How do you replace ball joints on 1997 e350?
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How do you replace ball joints on 1997 e350?
I went to have my snow tires installed at a shop and asked the mechanic if he could checkout the front end because the van pulls left when driving down the road(already replaced both calipers, didn't fix it). He said the passenger side is pretty well worn and driver is in okay shape. I might as well do all of them. Just wondering what to expect for this job?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
How well are you equipped to handle this job? Have ball joint press etc etc?
I have photos of parts of the process done with nothing more than an impact gun and typical hand tools. Replaced all four of mine along with all tie rod ends etc recently.
I bought all Moog parts from Amazon---$378 for all parts, free shipping.
I have photos of parts of the process done with nothing more than an impact gun and typical hand tools. Replaced all four of mine along with all tie rod ends etc recently.
I bought all Moog parts from Amazon---$378 for all parts, free shipping.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
If you've already done this on another Ford especially with the pinch bolt steering knuckles E-Series aren't too much different.
Here's a link to my PhotoBucket folder showing various views of an actual E250 ball joint replacement. Ball Joints Photos by JWAPhotos | Photobucket Keep in mind they're in no particular order.
Hope this helps!
Here's a link to my PhotoBucket folder showing various views of an actual E250 ball joint replacement. Ball Joints Photos by JWAPhotos | Photobucket Keep in mind they're in no particular order.
Hope this helps!
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thanks for the pictures. How difficult is it to remove the rotors and do you know how to re torque the the wheel bearings upon assembly?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Rotors are easy----cotter pin, protective sheild and spindle nut, a keyed washer, pull gently outward remembering to catch the outer bearing before it falls on the ground or floor. Now is a good time to consider changing bearings and seals----they're cheap enough to replace and it only makes sense because you're in there already.
There might be some who say to reuse the bearings etc but if you don't know when they were last changed or properly greased its just not worth the risk. A highly skilled mechanic who does this everyday might better judge this but if that's not you and I we maybe need to install new. If so remember to proper pack them before installing and make sure the hub recess has plenty inside it too.
I'll leave describing the proper sequence of tightening and final torque of the spindle nut to someone with a good procedure. I've always tightened them enough to stop rotation, back them off, tighten once again, back off, rotate rotor several times before applying a final torque of 15 ft'lbs. This is NOT a factory or best practice method, simply a way I've been told to do it. It's worked in the past on late '70's thru mid '80's GM's.
There might be some who say to reuse the bearings etc but if you don't know when they were last changed or properly greased its just not worth the risk. A highly skilled mechanic who does this everyday might better judge this but if that's not you and I we maybe need to install new. If so remember to proper pack them before installing and make sure the hub recess has plenty inside it too.
I'll leave describing the proper sequence of tightening and final torque of the spindle nut to someone with a good procedure. I've always tightened them enough to stop rotation, back them off, tighten once again, back off, rotate rotor several times before applying a final torque of 15 ft'lbs. This is NOT a factory or best practice method, simply a way I've been told to do it. It's worked in the past on late '70's thru mid '80's GM's.
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From: south louisiana
I don't torque the spindle nut at all. I tighten it to where the slack in the bearings is removed, turning the rotor as I go to seat the bearings into the races. I then determine where the cotter pin hole is in the spindle in relation to the slots in the nut. If it's dead on, then I insert the pin. If not, then I tighten the nut til the hole's aligned. If the rotor doesn't spin freely, then I back off the opposite way to the next slot
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I don't want to step on any toes but both methods presented so far--mine included--are not necessarily repeatable, that is to say they don't go by an acknowledged way to properly set wheel bearings in place. Anything relying on a sense of feel or past experience can't be assumed to yield the best results.
Too loose or too tight and you'll have premature bearing wear, possible damage to the spindle as well. If you can wait until Thursday morning I can find my copy of the Ford service manual for our vans and copy it here.
I'd hate to have you follow a "seat of the pants" approach and it cause problems down the road. If you need to move on this immediately I'd wish you best of luck!
Too loose or too tight and you'll have premature bearing wear, possible damage to the spindle as well. If you can wait until Thursday morning I can find my copy of the Ford service manual for our vans and copy it here.
I'd hate to have you follow a "seat of the pants" approach and it cause problems down the road. If you need to move on this immediately I'd wish you best of luck!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Not sure what size socket you need for that nut---most likely between 1" and 1 1/4" or metric equivalent---sorry 'bout that.
As I feared the OEM service manual I have doesn't improve much on what we've posted so far about the wheel bearing pre-load via the spindle nut. Here's what I found:
-Position the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle.
-Install the outer front wheel bearing, the front wheel outer bearing
retainer washer and the spindle nut.
-While rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle
nut.
-Loosen the spindle nut two turns.
-Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and
rotor.
-Loosen the spindle nut.
-Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and
rotor.
CAUTION:
Do not disturb the bearing adjustment when installing the nut retainer.
-Install the nut retainer, a new cotter pin and the hub grease cap.
Not really all that how to but might be helpful anyway. It seems there's little in way of a step-by-step method for this.
As I feared the OEM service manual I have doesn't improve much on what we've posted so far about the wheel bearing pre-load via the spindle nut. Here's what I found:
-Position the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle.
-Install the outer front wheel bearing, the front wheel outer bearing
retainer washer and the spindle nut.
-While rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle
nut.
-Loosen the spindle nut two turns.
-Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and
rotor.
-Loosen the spindle nut.
-Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and
rotor.
CAUTION:
Do not disturb the bearing adjustment when installing the nut retainer.
-Install the nut retainer, a new cotter pin and the hub grease cap.
Not really all that how to but might be helpful anyway. It seems there's little in way of a step-by-step method for this.