i just bought a 1977 ford f150 4x4 automatic 351 windsor for a 1000$. the motor has been replaced but looks like the carb(autolite 2150)might not have been. anyways, the motor was running like **** and squirting fuel out of the front of the carb(ACCELERATOR PUMP DIAPHRAGM).....so i bought a rebuild kit. replaced the part, stopping the fuel spraying problem. ran a little better and decided to do a tune up. spark plugs and wires were kinda shoddy looking. once replaced(with correct spark plug gap), it ran 10x better. i thought all was well, but soon after, the idle started to jump and would die at idle/die when quick revved. i tried checking for leaks but haven't seen any. noticed a lot of the vacuum lines were plugged and going nowhere. i've tried to find the correct diagram(most seem to have a smog pump? but mine does not have one of these), but i have a feeling there is a problem with the carb. i've tried messing with the fuel adjustment screws.....the right one doesn't really do much and the left one seems to control the mixture better. there is also a device on the right, that is not hooked up....looks to bump up the throttle? not familiar with older carbs....any info would be great. please note that i'm at 9,000 Feet above sea level and i'm not near a parts house....hour and a half one way....



PS: the wiring on this truck is shoddy(AKA the guy who rebuilt it, did not do a good job)....sometimes it won't start(no click, just a orange light on the dash), unless i lift up on the shifter in park.......i'll figure that out one day....lol

 

Update.

So I took off the top of the carb, and checked the float. Bowl seemed to be holding fuel, and Seemed to be fine.....checked movement of the float and noticed bubbles coming out when pressed. Could it be possible, that once heated at this altitude, that I could be suffering from vapor lock? I'm gonna check the timing tomorrow, as well....

 

Welcome to the forum

The solenoid on the right is usually used when the truck has a/c, to bump up the idle when the compresor is running.
This time of year, vapor lock is not as much of an issue unles it is dtill hot in your area.

Does the truck still have an EGR valve? You basically will need manifold vacuum to the transmission, power brake booster and the ductwork if it has an a/c dash.
you need ported vacuum ( only vacuum when the throttle opens) for the vacuum advance and EGR valve. The EGR usually runs thru a temp controlled vacuum tree to keep it from opening until the engine is warmed up.

 

Cool! to answer blatantly, it's snowing outside...lol.... But who knows, altitude is funny.

It has an EGR, if correct. It does not have a vacuum line going to it and was plugged off. It has no a/c (anymore?). The vacuum advance is hooked up fine and seems to be working. It has snowed a foot today, so getting out under it today is not an option. I'm going to replace fuel filter, pump, and rubber fuel lines on Tuesday, if possible.

 

Update!

Rebuilt the carb completely( was very clean inside, except most if the rubber was shot) and added the correct vacuum lines seemed fixed the problem. The power valve? On the bottom of the carb was shot. Also, going to the choke, one of the metal lines from the manifold was bent/ broken....fixed with a rubber hose and clamp.

 

Make sure you have a good fuel filter or your carb may get cruded up again. Also EGR plates under the carb are subject to internal corrosion and leaks you can't find from the outside. Especially the aluminum ones. Even if it's blocked off on the vacuum.

 

The choke heat tube from manifold to choke wont last long patched with rubber hose.You should get either a new piece of tubing or might can get a compression fitting to do permanent repair.

 

Hey all,
I have a 1984 F-250 and it has the 351W with a 2 barrel carb on it, and it failed emissions. the tech said it was running rich. The truck sat for over a year, so I am thinking do a repair kit on the carb. But when i looked up the card at autozone (the store i have here) it has a listing of 2 repair kits..I looked at the carb and on the top and sides there is no marking of what the number is on it to repair it. Any ideas? please help It has been a long time since i worked on a carb'ed vehicle and dont remeber anything

Rob

 

get us some pic.s ,. check the carb base under linkage on the side for a stamped part number , hard to see but there near intake bolt hole.

 

IMHO, check with the local hot-rod guys for a local carb shop.....they can either rebuild yours, sell you a rebuilt carb (autolite, holley) and you will have a very good carb when done...many of the carb kits are repackaged junk.