Need help with exhaust
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
Likes: 1
Need help with exhaust
The exhaust manifold "donuts" have burned out. I do not have access to a lift nor anyway to elevate the truck. Some of the exhaust flange nuts have deteriorated. I plan on cutting my exhaust pipes before the muffler (dual exhausts) and then pull the exhaust manifolds so that I can get to the nuts and get them off somehow.
If I do that, what would be the best way to reconnect the exhaust pipe to the muffler and tailpipe.
I have looked at exhaust connectors and there seems to be lots of them out there.
What do you suggest so that I will not have a leaky exhaust.
thanks
buster
If I do that, what would be the best way to reconnect the exhaust pipe to the muffler and tailpipe.
I have looked at exhaust connectors and there seems to be lots of them out there.
What do you suggest so that I will not have a leaky exhaust.
thanks
buster
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
I don't know if that would be the best way to approach this. Depending on what truck/engine combo you have, I would to expect to break at least a couple of bolts when trying to remove the manifolds. The FE engine family (360-390) is notorious for breaking the top manifold bolts.
Tell us what truck/engine you've got and we might be able to give you some ideas on how to do this.
To answer your actual question though, I would use this style of clamp to rejoin the pipes.
Tell us what truck/engine you've got and we might be able to give you some ideas on how to do this.
To answer your actual question though, I would use this style of clamp to rejoin the pipes.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
Likes: 1
It is a 74 f100 with a 302. Breaking a bolt into the heads is not something I want to do. I have looked at walker connectors that look good, simiiliar to what you are showing.
I am going to get some blaster penetrant and soak it for a few days and somewhat gently try to loosen the bolts.
Maybe I should heat them also.
Thanks for your suggestion
I am going to get some blaster penetrant and soak it for a few days and somewhat gently try to loosen the bolts.
Maybe I should heat them also.
Thanks for your suggestion
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 64
From: Billings, MT
You should not have to cut pipes at all. Also I've never seen a ford truck use a gasket on the pipe to manifold joint. Donut gaskets are a chevy thing. I think you need to pinpoint where the leak is first. If it is at the pipe/manifold joint soak the nuts/studs in penetrating oil and try your best. You should be able to let the pipe down out of the way.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
This is a 390, but you get the idea. In the first picture you can see the manifold is machined for a doughnut.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 64
From: Billings, MT
Ah, all my dealings have been with 351ms and 400s, which use a flare
and 5.0/5.8 and 4.9 in later trucks, which use a flare and no gasket also
and 5.0/5.8 and 4.9 in later trucks, which use a flare and no gasket also
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Big Sky Country
I never said "not stock" , I was referring to oem......of course you can build power from the 351/400
My only point was it's not a hp/torque monster "outta the box" like an early FE
My only point was it's not a hp/torque monster "outta the box" like an early FE
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