Running hot
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Whispering Pines, NC
Running hot
On my 83 f150 5.8 4x4 the factory gauge runs hot. It was running fine until I had a leak in the hose that runs to the temperature sender, and it was very low on antifreeze. I replaced the hose and anti freeze and now it shows that it's running hot. The temperature sensor and sender have been replaced and the coolant flushed. Would the truck running low on antifreeze for a short time have damaged something gauge,sender, or sensor related? I've taken off the radiator cap with the motor running and have established the water pump is working. The top hose is hot and the bottom is cooler. Any ideas?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
You can't bank on the gauges on these trucks. I burned one engine up because they said everything was fine, and I chased an overheating problem that didn't exist because the gauge said it was running hot. Most of us put an aftermarket temp gauge on just to know for sure what is happening. But, you could use an infrared thermometer to test.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,504
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From: Indian Falls, New York
You can't bank on the gauges on these trucks. I burned one engine up because they said everything was fine, and I chased an overheating problem that didn't exist because the gauge said it was running hot. Most of us put an aftermarket temp gauge on just to know for sure what is happening. But, you could use an infrared thermometer to test.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I have an aftermarket gauge currently but it leads me to ask this question....is there a way to replace the sensor and wire it up to the original gauge so I wouldn't have to run a separate gauge? I mean it would be useful to someone who wanted to keep the interior clean.
As for keeping the interior clean, I plan to put two gauges in the little pocket to the right of the steering column on Dad's truck. I've had the factory ammeter turned into a volt meter, so only need an oil pressure and temp gauge. That will clean up the interior as well as make them much more visible while driving. So watch that thread for how I that.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Why would you want to keep the factory gauge? Yes it's "clean" but what is "normal"?. What is "L"? What is "H"? The whole point is to figure out the actual temp you are running. And like Gary said, redundancy can be a good thing with important components.
To the original poster. If you are really running hot, you should be getting some other signs also. Like burning oil smells from the engine, pinging on acceleration, and it may run rough at idle when the fuel starts boiling in the carb.
If you replaced the sending unit and use thread tape or a lot of sealer to seal the threads, that can mess up your readings, the sensor need s a good ground to the engine.
Also, keep a check on the coolant level. You should run it with the cap off till the thermostat opens, so it can burp all the air out from when it was low.
To the original poster. If you are really running hot, you should be getting some other signs also. Like burning oil smells from the engine, pinging on acceleration, and it may run rough at idle when the fuel starts boiling in the carb.
If you replaced the sending unit and use thread tape or a lot of sealer to seal the threads, that can mess up your readings, the sensor need s a good ground to the engine.
Also, keep a check on the coolant level. You should run it with the cap off till the thermostat opens, so it can burp all the air out from when it was low.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 156
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From: Whispering Pines, NC
Thank you everyone. I'm going to price gauges today. Is there any way, as stupid as it sounds, to have the factory and aftermarket gauges run off of one sender? My truck is clean and I would like it to remain that way if possible.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
No, you can't run them off of one sender. Most inexpensive aftermarket gauges are mechanical rather than electrical. Mechanical gauges use a tube from a sender to the gauge and require drilling a hole in the firewall. And the electrical ones typically use a non-compatible sender to the factory gauges.
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