Cold Weather Woes
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 327
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From: Flaherty, KY
Cold Weather Woes
Now that the weather is getting cold, I've noticed a few issues that I need to tackle.
a) The ignition switch will hardly turn when it's under 20 degrees out. Even at normal temps I consider it semi-hard to turn, but when really cold I need two hands to get it over into the start position. What gives?
b) Heater control likes to get stuck in the defrost position. If I move it to defrost it will stay there, even when moved back to "vent" or another position. After a couple drives it will settle into the correct position. But I've had times where it's been in the defrost position without me putting it there. This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
e) What oil weight is recommended for winter? I've run SAE30 and 15w-40 all summer, but worry they're a tad thick for winter temps here, which reach below 0 a handful of times each winter.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
Sorry so many items in a single post, but they're all weather related and I didn't want to clutter up the forum with a half dozen new threads. Any help would be appreciated.
a) The ignition switch will hardly turn when it's under 20 degrees out. Even at normal temps I consider it semi-hard to turn, but when really cold I need two hands to get it over into the start position. What gives?
b) Heater control likes to get stuck in the defrost position. If I move it to defrost it will stay there, even when moved back to "vent" or another position. After a couple drives it will settle into the correct position. But I've had times where it's been in the defrost position without me putting it there. This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
e) What oil weight is recommended for winter? I've run SAE30 and 15w-40 all summer, but worry they're a tad thick for winter temps here, which reach below 0 a handful of times each winter.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
Sorry so many items in a single post, but they're all weather related and I didn't want to clutter up the forum with a half dozen new threads. Any help would be appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Now that the weather is getting cold, I've noticed a few issues that I need to tackle.
a) The ignition switch will hardly turn when it's under 20 degrees out. Even at normal temps I consider it semi-hard to turn, but when really cold I need two hands to get it over into the start position. What gives?
Mine is a little stiff too but not that bad. There is a switch dealio on the top of the steering column under the dash. I think you have to lower the column to access it easily but i'm not sure. After you get that far I don't know if it can be lubricated or if it needs replaced.
b) Heater control likes to get stuck in the defrost position. If I move it to defrost it will stay there, even when moved back to "vent" or another position. After a couple drives it will settle into the correct position. But I've had times where it's been in the defrost position without me putting it there. This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
I think most setups are vacuum controlled unless you don't have factory A/C. Maybe a cracked vacuum line or just some leaves blocking one of the blend doors under the dash? It could even be the vacuum selector switch that you move. Start with the easy stuff and track down the vacuum line, if some of the other hoses on the firewall are leaking it could be possible you aren't always getting enough vacuum to actuate the door? Just a guess.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
This happened to me too. Leaves and pine needles that fell through the holes in the cowl accumulated in the heater box. There is a resistor that lowers the fan speed on any setting other than high. This creates heat, mine eventually caught the leaves on fire and I had smoke pouring out of the vents. Remove the blower fan and clean the leaves out.
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
Do you pump the gas before starting? I usually only had to pump the gas once on my truck, but if it had been sitting a while or was really cold sometimes it would start and die if I didn't pump more than once. I know some people have to pump the gas a lot. That is unnecessary if everything is setup correctly. It could also be the vacuum pull-off for the choke, or even just the choke not quite being set right.
e) What oil weight is recommended for winter? I've run SAE30 and 15w-40 all summer, but worry they're a tad thick for winter temps here, which reach below 0 a handful of times each winter.
I use 15W40 all year round but you could go for 10W30.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
It helps the engine warm up and run better when cold. It draws in hot air from around the exhaust manifold. I don't know about replacements, my truck fan fine without. But if you are looking for every bit of driveability, i'm sure someone else can chime in on finding a replacement. (You could always look around in a scrapyard..)
Sorry so many items in a single post, but they're all weather related and I didn't want to clutter up the forum with a half dozen new threads. Any help would be appreciated.
a) The ignition switch will hardly turn when it's under 20 degrees out. Even at normal temps I consider it semi-hard to turn, but when really cold I need two hands to get it over into the start position. What gives?
