engine warm, still no start
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 385
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From: Salem Oregon
engine warm, still no start
After parking my truck for a while to perform some work after getting caught at a rest area and staying the night till the engine cooled down and would restart... I have put in a simple fuel pump that pumps fuel through the mech pump to prime, replaced the fuel return line assembly and fixed those leaks, changed fuel filter, and turned up the fuel adjustment screw a bit (still needs turned up a bit more since the IP swap).
I thought the leaky return line assembly was the issue, now I don't think so.
I have let the IP and injectors soak with ATF and run, just put about 5 gallons in the tank to give it about a 3/4 fill.
Sitting at a store parking lot hoping the engine will start soon. ..
Thoughts?
I thought the leaky return line assembly was the issue, now I don't think so.
I have let the IP and injectors soak with ATF and run, just put about 5 gallons in the tank to give it about a 3/4 fill.
Sitting at a store parking lot hoping the engine will start soon. ..
Thoughts?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,383
Likes: 847
From: Mi'kma'ki
pour about a cups worth of lukewarm water over the ip.she'll probably start right up and take ya home.fairly common issue when the fss goes bad.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-6-2-6-9-7-3-5-7-6-5-/221299564411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33867b5f7b&vxp=mtr
edit,yeah it could also mean something else internally is wrong with the ip too and it's needs to be reman.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-6-2-6-9-7-3-5-7-6-5-/221299564411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33867b5f7b&vxp=mtr
edit,yeah it could also mean something else internally is wrong with the ip too and it's needs to be reman.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Salem Oregon
It is a remanfactured IP off the 6.9 because the 7.3 IP died on Friday the 13th a bit back.
I believe I have a few dead plugs, an initial splash on the IP did nothing, the rest of the bottle and 15 seconds overall on the plugs that are working and it finally came to life.
With the ignition on I disconnected the wire on the IP Solenoid and put it back on, its clicking right by the sound.
Think I'm going to take the top of the IP off and see if its gummed up in a bit after I run some errands and the engine cools some.
I believe I have a few dead plugs, an initial splash on the IP did nothing, the rest of the bottle and 15 seconds overall on the plugs that are working and it finally came to life.
With the ignition on I disconnected the wire on the IP Solenoid and put it back on, its clicking right by the sound.
Think I'm going to take the top of the IP off and see if its gummed up in a bit after I run some errands and the engine cools some.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Salem Oregon
With the engine off and home, i pushed back on the accelerator assembly on the IP and got a hiss if air... did it a few for more hisses of air but the lessened with each push of the accelerator...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,383
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From: Mi'kma'ki
glow plugs are not needed at all (not even for a semi second) on a fully warmed diesel.you could unhook the system completely and it should still instant start.
id say if splashing the ip with a whole bottle of water and it started,means it's likely time for a reman ip if your pretty sure the fss is working fine.
id say if splashing the ip with a whole bottle of water and it started,means it's likely time for a reman ip if your pretty sure the fss is working fine.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 385
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From: Salem Oregon
glow plugs are not needed at all (not even for a semi second) on a fully warmed diesel.you could unhook the system completely and it should still instant start.
id say if splashing the ip with a whole bottle of water and it started,means it's likely time for a reman ip if your pretty sure the fss is working fine.
id say if splashing the ip with a whole bottle of water and it started,means it's likely time for a reman ip if your pretty sure the fss is working fine.
As much as I think I do need a new IP and injectors, I want to try the little things as I can't afford a remanufactured IP and injectors right now and wont for at least a few weeks or even a month...
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 35
From: Virginia
I think splashing cold or warm water on the IP is to cool down the fuel cut off solenoid.
The solenoid can just fail, fail only when it is hot, or will not work when hot.
From this website:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-6-2-6-9-7-3-5-7-6-5-/221299564411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item33867b5f7b
"If this solenoid fails you may experience:
The solenoid can just fail, fail only when it is hot, or will not work when hot.
From this website:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-6-2-6-9-7-3-5-7-6-5-/221299564411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item33867b5f7b
- Truck will not start
- Truck will not start hot
- Truck quits when it gets hot "
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Salem Oregon
Maybe it is the solenoid although I was able to cycle the solenoid when hot, maybe there is something blocking. I have the old IP still and will swap the solenoid when I get home from work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 35
From: Virginia
This solenoid is just one of several possibilities.
Low engine compression can be a cause. Before replacing parts you should have your compression checked. An engine that will not hold the truck on a steep incline, while off and in gear (manual), most likely has compression problems.
Another thing you can check is your ignition switch while the switch is in the start position.
Place a test light on the back side of fuel solenoid (FS) (while connector is connected to FS and turn the key on "run"- test light should light.
Now, while watching the test light, try to start the engine by turning the ignition switch fully to "start". The test light should not go out or flicker while the switch is in the start position. If it does you have an intermittent break in the ignition switch circuit.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 35
From: Virginia
Do you have a diesel?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,945
Likes: 13
If the cold water trick works, it is a strong indicator of a worn head / rotor. These things are typical after a few thousand miles on a cheap rebuild. Never heard of the FSS getting hot and not working, but i dont suppose it is impossible.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 385
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From: Salem Oregon
This solenoid is just one of several possibilities.
Low engine compression can be a cause. Before replacing parts you should have your compression checked. An engine that will not hold the truck on a steep incline, while off and in gear (manual), most likely has compression problems.
Another thing you can check is your ignition switch while the switch is in the start position.
Place a test light on the back side of fuel solenoid (FS) (while connector is connected to FS and turn the key on "run"- test light should light.
Now, while watching the test light, try to start the engine by turning the ignition switch fully to "start". The test light should not go out or flicker while the switch is in the start position. If it does you have an intermittent break in the ignition switch circuit.
Low engine compression can be a cause. Before replacing parts you should have your compression checked. An engine that will not hold the truck on a steep incline, while off and in gear (manual), most likely has compression problems.
Another thing you can check is your ignition switch while the switch is in the start position.
Place a test light on the back side of fuel solenoid (FS) (while connector is connected to FS and turn the key on "run"- test light should light.
Now, while watching the test light, try to start the engine by turning the ignition switch fully to "start". The test light should not go out or flicker while the switch is in the start position. If it does you have an intermittent break in the ignition switch circuit.
This 7.3 I believe has more compression than the 6.9 I had in, or at least it has tons more power. Step on the accelerator and it takes off, really flies down the freeway and tons more power than the 6.9 but then I was burning a lot of oil in the 6.9 and some coolant.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Salem Oregon
I have found on ebay for about $675 a rebuilt IP and rebuilt Injectors.
Going to start selling parts from the donor truck to hopefully fund the new parts and other thingds it needs. Got a turbo that I'll put up for sale plus other parts, got a good radiator and more from a 1990 F250.
Going to start selling parts from the donor truck to hopefully fund the new parts and other thingds it needs. Got a turbo that I'll put up for sale plus other parts, got a good radiator and more from a 1990 F250.