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Now I'm thinking they are saying to use a fortified thinset -or- an additive with the 317...
I never like a contaminated substrate, but your concrete is not going to move at all.
Is the epoxy going to hold to the tar any better than the latex would?
I polish floors for a living when using diamonds you have to start aggresive and work down to the fine diamonds for the polish same would be for the adhesive cut back Lots of work and very messy because HOT water is used also a real good commercial shop vac will be needed, So saying all this it would be cheeper in the long run to Backer board with Tap con screws made for concrete to fasten the backer board walla your ready for tile
I like the idea of using the backerboard if there is no other alternative.
I am thinking I will try a small test area with some extra tiles I have laying around from other projects and use the modified thinset. I can put down a couple tiles and see how they hold. I have plenty of other work to do in this room and at my mother's condo so I can easily let them sit for a couple weeks. If they hold that long I'll call it a success and do the whole room.
I would be more worried about the thin set to other chemical reaction and even straight to cut back it self, it does have a oil sealer and some thin sets don't like that for adhesion.I do understand that the OP does not want polished floors but the process with sanding discs and Diamonds would be A-lot of work LOL not to mention the water clean up. that was my 2cs for the day
I like the idea of using the backerboard if there is no other alternative.
I am thinking I will try a small test area with some extra tiles I have laying around from other projects and use the modified thinset. I can put down a couple tiles and see how they hold. I have plenty of other work to do in this room and at my mother's condo so I can easily let them sit for a couple weeks. If they hold that long I'll call it a success and do the whole room.
Thanks for all the help.
The backerboard would definitely be a solution, and you're looking at a minimum $1/sq ft for just material cost(using 1/4" board,screws,thinset). Hardibacker recommends using thinset under their product to minimize any deflection between the screws. That would still be true here, but if the thinset bond were compromised under the board the mechanical fasteners will hold it all down.
Regardless, I've seen tile lift from concrete surfaces that were once exposed to oil based products. Even after thorough cleaning and chemical prep, the oil can seep up and weaken the bond.
Wow, this is getting to be a lot more complicated than I thought. Maybe I'll just leave it plain concrete and put some cheap outdoor carpeting over it.
I appreciate all the help. Going to do some more online research and maybe even see if I can find a local tile guy to do it. I'm sure this has been done successfully before.
Wow, this is getting to be a lot more complicated than I thought. Maybe I'll just leave it plain concrete and put some cheap outdoor carpeting over it.
I appreciate all the help. Going to do some more online research and maybe even see if I can find a local tile guy to do it. I'm sure this has been done successfully before.
Research is always good ,Any type of mastic ( oil or water base ) wont take . Unless your laying wood flooring then diff ball game. scrape the floor to semi smooth, over lay with hardi backer 1/4 '' counter set Tap con screwes, ( with 1/16'' gap ) whats under the backer will prove to be moisture resitance, no need to put any other chem. lay tile to spec .Remember ( slab moisture content). Hardi Backer will Be fine. carpet will soak the moisture in return give mildew and Health issues
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Wow, this is getting to be a lot more complicated than I thought. Maybe I'll just leave it plain concrete and put some cheap outdoor carpeting over it.
I appreciate all the help. Going to do some more online research and maybe even see if I can find a local tile guy to do it. I'm sure this has been done successfully before.
wow your getting into a little of everything huh?
something they do in alaska, i dont know if its weird or not...
in concrete basements, they build a small 3/4"or so raised platform type maze over the concrete basements, and run pex thru it and turn the concrete floor into a heated floor then they plywood over that and can do pretty much any finish on top that, including backerboard for tile..
this may be your solution since your looking for hydronic heating, you could just do you heated basement floor instead of registers and have your tile too. nothings better then standing on a warmed tile floor... i have a small one in my entryway and love it.
Been a while since I updated everyone on what I have been up to on this project. Mainly because I took a month or so off to deal with Christmas and family stuff. Well, I have been pretty busy the last couple weeks. This project sucks but I think I am over the hump as far as the real nasty stuff.
Here are a couple photos to show what I have done on the floor.
I used a product called "747 Adhesive Remover" that I got at Home Depot. It worked well but what a pain in the neck. Used about eight gallons at $20 per. Lots of scrubbing. Then cleaned the floor with a concrete cleaner and it seems like it is about ready to go.
But, since I was this far I decided to remove all the walls, insulate and clean some other stuff up. Ran a bunch of cables, phone lines, data, etc. Hopefully I will be installing drywall this weekend.
Thank you. It has been a major effort but you know me, I at least like to try to do it right. I am still going to spot treat the few spots that are left. The pile of sand looking stuff is some Zep lightweight absorbent that works really well to soak up the slurry created by the adhesive.
I picked up some porcelain tile I got at Lowe's. I got 12x12 and 6x6 that I am going to lay in a pinwheel pattern. It is called Sedona Slate. Looks pretty nice in the boxes.
My goal is to have the room finished by the time nice weather gets here.....sure I will.
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