Mine is a little stiff too but not that bad. There is a switch dealio on the top of the steering column under the dash. I think you have to lower the column to access it easily but i'm not sure. After you get that far I don't know if it can be lubricated or if it needs replaced.
b) Heater control likes to get stuck in the defrost position. If I move it to defrost it will stay there, even when moved back to "vent" or another position. After a couple drives it will settle into the correct position. But I've had times where it's been in the defrost position without me putting it there. This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
I think most setups are vacuum controlled unless you don't have factory A/C. Maybe a cracked vacuum line or just some leaves blocking one of the blend doors under the dash? It could even be the vacuum selector switch that you move. Start with the easy stuff and track down the vacuum line, if some of the other hoses on the firewall are leaking it could be possible you aren't always getting enough vacuum to actuate the door? Just a guess.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
This happened to me too. Leaves and pine needles that fell through the holes in the cowl accumulated in the heater box. There is a resistor that lowers the fan speed on any setting other than high. This creates heat, mine eventually caught the leaves on fire and I had smoke pouring out of the vents. Remove the blower fan and clean the leaves out.
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
Do you pump the gas before starting? I usually only had to pump the gas once on my truck, but if it had been sitting a while or was really cold sometimes it would start and die if I didn't pump more than once. I know some people have to pump the gas a lot. That is unnecessary if everything is setup correctly. It could also be the vacuum pull-off for the choke, or even just the choke not quite being set right.
e) What oil weight is recommended for winter? I've run SAE30 and 15w-40 all summer, but worry they're a tad thick for winter temps here, which reach below 0 a handful of times each winter.
I use 15W40 all year round but you could go for 10W30.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
It helps the engine warm up and run better when cold. It draws in hot air from around the exhaust manifold. I don't know about replacements, my truck fan fine without. But if you are looking for every bit of driveability, i'm sure someone else can chime in on finding a replacement. (You could always look around in a scrapyard..)
Sorry so many items in a single post, but they're all weather related and I didn't want to clutter up the forum with a half dozen new threads. Any help would be appreciated.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 624
Likes: 55
As to problem "A", you are experiencing warnings that the ignition-actuating rod is fixing to break.
This is a cheapie pot-metal gizmo that connects the turning of the key-switch with the actual electric switch mounted way down toward the bottom end of the column.
This gizmo is entirely in-accessible for much needed cleaning and lubrication; the old lubricant mixes with grime and metal dust from various column parts wearing away, and turns to concrete, thus the fight you are experiencing when trying to turn the key.
When this pot-metal gizmo breaks, it won't be at home in the garage, but way out somewhere in the worst possible place you can imagine, leaving you stranded, and possibly raped and pillaged.
There are two fixes; one is to completely dis-assemble the entire column to replace this offending part; the other --- and much preferred --- method is to convert to either good old-school dash-mounted key-switch or do as I did and convert to toggle-switches and push-button start.
I also pulled the wheel and dis-abled the silly (and very dangerous) column locking pin.
I much prefer my system over the factory key-switch system and my system is bullet-proof and can be diagnosed and bypassed in seconds in the highly un-likely event that it should ever fail.
This is a cheapie pot-metal gizmo that connects the turning of the key-switch with the actual electric switch mounted way down toward the bottom end of the column.
This gizmo is entirely in-accessible for much needed cleaning and lubrication; the old lubricant mixes with grime and metal dust from various column parts wearing away, and turns to concrete, thus the fight you are experiencing when trying to turn the key.
When this pot-metal gizmo breaks, it won't be at home in the garage, but way out somewhere in the worst possible place you can imagine, leaving you stranded, and possibly raped and pillaged.
There are two fixes; one is to completely dis-assemble the entire column to replace this offending part; the other --- and much preferred --- method is to convert to either good old-school dash-mounted key-switch or do as I did and convert to toggle-switches and push-button start.
I also pulled the wheel and dis-abled the silly (and very dangerous) column locking pin.
I much prefer my system over the factory key-switch system and my system is bullet-proof and can be diagnosed and bypassed in seconds in the highly un-likely event that it should ever fail.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
d) Your pull-off gap may be slightly wide, allowing warm weather starts, but not cold; even an 1/8 turn on the screw will make some difference. An almost immediate stall, like you have, isn't related to the choke cap position - assuming the choke is fully closing initially.
