Hey Rich,
Another lowering option upfront, depending upon what suspension you have is to use a lowering spindle. Imagine the wheel mounting point moving up a few inches. This effectively would lower the truck.
The benefit of a lowering spindle is you'd maintain stock suspension geometry. By just cutting the spring, you lose suspension travel, probably foul up the geometry which can create bump steer and possibly bottom out your shocks, which would kill them. Ride quality will unlikely be maintained when doing a large cut from the springs.

I'd probably limit cutting springs to 1" adjustments.

If it is a relatively recent chevrolet front end, suspect the parts are readily available to raise it lower, etc. etc.

In the rear you might find a lowering shackle, which would be easy. 3" of travel should be enough. Just make sure the shocks don't bottom out themselves. And use a bump stop of some sort so the axle doesn't contact the frame.

Hope that might help you.

Doug

 

Thanks DW, I'll mention that to my guy at the shop who is doing the work, after I find the right size wheels and tires, he looked at it today and said no problem working with what is there now, but yes, cutting or getting new springs.

He also stated no issues with the alignment or front end issues, he'll take of that too, all they due is front end and truck suspensions. Fingers crossed.

 

No I have no issues hitting while driving or going over bumps. The tires are very close when going up the driveway while turning the wheels. I am planning to bring the front wheels in another 1/4" but I have to clean up the upper control arm so it clears the inside of the rim first.

Do you go to the Bellmore train station cruise on Friday nights?

 

The spacers seem to be fine, I have had no trouble with them. I got them online from EZAccessory | Wheel Adapters, Suspension Parts, Lug Nuts & More

I have about 3" and have no contact issues but I have air shocks in the rear so the travel is limited. The ride is good and if I have to put anything heavy in the bed I can pump them up.

If I had a soft shock in the back the rear center would hit the bed before the axle hits the frame. If you can C notch the frame it wouldn't hurt to do it. I may do that someday anyway.

 

I agree, anything more than 1" (approx half a coil) causes poor performance. My springs were cut 1.5 coils ( I think maybe 2) and it was not good. Bottomed out and a terrible ride. I bought new 2" drop springs for $180 and it rides excellent!

 

Let the voting begin

Measured all my offsets today, now can't decide which would look better,

20"x10" rims in the rear and 18"x8" rims up front or 18" rims all around, same withes.

Trying to get used to the rake with bigger in back, kind of like same height and a more level stance, but, looking at trucks online, those 20" rims in the rear are hot, now won't be able to sleep all winter.

Smallello, Yes, regular at Bellmore.

 

New Question, after hours measuring backspaces and clearances on the truck and online finding right size rims and tires, here's we're I stand.

Buying 18x7" 4.25 backspace rims for front, that will give me 2 3/4" from rotor, rotor to fender is 5".

2 size tires will work, 215/45R18 have a section width of 8.2", this leaves me roughly 1 3/4" between tire and fender, height of these tires are 25.6"

225/50R18 have a section width of 9.1", this leaves me roughly 1 1/4" from inside of fender, height of these tires are 27" [more on that in a second]

Rear rims are 18X9" 5" backspace, 7" to inside of bed and 7" to fender, so no issues with rear spacing, tires are going to be 265/45R18 section width 10 1/2" wide. 27.4" in height.

I would really like to go with the front tires that measure 27" height as to keep with the rears.

If I go with 255/R18 rears, this will drop the height to 27".

MY MAIN Question is this, anyone her have a lowered truck, with those front measurements, would like to know if I'm going to have any rubbing issues with the fenders on turns and bumps, truck will be lowered so about 2 to 3" of tire will be hidden.

Hope this all makes sense, thanks.

 

Rich, you could try this. raise the front of the truck, must support under the suspension so it stays compressed. Remove one wheel. Make a board or strap that is a little longer than 1/2 your wheel diameter. Drill 2 holes in it and mount it to two of the wheel studs on the trucks hub. Measure out from the center of the hub 1/2 the tire diameter and install a small block the correct size so it is the distance you mentioned from the fender. Now you can turn the wheel then rotate the hub and check all your clearances. If you want to check the inside clearances mount a block to the other side of the strap.

Here is a article wit photos. He uses a piece of angle aluminum for the strap and a piece of all thread instead of a block so it can be adjusted to different offsets.

Hope this helps.

Wheel And Tire Fitment Measuring Clearance Photo 6

 

Thanks, very helpful, problem is, hard to measure to see if it hit until lowered.

I made this template to help measure backspace and turning, doesn't hit anything inside when tape measures 5" in from template in either direction, just worried about fender when lowered.

 

Modified stock suspension, sits about 5 1/2 inches off the ground at the bottom of the running boards. I have about 3-4 inches of suspension travel. Unfortunately I haven't been able to drive it yet, but hopefully it will be running by early next summer.

 

Will still be 4 to 5" off the ground, safe there as long as I stay away from curbs

Had a Vette, know all about running low

 

Are the templates the size of the tire and rim, or just the rim?

When you say 4-5 inches off the ground where are you measuring that from?

 

You can definitely buy dropped spindles for the Chevy truck front suspension. Just have to try to figure out what year model yours is. I think the full size spindles give 2 1/2" or 3" of drop. They make the accompanying springs in 1", 2" and 3" drop, as well. Check with Summit Racing or Jeg's for the best price.

You can flip the rear axle on top of the springs, but you'll definitely need to C notch the frame, and raising the bed floor is recommended. The center section of the rear end is much higher than the axle tubes.

How to Raise the Bed Floor - Classic Trucks Magazine

My Facebook friend, Mike Briggs, did a great article on raising the bed in Classic Trucks. Fire up the torch & welder! Hope this helps!

 

That template is the size of the new tire and rim 26".

I have 7" now between running board support on battery side and ground, this is the lowest part of the truck up front, rear isn't an issue.

smallello, your tire looks like it's inside the fender, what measurement do you have between inside of fender and tire?

56 Big Window, thanks, the front we will see and play with, the rear is fine, I have 7" of travel now in the rear between top of rear and bed floor, my spring guy said no problem lowering it 2 to 3", unless loading up the bed with stuff, 3 to 4" of travel will be fine, except for an occasional beach chair wrapped in cashmere, nothing will see this bed floor

I will remove the front tire again today, take the template 4" out from the hub as is there is a tire and raise it 3" and see what that looks like, didn't think to do this the first time, duh.

 

That is what I was attempting to say. If need be you could remove the spring so you could raise the suspension to the ride height you will have after lowering.