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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Head Work

Nope not shrink....I got a quote to work on the heads on my 360. Asked to price new guides and put in hardened exhaust seats. To say I was hit with sticker shock is putting it mild. Was worst case scenario around $400. It has been 10 years since I had work like this done but dad gum! I am going to check with another shop but was wondering if anyone else has had this done lately....BTW I am providing new springs, seals, caps and locks....
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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I have not. can't help there. Is this with you paying him for all new valves also?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:05 PM
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I am ***/u/ming at least the exhaust valves? Not sure the guides will need replacing either. My dad rebuilt the motor when I was 15 back in 1980 but it wasn't driven much by my grandfather. I bet I haven't put 10,000 miles on it since I got it in. 99. I'm going to run a compression test on it to see where that is. I'm just wanting to upgrade cam but thought those seats need replacing. It doesn't smoke or use oil so who knows.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Sodium filled valves are kinda pricey. They are better for the exhaust side's heat. Maybe that's what he's quoting you. That's why Ford put them in the Medium Duty Truck's FE's. The 361 and 391.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 06:48 PM
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Sounds right to me. The money is going to be in the exhaust seats, And more then likely they will be installing bronze liners, not guides.
Dover Cylinder Heads in Atlanta, Ga has them for about $125 per head exchange. But that was 5 yrs ago.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Yea, I remembered the last heads I had done didn't have to have the seats replaced....
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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Hmm.. think twice about rebuilding stock heads. IMO, it's not worth all the trouble with very little performance gains.

Consider Edelbrock's aluminum FE heads for the best bang for the buck.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Paid $800 all in labor cost. I supplied the ss intake & exh. valves, Manly exh seats, Harden retainers & springs, A 3 way cut valve job. Faced exh port sides, And a light head shave. But money well spend for a good job. A shop in Cupertino.Ca. This was back in 06

But with the aluminum performance heads you don't get the longevity engine life over iron heads. A number of yrs ago most vehicles were lucky to get 70,000 miles with out need head work or replacement of gaskets. Today engine are doing better but still not like old what was had from iron heads...orich
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 05:24 AM
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I paid about 800 for the pair of my heads to be redone. I did replace valves, springs, retainers, caps, seales, installed bushings in the valve guides, hardened valve seats, and full grind of both valve and seats. That was about 6 months ago. I feel it is well worth the money and cheeper then getting new heads. Iron heads are also more forgiving if you end up overheating then aluminum heads.....
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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The 360 is an engine built optimizing hours of service and torque over performance. I think the biggest gain in an AL head is weight reduction and not necessarily HP unless it significantly bumps the compression by having a smaller chamber. IMHO, the best bang for the buck you can do for the 360 is a lighter intake, 4V and headers. The cast irons are just fine and are the 390 units so any head swap place will have them in stock. That's where the savings are. Might be able to shave a Franklin off that quote by swapping unless you are concerned with originality. I paid $325 to have two 4.0L heads trued, magnafluxed, bushings and a valve job back in 08. It was just a little more than the swap price, but there are so many variants of the 4.0 head I didn't want to chance it. Not a problem with the 390 heads. Most of the time the only difference is the rockers they are sporting.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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If you have the bucks the eddys may be the way to go. You would have to watch the temp gauge though as noted above. Aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than the block. At normal temp this makes it a tad rough on the gaskets. At overheating temp it's really hard on the gaskets and those heads will warp quicker. The factory heads won't do this. Plus as a bonus you can get away with more advance on the timing with cast iron heads. The different heat absorbtion rate in the combustion chamber between aluminum and cast iron is the reason. If you stick with the cast iron do some port work.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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I'm really not interested in aftermarket. I am putting an offenhauser intake headers and already running a 4v. Cam I selected isn't to much of a hoss. I just want a mean street cruiser that likes pump gas.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Actually with today's ethanol content, higher compression is better. While alcohol has more potential energy, if the motor is not 'purposely built' for it (read that as not just adjusting fuel shot time) you will not reap any benefits from it. While the heads are off have them shaved and also have the intake matched to this. You can usually bump it up a point or so. Alcohol likes compression. Port and bowl work will help, but BB heads are not nearly as constipated as 289/302 of the era. Since the intake is the top portion of the head, match them appropriately.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 10:05 AM
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I have a buddy that has a set of 390 heads he took off his 73. Does anyone know if they have hardened exhaust seats already ?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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If they are oe heads with like a P/N D2TE,or D3TE, and so on, You can look at the exh valves and see the installed round seats if they are cleaned. A fresh valve job never hurts. You can lap them in which is like a mild valve job that restores the seat..orich
 
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