If your pull-off setting is correct (the spec varies engine to engine, even with the same carb), an extra pump on cold mornings should be all you need.
Automatic chokes can be a headache, & major temperature changes will affect their characteristics.....but when set up properly, which can take a bit of perseverance, they will work dependably.
The pull-off & fast-idle cam adjustments need to be done in the right order as they affect each other.
FMC400 has several threads on setting them;
& this link is also good -
Adjusting Automatic Chokes: A Semi-Universal Approach
f) Even in more moderate temperatures, having the air cleaner intake diverter working (& the hose in place), makes a big difference to warm-up times.
Cold, wet weather can also cause ice to build up in the carb venturi.
Rockauto have the hose - 1985 FORD F-250 Pre-Heater Hose
If your pull-off setting is correct (the spec varies engine to engine, even with the same carb), an extra pump on cold mornings should be all you need.
Automatic chokes can be a headache, & major temperature changes will affect their characteristics.....but when set up properly, which can take a bit of perseverance, they will work dependably.
The pull-off & fast-idle cam adjustments need to be done in the right order as they affect each other.
FMC400 has several threads on setting them;
& this link is also good -
Adjusting Automatic Chokes: A Semi-Universal Approach
f) Even in more moderate temperatures, having the air cleaner intake diverter working (& the hose in place), makes a big difference to warm-up times.
Cold, wet weather can also cause ice to build up in the carb venturi.
Rockauto have the hose - 1985 FORD F-250 Pre-Heater Hose
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
D) it could be that your choke is adjusted too tight for the cold you see there.
That combined with the lack of a hot air duct can make it stall.
Perhaps just the time it takes to restart allows the choke to warm and open a bit.
I know I had this problem.
Read the Holley instruction manual for the 3-1346 rebuild kit to learn what the settings are for your 4180 and how to set it.
E) I often run synthetic 5W-40 in winter. (Shell Rotella T-6)
...In fact I just did my winter oil change.
It is vitally important for oil to circulate in the first few seconds after startup.
If you question this LEARN how the rating system works.
If you live where really bitter weather exists (often below 0* and at times far below that) I would suggest even a 0W-XX weight synthetic oil.
Just my 2c
That combined with the lack of a hot air duct can make it stall.
Perhaps just the time it takes to restart allows the choke to warm and open a bit.
I know I had this problem.
Read the Holley instruction manual for the 3-1346 rebuild kit to learn what the settings are for your 4180 and how to set it.
E) I often run synthetic 5W-40 in winter. (Shell Rotella T-6)
...In fact I just did my winter oil change.
It is vitally important for oil to circulate in the first few seconds after startup.
If you question this LEARN how the rating system works.
If you live where really bitter weather exists (often below 0* and at times far below that) I would suggest even a 0W-XX weight synthetic oil.
Just my 2c
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 327
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From: Flaherty, KY
My semi-educated guess is that the choke vacuum pulloff is opening too far, or too soon.
Down to about 25 degrees it will start and stay running at high idle until I tap the gas pedal, just how it's suppose to behave. Below that temp, it will fire right up (I usually hit the gas 2-3 times before cranking), and then die a couple seconds later. I have to re-prime (2-3 pumps of accelerator) and it will fire back up and stay running.
I'm not entirely sure how the linkage is adjusted to change the pulloff. The article, while helpful, did not go into great detail about this procedure. Is there a screw to adjust on this carb? I know the choke is closing fully, then it immediately opens up a bit once the engine is started.
The ignition switch worries me, if it were ever to fail, is it still possible to start the truck by jumping the two terminals on the starter solenoid? Meaning will the ignition still turn "on", but not go into "start"?
Down to about 25 degrees it will start and stay running at high idle until I tap the gas pedal, just how it's suppose to behave. Below that temp, it will fire right up (I usually hit the gas 2-3 times before cranking), and then die a couple seconds later. I have to re-prime (2-3 pumps of accelerator) and it will fire back up and stay running.
I'm not entirely sure how the linkage is adjusted to change the pulloff. The article, while helpful, did not go into great detail about this procedure. Is there a screw to adjust on this carb? I know the choke is closing fully, then it immediately opens up a bit once the engine is started.
