They performed in 1-3-2 order of quality, which equaled how they stood up in a bench test of how strong the magnetic sensors were. My BW was a rare good one. Most are bad. It is said that moving the ground for the wiper motors fixes the issue, since the CPS and wipers share a ground, they share interference. I never moved my ground, but the BW worked fine, rain and all. Hard to say why. However, I wouldnt recommend one to someone, because of the common reliability issues. I keep it as a back up since it has worked thus far.
Typical CPS failure symptoms seem to be an intermediate cutting out, either causing a shudder or a stall. For most CPS failures, a restart is immediately possible.
Aftermarket sensors often receive interference from the wipers, as described above, causing a shudder or stall when the wipers are turned on.
Now that I'm back in town (albeit dinner at the inlaws today) I'm gonna put my new CPS in probably Saturday. It's gray one I purchased from the dealer parts department.
My recent symptoms were running along fine, then up on the highway running at a good clip and about 20 miles into the run it suddenly started to hiccup then die. I quick slipped it into neutral and got it to fire back up.
Then shortly afterwards it died and I had to sit alongside the road. Eventually it started and I ran 18 of the 20 miles back home when it died again. From there the last 2 miles was a start/stop routine that took me almost an hour to cover back to my driveway. Got the P0340 & 0344 codes off the AE and nothing else, so I guess this sounds like a CPS, though the one I had in it was a dealer replacement (gray) under a 1.5 years old.
Last one I had ... hard start sometimes . Once running , stutter at higher rpm's . Never died . Cut out and jerked . Replaced with a BWD , good for 20 miles . Finally went and got a Ford replacement . Still going 2 years later .
Tyler, I have a couple of the black ones if I can find them. I will send you one once located.
Thanks, that would be great. Please let me know what you'd take for one, I know they don't come cheap to some these days. I've always been so curious about the benefits!
Thanks, that would be great. Please let me know what you'd take for one, I know they don't come cheap to some these days. I've always been so curious about the benefits!
I KNOW mine runs smoother, and I lost the ghost #3 and/or #8 "Failed CCT" codes.
I had a dark grey in mine when I sold the truck. It did not seem to run right, but did not quit like the rest. I was going to use the light grey and shim it/grind it until I got around the .05 clearance I had heard about at the garage.
..."I was going to use the light grey and shim it/grind it until I got around the .05 clearance I had heard about at the garage.
So there's a physical difference (allegedly) between the black and grey ones? Are the grey ones used in any other engine applications to account for this difference?