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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

battery light issue

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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:07 PM
  #1  
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battery light issue

I noticed a squeaking in my 1996 f250 so I replaced the idle pulley and tension pulleys go figure it still squeaks but now my battery light is on. I tested with a voltmeter without the truck running and the battery was at 12.5 v it was 40 degrees out I started the truck and it said 14.5v so I started to turn on everything in and on the truck to check it under load still said 14.5v. I did a diagnosis on it and got the TPS detects low voltage. Before I start to replace stuff under my hood what should I try to fix this issue. At this point don't even care about the squeak. Im not a mechanic I've been googling my way through this an learning on the fly.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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Oh and I checked all connections to check for corrosion and tightness I do fear my alternator may be on its way out
 
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Your battery voltages look fine. The TPS doesn't have anything to do with battery voltage; that's the acronym for the throttle position sensor. What it is seeing is a voltage on the wiper arm that is below the specified limit. That voltage is developed from a regulated reference voltage coming from the powertrain control module, or PCM. I'd check the voltages on the TPS with a multimeter to ground and see what they are before I started chucking parts at it. (With the ignition on and the engine off, one terminal should be zero or awful close to it, one should be about 5 volts, and one should be between 0.6 and 1.0. If you slowly open the throttle while watching that third terminal the voltage on it should increase smoothly to something above 4 volts -- memory says 4.75 or more.)

Could you have bumped a connector with your wrist or arm while you were replacing the tensioner? Maybe knocking it askew so one pin isn't making good contact any longer?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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I checked all connections around where I was working all seemed clean and tight. I did drain my battery a few weeks ago I left the truck key on after I put it in neutral to change my rear u joint so battery died that I think could be throwing the tips code so I'm going to disconnect the battery for a while to see if that resets it. The truck idled great and accelerates fantastic. Could the alternator be on the way out and if so should I look at getting a 130 amp. Or stick with a smaller one. I don't have many accessories to run.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 03:16 AM
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12.5 volts static and 14.5 volts running is normal. if the batteries do not drain overnight, there is nothing wrong with the alternator.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 03:55 AM
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Check the single wire connector on the alternator. Mine did the same thing, and cleaning off the connections on the single wire fixed it.
 
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