The ignition switch worries me, if it were ever to fail, is it still possible to start the truck by jumping the two terminals on the starter solenoid? Meaning will the ignition still turn "on", but not go into "start"?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You bend the tab to adjust the fast idle.
If the ignition rod fails it usually fails in tension, not compression.
i.e. you can't shut the truck off.
My truck used to get sticky every winter.
I just hosed all the dust filled gritty grease out of there.
If the ignition rod fails it usually fails in tension, not compression.
i.e. you can't shut the truck off.
My truck used to get sticky every winter.
I just hosed all the dust filled gritty grease out of there.
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Cargo Master
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http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...9R10060rev.pdf
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Flaherty, KY
Good to know. At least dumping the clutch in 4th gear would fix that problem.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Now that the weather is getting cold, I've noticed a few issues that I need to tackle.
I can only chime in on a few things so I hope this helps any...
b) ...This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
I don't think you will have to worry about thermal shock. The heat coming out of the vents (even the defroster) are not THAT hot if you were to compare that to an air temperature that would be needed to thermally shock the ice-ice cold glass. I could be completely wrong or wrong in that -20* temps could cause a problem but if you're weather is anything like it is here in NJ where we don't *usually* see anything in the single digits unless its' a blizzard, I think you'll be ok.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
In conjunction with Sw1tchfoots reply, I had the same issue except my leaves/needles only caught when I pulled the blower motor out to test it and the hot blower motor resistor ignited them. I also learned a cool little trick too. There is a thermal fuse on the resistor. If you're resistor is "bad" don't just toss it until you check the fuse. You can but a replacement fuse at Radio Shack for like $5 at the absolute most. A new resistor from the parst store is like $30-40... and the fuse can simply be soldered in
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
Choke or high idle setting isn't set right. uh, then again is this a carbureted engine? My carb engine fires right up even in dead of cold but the choke is definately set correctly as well as the idle mixture settings and the hi-idle speed. Took me a long time to get that stuff correct though...you'll get there!
.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
I am not overly familiar with fords setup on this but my Oldsmobile and other GM cars used the same practice. The idea was to pull warm air off the exhaust manifold and help heat the engine up quicker. You should still be able to get a hose at the parts store. Don't go buying some aluminum look-alike hose that's really plastic from home depot. There's a VERY good chance it'll melt and potentially start a fire!
I can only chime in on a few things so I hope this helps any...
b) ...This worries me if in extreme cold, it goes to defrost, as sudden hot air has a good chance of cracking the windshield.
I don't think you will have to worry about thermal shock. The heat coming out of the vents (even the defroster) are not THAT hot if you were to compare that to an air temperature that would be needed to thermally shock the ice-ice cold glass. I could be completely wrong or wrong in that -20* temps could cause a problem but if you're weather is anything like it is here in NJ where we don't *usually* see anything in the single digits unless its' a blizzard, I think you'll be ok.
c) When using the two lowest positions on the fan, I start to smell smoke, but not on the higher settings. This is a recent development, as earlier in the fall all fan positions seemed to work okay.
In conjunction with Sw1tchfoots reply, I had the same issue except my leaves/needles only caught when I pulled the blower motor out to test it and the hot blower motor resistor ignited them. I also learned a cool little trick too. There is a thermal fuse on the resistor. If you're resistor is "bad" don't just toss it until you check the fuse. You can but a replacement fuse at Radio Shack for like $5 at the absolute most. A new resistor from the parst store is like $30-40... and the fuse can simply be soldered in
d) On a really cold start, the truck fires up but dies after a couple seconds. If I hit the accelerator a couple times and retry, it fires right up and stays running.
Choke or high idle setting isn't set right. uh, then again is this a carbureted engine? My carb engine fires right up even in dead of cold but the choke is definately set correctly as well as the idle mixture settings and the hi-idle speed. Took me a long time to get that stuff correct though...you'll get there!
.
f) The stove pipe from the passenger manifold to the air cleaner inlet is missing. I know this is for cold weather, but is it essential and what does it do? Where can I find a new one, or what is it called?
