But on the brite side, it always easier the second time.
Dang heater core!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
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Likes: 5
From: nunya
Dang heater core!
I just replaced the heater core when I redid my interior a couple months ago...yesterday I was driving down the freeway,the heat went away and I started to smell anti freeze,then the windows fogged up! My carpets are not wet,but I am assuming the heater core sprung a leak?
This sucks, I have A/C and all that crap has to come out again!
This sucks, I have A/C and all that crap has to come out again!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I feel your pain. I hate repeating the same job. I'm in the middle of that with my fuel pump. First fuel pump went on, only to find the inlet was the wrong size. Put a second (different) one on and fired it up this weekend; the outlet on this one leaks. Hopefully the third time's a charm. If it's any consolation, you're not the only one. Just have to keep at it I guess.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
What you're experiencing is cheap Chinese crap.
Doing things twice definitely sucks. I did a timing belt and component change on a 1.7L Honda last week at work, only to start it up and discover coolant pouring out the timing cover. A 5 hour job ended up taking me almost two full days.
Doing things twice definitely sucks. I did a timing belt and component change on a 1.7L Honda last week at work, only to start it up and discover coolant pouring out the timing cover. A 5 hour job ended up taking me almost two full days.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
I think these are the real deal copper replacements from Laurel Mountain Mustang IIRC.
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com...-slash-c-brass
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com...-slash-c-brass
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 13
From: Port Orchard Wa
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Count your blessings. It could be an engine. I paid a mechanic to build a hp 300. Oil pressure dropped to 3 psi in less than 1k miles. I replaced that engine with another rebuilt and found the shop who reground cam made base circles too small so lifters dropped too far and machine gunned. New timing gears growled like a bear.
I learned to seldom use the title Mechanic. Now I build my own engines, and mic. everything. If there is a more expensive/better option with engine parts, I'm happy! to pay the extra. With machine shops I look the owner in the eye and ask who is going to be working on my block, how long he has been there.
I learned to seldom use the title Mechanic. Now I build my own engines, and mic. everything. If there is a more expensive/better option with engine parts, I'm happy! to pay the extra. With machine shops I look the owner in the eye and ask who is going to be working on my block, how long he has been there.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Maybe, just maybe you can pull the small plate on the eng compartment side that locks the a/c lines to the box and keep the a/c lines connected?
And maybe swing out the a/c core (yea it called something else) to get to the heater core?
I also understand probably not enough room with the box in the truck, just throwing it out there.
I would much rather change it on the tailgate then in the truck too, hang in there.
And maybe swing out the a/c core (yea it called something else) to get to the heater core?
I also understand probably not enough room with the box in the truck, just throwing it out there.
I would much rather change it on the tailgate then in the truck too, hang in there.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 42
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I think these are the real deal copper replacements from Laurel Mountain Mustang IIRC.
1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang
1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang
Yep. I got one from those guys and it matched up great. I'm glad I took the advice and spent a few more bucks....
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 5
From: nunya
I think these are the real deal copper replacements from Laurel Mountain Mustang IIRC.
1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang
1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 12
From: Northeast LA
Not trying to hijack the thread, but does anyone know if/where you can buy the silver insulation (or a suitable substitute material) that goes on the outside of the A/C box as pictured above. Mine is gone on my truck, and I thought replacing may help with the A/C cooling come summertime.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 5
From: nunya
Not trying to hijack the thread, but does anyone know if/where you can buy the silver insulation (or a suitable substitute material) that goes on the outside of the A/C box as pictured above. Mine is gone on my truck, and I thought replacing may help with the A/C cooling come summertime.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 63
From: Eastern, Idaho
I used some automotive insulation with the foil backing and the sticky chrome foil duct tape. I got a 4 ft by 6 ft roll from summit racing... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SFT-INSUL1
Had just enough to do the roof above the headliner, behind door panels and the heater AC box.
Check and make sure that your heater hoses are tightly clamped to the heater core. It is possible for the coolant to leak with a loose hose connection and have some run down the core and into the box.
Had just enough to do the roof above the headliner, behind door panels and the heater AC box.
Check and make sure that your heater hoses are tightly clamped to the heater core. It is possible for the coolant to leak with a loose hose connection and have some run down the core and into the box.