Another cold start thread
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Quaker Hill
Another cold start thread
Hey guys, I know there's a bazillion cold start threads, but I don't have time to search right now. Went to start the flatbed today. Has new Motorcraft GP's, new GPR, battery's on 250 amp engine start. Cranks over real fast, lots of white smoke, hiccups but won't fire. Disconnected the ICP, doesn't even hiccup or cough now. Didn't have it plugged in last night, 23* this AM. Any ideas to get her running. Ether isn't an option.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
You've had so much going on lately, I lost track if you have new sticks or not... 220K is reaching their expiry date. 5-40 oil or 15-40? You confirmed the GP relay is functioning and you let them warm up at least 30 seconds?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Tuttle, OK
I disagree with this. These sticks can easily go 350k and even 400k. New O rings are commonly needed but the sticks themselves are more robust than most other makes.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
I have a strong theory as to why the 200K - 275K number, but it's controversial and I don't relish stirring things up unless I have something concrete to plant my feet on.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Tuttle, OK
I'll bite, whats your theory?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
I allowed myself to get sucked into one of these without firm footing recently, I'll pass on an open discussion. I can PM later.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Quaker Hill
Yup, cycled GP's a few times. The GPR is 1 day old, my GPR led cane on every time. GP's were installed last March. I posted my perdels on this truck a few weeks ago and everything looked good, number 8 was a little high, but it has a gray Napa CPS in it, so I wasn't real worried. I have been doing a lot to this truck lately, actually both. My business is dead without them, and there's enough stuff to keep me awake at night during snowplow season without wondering about trucks. Fortunately, nothing I've done so far has stopped me. It's all been agead of the curve. Also, a light oily coating in the ICP connecter is not correct right? The nut is on there, but I don't see how it could come off over the wiring harness anyway. Unless there's another one I didn't know I had? Thanks guys, I really appreciate your time and wisdom!
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Elder User
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From: Quaker Hill
Glow plug light stayed on at least 90 seconds, so first time, 90 seconds. The key was cycled every time between cranking sessions after that. I was concerned at one point the GPS had been on too long, so I let it sit 5-10 minutes after that, while the charger juiced the batts up again. And I do realize 10.5v is minimum for running PCM. Not trying to be snarky, just putting as much relevant data out as possible, cause your guys time is valuable.
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Elder User
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From: Quaker Hill
Ok, so I am waiting on a new ICP sensor and a HPO line o ring. Just before I placed my order with Clay, I noticed a wet spot on the pavement. After crawling under and checking it out, it appears my fuel bowl drain has started leaking. Maybe this somehow allowed air into my fuel system the other day? Between that and some oil in my ICP plug, I'm hoping that solves it, but will post results when I get these parts installed.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Hagerstown, MD
We just had a fuel bowl drain go down on our '00 Excursion with 455k. Very gradually went from a slight diesel smell to full on pouring out yesterday morning in about 3 months time. Anyway, if that's not your problem that's a pretty decent coincidence. Good luck!
I don't believe bad/oily ICP sensor will cause no start though. Just crappy running conditions. I could be wrong.
I don't believe bad/oily ICP sensor will cause no start though. Just crappy running conditions. I could be wrong.
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I had water in my fuel last winter, but my WIF light never came on. I usually drain it every filter change, at the same time as my oil changes, but it didn't get done before the temps hit the -35*f. The freezing water in my bowl broke water drain valve. The truck was tough to start, but eventually it did, and ran fine for about ten minutes before it died to lack of fuel. All the fuel from a fresh tank, probably 30 gallons or so was all over my driveway. With our electric lift pumps, Even if your bowl was empty, just waiting for the WTS light is long enough for the bowl to fill back up. Since you are getting white smoke, as in cold, unburnt diesel, I would say you are getting fuel, and your battery voltage it staying high enough to fire the injectors. I'm wondering about your glow plugs, or your relay. The sputtering and coughing, with lots of white smoke sound like a cold diesel trying to start. If your LED is coming on, is it connected to the big post or the little post? The little post is the switch, but if the switch isn't working, the big post doesn't light up.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
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Get yourself some Wolverine heaters and plug your truck in.
I run the factory block heater, an oil pan and a transmission pan heater. Also have a battery heater haven't needed to use it.
Nothing like it being 10* ambient temp, coming outside and having your engine oil temp be at 90ish degrees and transmission temp around 50*. Makes starting the truck extremely easy!
I run the factory block heater, an oil pan and a transmission pan heater. Also have a battery heater haven't needed to use it.
Nothing like it being 10* ambient temp, coming outside and having your engine oil temp be at 90ish degrees and transmission temp around 50*. Makes starting the truck extremely easy!