I am not overly familiar with fords setup on this but my Oldsmobile and other GM cars used the same practice. The idea was to pull warm air off the exhaust manifold and help heat the engine up quicker. You should still be able to get a hose at the parts store. Don't go buying some aluminum look-alike hose that's really plastic from home depot. There's a VERY good chance it'll melt and potentially start a fire!
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 327
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From: Flaherty, KY
I ripped into the blower motor duct, and sure enough it was packed full of pine needles and leaves. Naturally the motor sliced them up into nice fine pieces, which were jammed into the resistor network, which is just a coil of wire, essentially a heating element. I'm surprised the air made it past all the blockage into the vents.
I'm still stumped on the vent position getting stuck on defrost. I see no vacuum leaks, and when I removed one of the vacuum hoses, it still had vacuum that escaped almost 12 hours after I last ran the truck. There must be a one-way valve somewhere that holds the vacuum. Should I be looking inside the truck? Those all seem like hard plastic vacuum lines with little chance of leaking.
I fiddled with the choke rod, there was a LOT of play in it, because the bushing at the choke plate is missing. So the rod had 1/4" of movement in either direction before it made contact with the choke plate. I made a makeshift bushing which roughly centered the rod, though it's not nearly cold enough (70 degrees today) to give it a good test.
Autozone carries the pre-heater hose, going to pick one up today and maybe that will improve cold weather driveability. Thanks all for the tips and helpful info.
I'm still stumped on the vent position getting stuck on defrost. I see no vacuum leaks, and when I removed one of the vacuum hoses, it still had vacuum that escaped almost 12 hours after I last ran the truck. There must be a one-way valve somewhere that holds the vacuum. Should I be looking inside the truck? Those all seem like hard plastic vacuum lines with little chance of leaking.
I fiddled with the choke rod, there was a LOT of play in it, because the bushing at the choke plate is missing. So the rod had 1/4" of movement in either direction before it made contact with the choke plate. I made a makeshift bushing which roughly centered the rod, though it's not nearly cold enough (70 degrees today) to give it a good test.
Autozone carries the pre-heater hose, going to pick one up today and maybe that will improve cold weather driveability. Thanks all for the tips and helpful info.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
I ripped into the blower motor duct, and sure enough it was packed full of pine needles and leaves. Naturally the motor sliced them up into nice fine pieces, which were jammed into the resistor network, which is just a coil of wire, essentially a heating element. I'm surprised the air made it past all the blockage into the vents.
I'm still stumped on the vent position getting stuck on defrost. I see no vacuum leaks, and when I removed one of the vacuum hoses, it still had vacuum that escaped almost 12 hours after I last ran the truck. There must be a one-way valve somewhere that holds the vacuum. Should I be looking inside the truck? Those all seem like hard plastic vacuum lines with little chance of leaking.
I fiddled with the choke rod, there was a LOT of play in it, because the bushing at the choke plate is missing. So the rod had 1/4" of movement in either direction before it made contact with the choke plate. I made a makeshift bushing which roughly centered the rod, though it's not nearly cold enough (70 degrees today) to give it a good test.
Autozone carries the pre-heater hose, going to pick one up today and maybe that will improve cold weather driveability. Thanks all for the tips and helpful info.
I'm still stumped on the vent position getting stuck on defrost. I see no vacuum leaks, and when I removed one of the vacuum hoses, it still had vacuum that escaped almost 12 hours after I last ran the truck. There must be a one-way valve somewhere that holds the vacuum. Should I be looking inside the truck? Those all seem like hard plastic vacuum lines with little chance of leaking.
I fiddled with the choke rod, there was a LOT of play in it, because the bushing at the choke plate is missing. So the rod had 1/4" of movement in either direction before it made contact with the choke plate. I made a makeshift bushing which roughly centered the rod, though it's not nearly cold enough (70 degrees today) to give it a good test.
Autozone carries the pre-heater hose, going to pick one up today and maybe that will improve cold weather driveability. Thanks all for the tips and helpful info.
This might be wrong information but I personally have never really noticed any kind of significant increase in warm-up time with that hose. That being said the last time I had a pre-heater hose on one of my vehicles was in my Oldsmobile. My other truck is a diesel and my other car is fuel injected... Also on top of that, my truck just has an open element air filter perched atop the carb. Other than some inquiries I have about a coolant temp issue when it really cold (a total separate issue I'm trying to sort out on my truck) I haven't noticed any kind of delayed warm up with the open element air filter.
