The tires I have came from a stock 1965 f250 and appear to have a locking ring that is one piece and not split. We're there different types of locking rings? Are mine the dreaded "widow maker" wheels? After the research I've done, I'm a little confused.

 

Pics would help to see which ones you have. Now I am no expert but it is my understanding that there are 4 very distinct styles of "split rims", the single locking ring (2 pieces), the double locking ring (3 pieces), the firestone center split rims (never seen in person, don't plan to), and the bolt together split rims (like with bead-locks for off-roading).

The last one is probably not what you have, but it is the safest. The firestone type are the ones know as widow makers, they split in the center and are known for not locking in properly and coming apart. The 3 piece rims are tricky to get the inner locking ring to seat properly, I also have never handled these but am given to understand they can be problematic as well. The two pieces rims are most likely what you have, they do carry the risks of split rims but are essentially the safest form outside of the bolted rims. I wish I took pics of the set i have for my F-350, I bought 6 one piece rims from the J/Y to get the truck rolling and saved the old split ones to mount later with tires that I personally like the look of on the truck, almost period correct "farm truck style" if you will. Now if proper care is taken they can be very good rims, many large trucks, especially ones with "dayton" style hubs, still use them today, and the truck shops are usually the only places that will touch them or have the knowledge to do so. I'll see about some pics of my dually rims tonight, yours will be similar except with a srw backspacing, and I can explain how to mount/demount them yourself if you so choose. But although your rims are associated with widow makers because of their style, they are not actually the ones notorious for blowing up like the center split style. I think somebody on this board has a diagram depicting what I just explained, hopefully they chime in.

 

The one piece lock ring you have is not the dreaded "widow maker" split ring type you fear. I have a 65' F-100 and also have a set of six of these types that I pulled off of a 63' F-250 and from ebay. I work in the Port of Los Angeles/Long Beach, CA as a Longshoreman mechanic and the container "chassis" (slang name for trailers) use the deadly split rim style wheels. On the lock ring you have there should be a notch were you insert a tire pry bar to start working out the ring from the rim. the ring has two thinner sections in the middle where it will slip on and off of the rim with some serious prying. They are not difficult to work with but I strongly suggest not using a huge flat screw driver or common prybar to remove it. You should purchase the propper tire/rim tools from Ken-Tool or Snap-On Tools if you want to do this correctly and safely. There are a few videos on YOUTUBE that show how to mount/dismount tube type tires on spilt rims for vintage army jeeps which are similar to our set up. Just the most important step is to either use a tire cage or lock a chain around the tire/rim when you inflate it because if the lock ring isn't set right, the pressure from the inflating tire will "pop" it off when it's seating the bead. If you have questions on what tools you need from Ken-Tool or Snap-On, just let me know because I bet there are other guys out there with the same questions you have about these. I need to go through my tool box at work to get all the part numbers for the tools you will need to do this yourself. Only large truck tire shops or farm/tractor tire shops will work on these type of rims/wheels. All modern tire shop are too scared of them for no reason.

 

Here's a picture.


I'd really like to keep the wheels since they came with the original innie hubcaps.

 

Yup, those are the good style. As mentioned above, always use a cage or safety chain when inflating. In a pinch a pair of tire irons or small crowbars etc could be used once the bead is broken, but there is no replacement for the right tools.

 

I don't see the notch where you have to insert the rim prybar. Maybe it's behind the wheel weight clamps. I can't tell if it's my computer screen or my eyes are going bad, but is that the front or back side of the wheel? I see on the top side of the wheel where the dimple is for the 90degree valve stem goes from the inner tube but I can't see the valve stem itself. BTW, what size tires are you looking to use with this wheel set up? Because there are only a few tire companies still making the correct sizes for "light truck" bias tube type tires for our trucks. You may want to track down the correct replacement tires first before getting to involved in trying to save them. The one's I have are 7.00" x 15" bias tube type made by S.T.A. (Specailty Tires of America). They are made in the USA, but the flaps and the inner tubes are made in India by some unknown company. I purchased everthing I needed from Lucas Classic Tires here in Long Beach, CA www.lucasclassictires.com

 

I checked my tool box durring my afternoon break here at work. The tools I have for doing this type of job safely are listed as needed:

Snap-On TR100 Rim Tool (MSRP: $59.50)
Use on split rims and rim lock rings. One end is angled; the other is straight. 19 1/8" long with 9/16" and 5/8" wide ends.
This is the propper tool to pry out the ring where the notch is to free it from the wheel.

Ken-Tool T34 17" Heavy Duty Tire Hammer (Price: $65-$95 from various internet sellers)
This is the propper hammer to "beat" the ring back in with. Non-marring rubber end pervents damaged to ring and paint on rim. I wouldn't use any steel face hammers (sledge or ball peen) if you are trying to protect the fresh paint on the ring or rim. The largest deadblow hammer Snap-On makes is on 56oz. Not heavy enough to work the lock ring easy back on.

Ken-Tool T19, T20, T21F and Snap-On TR102 Tire Spoons. I suggest these one because the are the best quality for this kind of hand work. At my work we have a huge machine that both removes the lock ring and breaks the bead on the tire to demount it from the rim. The only problem is that it is made for 20" rims that we use on container chassis. I use it on one tire with sucess but the jaws scratched the rim bad on the inside face. So if you want show quality wheels, I would purchase quality tire hand tools to do the job and take your time. But the main thing you are looking for when it comes to tire spoons is that the are 24" long. You will need the leverage when working the tire on and off the rim.

I know all of these tool sound too expensive, but if you want quality results, buy the best you can afford.

 

Thanks for all the great info! Ideally l'd like 16" tires with thin white walls. I like the idea of changing these myself so that's the direction I'm gonna try for...

 

I'd be very careful working on split rims yourself...our tire guy who has been doing them for 30 years warned
me about them once (we have some on our International jet fuel truck)...better left to a pro IMO.

Jason

 

That is the front (outside) of the tire in the pic, and it looks like the weight is covering the ring slot. I see the indent and the stem is there, but it is almost camouflaged.

I don't see any problem with doing them yourself, just double check everything as you go along and use proper safety measures. I'm sure you know this or will see it later, but take the valve out of the stem before breaking the bead. It seems simple but is often forgotten. It only took me one tire to learn never to do that again. Thankfully the tire was dead flat and had enough "ventilation" that the bang when the bead let go was minimal. Remember, every pro was a beginner once.

16 inch tires shouldn't be too hard to find, like posted above the STA company carries a lot of these and I think coker tire does to. Your search should be easier than mine, I want Goodyear Extra-Grip tires in the 7.50-16 flavor. Sounds easy only they are NLA, the company that still stocks the EXACT tires is out of Belize, and the other similar tires just aren't close enough for me.