Regarding the carb I don't think I can help you there... Is yours a Holley carb or a factory carb? I have an Edelbrock which in my opinion is a little easier to deal with. Maybe that's because I've never really played with a Holley carb or anything other than a GM Quardrajet for that matter. The Edelbrock carb is VERY similar in setup to GM's q-jet so that's where I have the most experience. I realize a chock is a choke and it being set right shouldn't matter on brand but I don't even know what the holley or factory ford setups look like...
As far as the defroster goes you're going to have to poke around under the dash. If you don't audible or visually see a vacuum leak (which doesn't necessarily mean you don't have a leak), perhaps the vacuum motor is just tired and not fully opening or closing when vacuum is applied to it. Could be a tired spring or something of that sorts in the motor. I've never really had to play with vacuum motors. I would imagine if the vacuum motor diaphragm went bad you would have a relatively obviously leak. Again someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
I'm out poking around with my HVAC system as well since my heat seems to just suck on a cold day. I'll see if I can make any sense of how the defrost option works.
Do you have a vacuum pump or one of those mightyvacs hand vacuum pumps? The mightyvacs have a gauge on them. What I would suggest doing is [if you don't have one], borrow one from a friend, see if advance or autozone rent one out or find a harbor freight and get one. If harbor freight isn't nearby you can always find a mightyvac at a Sears store. They're not overly expensive (I think mine was around $30 at the time) and a very versatile tool to add to your tool box. They can be used to bleed brake lines, etc as well as test for vac. leaks.
Anyway, using a vacuum pump with a gauge (lets just say the mightyvac for all intents and purposes here) disconnect the vac hose at the firewall/heater box that goes into the cab. This feeds vacuum to the HVAC controls. Using the right attachments, hook that hard vac line up to your mightyvac and pull some vacuum. You probably don't need more than 10" or so to do this test. I don't know how much vacuum is applied to that line when the engine is running so I just wouldn't want you to over-vacuum the system and really create a problem if that's even possible.
OK so now that you've pulled some vacuum, the gauge should hold at that reading. At first the gauge might leak down a little but that's only because if the HVAC controls is set to off, there's a vac motor right at the heater box (in the engine) that is going to rob some vacuum so it can pull closed. The purpose of that particular motor is to move the fresh air/recirc damper.
Any of this make sense? I can throw together a very quick youtube video if you'd like. Like I said before I'm out playing with my own truck this afternoon so Its really no trouble to do so especially with an iPhone. I can shoot a quickie and have it online shortly after. Isn't technology great?
Hope this helps some!!!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Flaherty, KY
Yes the truck has the Holley 4180.
I discovered that the vacuum diaphragm is toast on the air inlet valve that the pre-heater hose connects to. Right now it's essentially a vacuum leak. I have vacuum coming to the valve, but when I apply the vacuum to the hose (or suck on the hose to create vacuum), it's like sucking through an open straw. So the pre-heater hose will have to wait until I get this sorted out. Does anyone know how to replace this?
I'm not overly concerned if this gadget makes a big difference or not in cold weather warm-up / driveability, I just want everything working like it was designed. I'm fairly confident Ford wouldn't have spent the money on it, if it didn't make a noticeable difference. While I don't exactly live in an arctic climate, it does get pretty darn cold here when winter storms move through.
I discovered that the vacuum diaphragm is toast on the air inlet valve that the pre-heater hose connects to. Right now it's essentially a vacuum leak. I have vacuum coming to the valve, but when I apply the vacuum to the hose (or suck on the hose to create vacuum), it's like sucking through an open straw. So the pre-heater hose will have to wait until I get this sorted out. Does anyone know how to replace this?
I'm not overly concerned if this gadget makes a big difference or not in cold weather warm-up / driveability, I just want everything working like it was designed. I'm fairly confident Ford wouldn't have spent the money on it, if it didn't make a noticeable difference. While I don't exactly live in an arctic climate, it does get pretty darn cold here when winter storms move through.